Belaying
To "belay" is to control the rope that is tethered to a climber and act as part of the safety system to catch them if they fall. The climber entrusts the belayer with their life, so it is a responsibility to be taken seriously. The belayer must use good belay technique and remain focused on their climber at all times to ensure their safety.
Lesson Objectives
After reading this page students should be able to:
Demonstrate correct setup and use of belay device including proper hand technique for top-rope belay from the ground (PBUS)
Understand belay safety checks
Demonstrate proper voice command sequences while belaying
Demonstrate A-B-C positioning
Understand belay from above techniques
Universal Belay Method: Fundamental Principles
When the belayer is positioned at the bottom of a climb, an appropriate belay technique must adhere to the fundamental principles of belay. While there are a few acceptable techniques for doing so, the most fundamentally sound technique is known as Pull-Brake-Under-Slide, or P.B.U.S. It is important to give the right amount of slack. This is often accomplished by asking the climbers preferences first, then using tension and rope feedback to belay.
Regardless of the belay device or belay method of choice, all belaying follows three principles to maintain secure control of the rope.
Principle #1: The brake hand never leaves the rope
Letting go of the rope, even for a moment, opens an opportunity for catastrophe. If the climber falls in the instant that the brake strand is not being maintained, the accelerating fall and rapid movement of the rope will be almost impossible to arrest. Accordingly, one hand must be holding the brake strand of the rope at all times.
Principle #2: Hand transitions should happen in the position of maximum friction
As slack is taken in by the belayer, the brake hand needs to be repositioned on the rope. As with principle #1, imagine that the climber were to fall during the instant that the brake hand is being moved. It would be much easier to catch the fall if the device were already in the maximum braking position during that hand transition.
Principle #3: The hands and limbs should be positioned ergonomically
Pulling on the rope, pulling slack through a belay system, resting in the brake position, and sustaining a fall, all require the belayer to use their bodies and joints in a repetitive and sometimes strenuous way. It is important that hands and limbs take advantage of the natural ergonomics of the belay system so that stamina, reactivity, and grip strength are optimized.
Belayer Safety Checks and Communication
Belaying is a variety of techniques climbers use to create friction within a climbing system, particularly on a climbing rope, so that a falling climber does not fall very far.
After completing the belay and climbers safety checks, the belayer pulls all the slack.
Climber: That's me! (When the climber feels the tug of the rope)
Belayer: Belay on! (This lets the climber know they are ready)
Climber: Climbing! Signal they are ready to start climbing.
Belayer: Climb on! Signal they are ready for the climber.
Climber: Watch me, Take, or Tension! The climber is making a move in which they might fall or need a rest.
Belayer: (Takes in all the slack in the rope before saying) Gotcha!
Climber: Ready to lower! (Signal they are finished and ready to come down)
Belayer: Lowering! (Belayer lowers the climbers to the ground in a smooth, controlled fashion)
Climber: Off belay! (The climber is on the ground and would like the belayer to release the rope.)
Belayer: Belay off! (The belayer has removed the rope from the belay device)
Other commands
Climber: Slack! (The climber needs a little less tension in the rope )
Climber: Up Rope! (There is unnecessary slack in the rope and the belayer needs to remove most of it. This is different than "Take!," which is to take up all of the slack and hold tight)
Climber: Watch me! (The climber is concerned they may fall on the next few moves. The belayer should be ready to catch a fall)
Climber: Falling! (The climber is falling and putting sudden stress on the rope. Belayer should have the rope locked off and be braced for any shock.)
Climber: Rock! ( An object is falling from above, be careful, take cover, and do not look up.)
A-B-C Positioning
When a climber is significantly heavier than the belayer, the belayer may be lifted off the ground should the climber fall. In this instance, a ground anchor should be considered. The belayer will attach themselves to the anchor using the rope or runner. If a ground anchor is used, be sure to follow A-B-C positioning so each component is in a straight line.
A - Anchor: The anchor should be behind or under the belayer.
B - Belayer: The belayer should be in line between the anchor and the climbers first protection. In BCEP, this is likely the top-rope anchor.
C - Climber: The "climber" in this case, is the first piece of protection. This is the direction of pull should the climber fall.
Review the "Ground Anchor for Belayer" video for more information.
Final Testing Criteria: Belay
The final test will be scored based on the bolded items in order to obtain passing score:
The climber ties the rope into their harness with a rewoven figure eight knot.
Before the belayer puts the rope into the belay device they bring in the slack rope until they hear “that's me “ from the climber.
Belayer feeds the correct strand of rope through the belay device and locks the carabiner. The brake strand should be on the bottom.
Belayer performs a systems check with the climber:
Check harness buckles
Check knots are tied through the harness correctly and knot is tied correctly
Belay device is loaded correctly and carabiner is locked
Belayer communicates standard belay signals with the climber.
Belayer pulls rope through the belay device without removing the brake-hand from the rope.
Belayer demonstrates the ability to go into brake position to catch a fall.
When climber tops out, climber and belayer communicate proper lowering signals.
Belayer lowers the climber in a smooth, controlled manner.
Note: You're gonna do so much better than these folx! Don't worry!
Belaying From Above
Here are a few basic methods for belaying a follower from above. The same ABC principle should apply and you should still follow the same commands and AAC belay standards.
Seated snow belay
Hip Belay
Belaying off the harness from above (PBOS)
Key differences:
Belayer MUST be securely anchored and in proper ABC orientation
Belay device is flipped (teeth pointing up)
Pull/Brake/OVER/slide
Basic belay motion is flipped upside down!
These styles of belaying from above can be employed in 3rd and 4th class terrain as well as moderate snow. However, they are not be used in 5th class terrain. There are other methods for belaying from above that can be employed in 5th class terrain; however, they are beyond the scope of this course.
Knowledge Check
Please complete the required knowledge check before moving on:
FoH p.181-182
Chapter 10, Belaying, p.154-163, p .199
Chapter 19, Alpine Ice Climbing, "Belaying on Ice" p.445-447