Gear, Equipment, and Apparel
While mountaineering definitely requires knowledge, skill, and good judgement, having appropriate equipment and clothing is another important factor in safety, comfort, and success in the mountains.
Lesson Objectives
After reading this page students should be able to:
Assemble the gear that allows the student to participate in BCEP and Mazamas alpine climbs
Assemble the Ten Essentials
Understand the basics of layering and maintaining appropriate body temperature
Select and pack clothing that is appropriate for hot, cold, wet, and windy conditions
Be able to pack so that you are efficient during breaks
Describe gear that would be needed for an overnight alpine climb
Climbing Gear
Technical Climbing Gear
Students will need to purchase, rent, or borrow the following climbing gear to participate in BCEP activities. This gear will also enable you to participate in Mazamas climbs after graduation. For general gear related questions, please reach out to your team leader.
Please Note: You do not need to have everything before class starts. You may opt to wait for a team gear discussion with your team leader before purchasing gear. You may also reach out to the BCEP Committee (bcep_student_coord@mazamas.org) with gear related questions.
Also, you are not limited to the gear listed as examples in the spreadsheet below. There are various options for all of the required gear. However, we recommend you only purchase gear from reputable companies (i.e., if it’s sold at Mountain Shop, REI, Next Adventure, and Backcountry). Please don’t risk your safety to save a few dollars on cheap gear. If you have financial concerns, team leaders and assistants often have extra gear you may borrow. Wherever you purchase your gear, please make sure that it is CE or UIAA certified!
Gear night! Mazamas will host “Gear Night” at the Mountain Shop before class starts. BCEP leaders and assistants will be available to answer questions and recommend gear. The Mountain Shop also offers discounts to BCEP students. An email with more details will be sent to all students.
Required Gear for Technical Snow Session
Snow covered climbs will require additional gear to be considered. The following gear is essential for snow climbs and for your Basic Snow Skills Technical Session in addition the technical gear listed above. There are many Local Shops to rent crampons, mountaineering boots, backpacks, and ice axes/tools. In sessions and on climbs, you'll be introduced to gear not included in this list such as pulleys, pickets, and other anchor systems. This gear is more advanced than what is taught in BCEP, but is great to familiarize yourself with.
Crampons
Crampon considerations include material, fit style, and purpose
Styles
Step-in: toe and heel welts (most secure fit)
Hybrid: a heel welt and toe strap
Strap-on: no welts (most versatile)
Material
Steel: durable, longer-lasting, heavier than aluminum
Aluminum: not durable if you need to travel over rock, not great for ice, lightweight
Purpose
Glacier travel: downward pointing teeth for the snow/ice below you or for steep terrain
Ice-climbing: front-pointing teeth for ice in front of the toes
Mountaineering Boots
Mountaineering boots differ from standard hiking boots in stiffness, crampon compatibility, and insulation. Mountaineering boots will typically have stiff shanks in the soles. These are typically 3/4 to full length.
Mountaineering boots also have heel and/or toe welts for crampon attachment. Three season boots are lighter and less insulated, while four season boots are heavier and more insulated.
Ice Axe
Ice axe considerations are length, weight, and pick material. A general mountaineering axe is recommended. Rental shops will help you size the axe correctly.
Backpack
Backpacks for climbing come in a lot of styles. Important considerations are:
Size: 20-30L for day climbs, and larger for overnight trips
Ice axe loops
Suspension for heavier loads
Ability to carry rope
The Ten Essentials
The Ten Essentials are the very basic needs anyone venture on trails should carry. Read more about each item here.
Navigation
Light Source
Sun Protection
Emergency Shelter
Fire Starter
Extra Food
First Aid
Extra Insulation
Extra Water
Knife
Apparel
When in the mountains, you need sufficient clothing and equipment to be comfortable and safe. What constitutes “sufficient” is subjective. It is different for each person and takes experience to define. Learning how to manage your layering system is a skill that is learned through trial. Proper layering is crucial to regulating body temperature. Insulating layers can help retain much-needed body heat, but too much warmth can lead to excessive moisture due to perspiration. As Freedom of the Hills states in "Clothing", "Prolonged periods of dampness, even in moderately cool temperatures, can cause your body's core temperature to fall, possibly triggering hypothermia, a frequent cause of death in the mountains". Well thought-out layering systems allow climbers to achieve the right balance of warmth and breathability throughout the day.
BCEP team hikes allow students the chance to utilize layering systems to see what works well and what doesn't. A "Layer Break" is when a team stops to take off or put on clothing as conditions change. Packing a bag efficiently so that layers are readily available can mean less time spent during breaks looking for a layer at the bottom of the pack. Take time to practice packing with layering systems in mind.
Note: NO COTTON! While cotton is comfortable, it does not maintain warmth when wet and takes too long to dry. This can easily lead to hypothermia. Your mountaineering apparel should be made of wool or other synthetic material.
Tip: on hikes and climbs, opt for starting off cold rather than comfortable. As you start hiking, you will become warm quickly. By starting cold you may avoid the need to stop for a layer break early in the climb. Learning to regulate your body heat can be less of an ongoing battle once you learn to manage your layers. The layering concept for clothing also applies to hands.
Infographic by David Posada
To illustrate some core concepts about maintaining core body temperature, dressing & layering for inclement weather, and hypothermia prevention etc.
Packing for an Overnight Alpine Climb
Gear for overnight activities may vary from one climb to the next. The gear you need depends on the season, current conditions, and the forecasted weather. Climb Leaders will tell you which items to bring on the prospectus for Mazama climbs and some gear may be considered group gear.
Tent and Stakes
Sleeping Bag
Sleeping Pad
Camp Stove
Water Filtration
Warmer clothing
Warmer clothing may be needed for cooler temperatures at night.
How to Pack a Climbing Backpack
Perhaps surprisingly, packing a climbing backpack is a skill that requires practice and system development. BCEP offers a great opportunity to dial in packing systems that work well for you and your gear. Here are some things to consider when packing your gear:
What gear will you need ready access to throughout the hike? Snacks, water, rain layers, gloves? Pack those in places you can grab quickly or, ideally, without taking off your pack.
Is your gear's weight distributed evenly? Make sure your pack is sized and fitted correctly to avoid unnecessary strain on your back.
Are sharp thing covered? Your ice axe and crampons can tear your gear. Make sure the sharp points are covered sufficiently.
Is it waterproof? Be sure to bring a backpack rain cover or trash bag to cover your gear in case of rain or snow.
Check out the video below for more info.
Knowledge Check
Please complete the required knowledge check before moving on:
Chapter Two, Clothing and Equipment
Chapter Two, Clothing and Equipment "Essential Equipment"
Chapter Two, Clothing and Equipment, "Clothing", "Fabrics", "Layering", and "Footwear". p. 17-31