Belaying

To "belay" is to control the rope that is tethered to a climber and act as part of the safety system to catch them if they fall. The climber entrusts the belayer with their life, so it is a responsibility to be taken seriously. The belayer must use good belay technique and remain focused on their climber at all times to ensure their safety. 

Lesson Objectives

After reading this page students should be able to:

• Demonstrate correct setup and use of belay device including proper hand technique for top-rope belay from the ground (PBUS)

• Understand belay safety checks

• Demonstrate proper voice command sequences while belaying

• Demonstrate A-B-C positioning 

• Understand belay from above techniques

Regardless of the belay device or belay method of choice, all belaying follows three principles to maintain secure control of the rope.

Principle #1: The brake hand never leaves the rope

Letting go of the rope, even for a moment, opens an opportunity for catastrophe. If the climber falls in the instant that the brake strand is not being maintained, the accelerating fall and rapid movement of the rope will be almost impossible to arrest. Accordingly, one hand must be holding the brake strand of the rope at all times.

Principle #2: Hand transitions should happen in the position of maximum friction

As slack is taken in by the belayer, the brake hand needs to be repositioned on the rope. As with principle #1, imagine that the climber were to fall during the instant that the brake hand is being moved. It would be much easier to catch the fall if the device were already in the maximum braking position during that hand transition.

Principle #3: The hands and limbs should be positioned ergonomically

Pulling on the rope, pulling slack through a belay system, resting in the brake position, and sustaining a fall, all require the belayer to use their bodies and joints in a repetitive and sometimes strenuous way. It is important that hands and limbs take advantage of the natural ergonomics of the belay system so that stamina, reactivity, and grip strength are optimized.

Belaying is a variety of techniques climbers use to create friction within a climbing system, particularly on a climbing rope, so that a falling climber does not fall very far.

Other commands

Climber: Slack! (The climber needs a little less tension in the rope )

Climber: Up Rope! (There is unnecessary slack in the rope and the belayer needs to remove most of it. This is different than "Take!," which is to take up all of the slack and hold tight)

Climber: Watch me! (The climber is concerned they may fall on the next few moves. The belayer should be ready to catch a fall)

Climber: Falling! (The climber is falling and putting sudden stress on the rope. Belayer should have the rope locked off and be braced for any shock.)
Climber: Rock! ( An object is falling from above, be careful, take cover, and do not look up.)

Here are a few basic methods for belaying a follower from above. The same ABC principle should apply and you should still follow the same commands and AAC belay standards. 

1. Seated snow belay

2. Hip Belay

3. Belaying off the harness from above (PBOS)

   1. Key differences:

      1. Belayer MUST be securely anchored and in proper ABC orientation

      2. Belay device is flipped (teeth pointing up) 

      3. Pull/Brake/OVER/slide

      4. Basic belay motion is flipped upside down!

These styles of belaying from above can be employed in 3rd and 4th class terrain as well as moderate snow. However, they are not be used in 5th class terrain. There are other methods for belaying from above that can be employed in 5th class terrain; however, they are beyond the scope of this course.