Alpine Rock Climbing

Lesson Objectives

After reading this page, students should be able to:

• View examples of alpine rock climbs

• Understand climbing techniques (and jargon) used in rock climbing 

• Identify the proper locations to connect to an anchor (shelf or masterpoint) with a personal anchor or clove hitch

• Connect to a horizontal or vertical fixed line with a prusik

• Pass protection on a fixed line

• Understand scrambling on 3rd and 4th class terrain 

Rock climbing is an integral part of many popular alpine climbs in the Pacific Northwest. Alpine Rock climbing is a little different from rock climbing at the gym or crag, although similar techniques are used. Alpine Rock Climbing refers to routes farther from civilization that require many of the technical, physical, and mental aspects of rock climbing involved in sport and crag climbing, in addition to alpine route-finding or glacier climbing skills and equipment.

Climbing movement technique refers to the physical practice of moving on rock, snow, or ice with the use of footholds and handholds. There are many factors that contribute to movement such as endurance, mental stamina and fortitude, physical ability, body's range of motion, balance, proprioception, and many other factors.

Climbing Technique Tips

Move purposefully, safely,  smoothly, and efficiently. Take a minute to consider the route before climbing. Practice body awareness and proprioception on and off the wall. Allow weight to rest mostly on your leg muscles to avoid arm fatigue. Bring your hips close to the center and distribute your weight. Keep three points of contact when climbing. Always gently check that a hold is stable before placing full pressure. New climbers often attempt to climb quickly to complete the route, which usually results in poor technique and fatigue. It is recommended that new climbers move at a moderate pace and focus on efficient, safe progress.

Jargon note: The greater climbing community often uses a variety of slang words, or jargon. This can be a barrier to many new climbers. We will use plain language as much as possible, but we want to explain the jargon as well so you are prepared in the real world. The BCEP Committee has assembled a Glossary with the most used climbing jargon. It is recommended to read through that if you have questions about the language used below. 

Footholds

Below are a few of the most common footholds you will experience as a beginner climber.

Additional Resources

"Climbing Technique: Footwork" by VDiffClimbing

"Nine Basic Types of Climbing Handholds" by Stewart Green

Any time you are at the top of a pitch, within a body length of an edge, or when on the ground but there is a possibility that you could be pulled off balance, you must be tied into the anchor. What is an anchor? An anchor is a strong, safe system by which the climber is secured to the rock, snow, or ice. In rock climbing, anchors are built using two metal bolts drilled into rock or three piece of trad gear (e.g., cams, nuts, hexes). Below, you will learn about the two most common ways to attach to an anchor safely. Additionally, you will learn which part of the anchor is the connection point. Please note that you are not required to know how to construct any of the anchors described below. You are only responsible for understanding how to attach to them safely.

Attaching to an Anchor:

Personal Protection Leash, or Personal Anchor System (PAS) - Personal protection (aka "Personal Pro") leashes are used to attach the climber to the anchor any time a fall is possible. Double-length nylon runners are typically used as leashes. If using a nylon runner, tie an overhand knot at roughly 1/3 of the length and another knot at 2/3 of the length. The knots are used to limit the movement of carabiners when attaching to the anchor. To attach the leash to your harness, girth hitch it to the two hard points (the same tie in points as the rope). Do not attach the leash to your belay loop. Use a medium locking carabiner to attach the leash to the anchor. 

Note: When attached to an anchor using a nylon runner, be very careful to not climb above the anchor. Unlike a dynamic climbing rope that stretches to slow your fall, nylon runners are considered static. If you fall from above the anchor, your body and the anchor will experience significant force potentially causing injury or damage to the anchor.

Clove Hitch - An alternative way to attach to an anchor is to clove hitch the rope to the anchor using a medium locking carabiner. Review the clove hitch video here. The anchor diagram below shows an example of a clove hitch attachment to an anchor.

An Alternate Anchor Configuration - The Quad

Occasionally, you will encounter an alternative anchor configuration known as a "quad" anchor. This is especially popular on sport climbing routes with two bolts at an anchor station. Quad anchors do not have a standard shelf. All gear including the belay device and your personal protection goes on the strands between the two overhand knots. It is critical that you attach gear, including your protection, to 2 to 3 strands. Do not clip carabiners to all four strands. If you clip into all four strands, you can be completely detached from the anchor should one anchor point fail. Learn more about the Quad here.

Fixed-Line Travel

On potentially dangerous 3rd and 4th class terrain (and occasionally on low 5th class vertical terrain), your climb leader may set a fixed-lined. Fixed-lines are climbing ropes fixed to the start and finish of a traverse or top of a climbing pitch. Climbers attach themselves to the rope using a prusik hitch or "lobster claws" to belay themselves. Fixed-lines are used where falls are unlikely, but consequences of falls are high.  There are two types of fixed-lines: isolated and non-isolated. Fixed-line types also dictate how the climber attaches to the line. Isolation refers to how the line is fixed to the rock, snow, or ice using a carabiner. It either flows freely through each carabiner (non-isolated) like the image on the bottom left or fixed to each carabiner like the image on the bottom right. Climb leaders will select the best method and instruct the climb team how to attach to the fixed-line. 

Attaching Using a Prusik Hitch (Non-Isolated Lines)

To connect to a fixed-line with a Prusik hitch, tie your accessory cord around the rope and clip it to your belay loop using two locking carabiners opposite and apposed. Review the Prusik hitch here. Always remember to keep the Prusik hitch ahead or above you on a climb. Do not climb past your Prusik! We like to backup the Prusik with the personal protection leash and a locking carabiner. Girth hitch the sling through both hard points on your harness and clip a locking carabiner onto the rope below your Prusik.

To pass protection with your Prusik, push the accessory cord through the gate of the carabiner first. Then, slide or pull the Prusik through the carabiner. This can be tricky while wearing gloves. Be sure to practice this in person during your BCEP breakouts. 

After passing the protection with your Prusik you can then unlock your personal pro, unclip it and re-clip above the protection you are passing and re-lock it. 

Attaching Using Lobster Claws, aka Via Ferrata (Isolated Lines)

To connect to a fixed-line using lobster claws, tie two personal protection leashes using both of your slings. Girth hitch the leashes to your harness hard points. Add a medium locking carabiner to each leash. You will attach to the rope with both locking carabiners. 

To pass protection, unlock and disconnect only one of the carabiners and move it to the other side of the protection. Lock the carabiner again. Then, unlock the other carabiner and move it to the other side of the protection. Lock the second carabiner. Repeat this each time you encounter protection. Be sure to always have one carabiner locked to the rope. Never disconnect both at the same time. 

Alpine Scrambles, on snow or rock, requires the use of both hands and feet, but usually not a rope. Scrambling falls into Class 3 in the Yosemite Decimal System of climbing difficulties.

As time wears on the mountain, the peaks slowly are weathered away. The rock fragments are a part of the terrain for ascending and descending mountains. These rock fragments are Talus, Scree, and Boulders.

Being safe and communicative with team members is important in this terrain. When a rock descends down the mountain in the direction of a teammate, alert loudly, "Rock!" This can help someone who is further below, as descending rocks can quickly pick up speed. The aid of trekking poles can be helpful for some when descending talus and scree fields.