This section covers the basic overhaead cast for fly fishing.
Fly casting is not about strength, but about timing and practice. When you are fly casting it is important to keep the following points in mind:
You are casting the line, not the lure at the end of the line.
You are transferring your energy to the rod and the rod casts the line.
A good backcast is just as important as a good forward cast.
The line will go where the rod tip points!
Safety
Always wear sunglasses and a broad-billed cap while casting. They provide protection from the sun and serve as a shield to prevent eye or head injuries.
Grip
Using the correct grip on the rod is critical to casting success. Hold the rod on the grip above the reel with the reel hanging beneath the rod. Your thumb MUST be on top of the grip pointing down the rod shaft toward your target. Keep the rod butt under, and in line with, your forearm so the rod becomes an extension of your arm. Lock your wrist and bend your arm at the elbow. Strive for all your movements to be smooth.
Foot Position [Stance}
Stand with your feet shoulder width apart with the foot on the same side as the line hand slightly forward, aiming at your target. Always look at where you want the end of your fly line to land.
Casting Stance Mistakes
Wrist bent – the rod is an extension of your arm and the rod tip will follow and exaggerate each movement. Using only your wrist to cast will quickly tire you and cause a poorly executed cast. Your arm has much more power and strength when casting.
Arm held too high – you tire quickly and have a poor cast.
Arm going up and down – the rod tip does not move evenly when your hand is not kept in an even plane. This causes a sloppy and ineffective cast.
Grip from above
Grip from side
Check your grip and stance before each cast.
Strip two to three rod lengths of line out in front of you plus a few more feet.
Hold the line in loose coils in your off hand. These coils will be pulled from your fingers as you complete your forward cast.
Check for clearance for your backcast. You need the same amount of distance for your backcast as for your forward cast.
Backcast
Begin with your rod tip horizontal near the water.
Bend your arm at the elbow, keeping your wrist locked, so the rod becomes an extension of your arm.
Slowly lift your rod tip to eliminate slack and helps free the line from the water’s surface tension.
Accelerate the rod back to just past vertical. [Rod tip is just past your shoulder.]
Stop abruptly and pause for just a moment. [This lets the line straighten out behind you.]
Watch your backcast over your shoulder.
Forward Cast
The forward cast begins when your line is almost uncurled behind you. [When you feel a tug.]
Accelerate the rod forward stopping abruptly when the rod is at eye level.
Let the line go and as the line straightens out over the water, lower the rod tip so it is pointed toward the water.
The goal is to have the line straightened out in front of you with all of its energy spent, about a foot above the water’s surface. This allows your fly to settle naturally on the water with minimal disturbance.
There are a number of instructional videos produced by fly fishing manufacturers and others that demonstrate the basic overhand cast, and more.
Check your stance – comfortable, legs shoulder width apart, line hand foot slightly forward, thumb on top, grip not too tight, rod tip down.
“Throw the line up over the trees!”- quick pick up, crisp hitchhiking motion, rigid wrist, hand in a level plane, turn to follow the stroke.
Accelerate to an abrupt STOP – stop the rod at just past vertical.
Watch your backcast – start to bring the rod forward a split second before the line uncurls.
“Flick that apple off the rod tip!” – stop the rod just past your shoulder, rigid wrist, hand in a level plane.
Finish your cast - lower your casting arm and rod, the line will lay out straight, over your target
You did it!
Wrist casting – the most common problem. Using this weak part of your body tires you quickly.
Casting too much line – a very common problem. Limit the amount of line to 30 to 40 feet maximum. Control is more important than distance.
Line slamming into the water on the forward cast – caused by using too wide of a casting arc and not stopping your cast high enough (between the one and two o’clock position) and following through. Aim higher and stop your forward cast sooner.
Line collapsing on the backcast – your wrist is bent and there isn’t enough power on the pickup. If the line hits the ground on the backcast, your cast will be unsuccessful.
Not enough power on the pickup – really throw the line up in the air on your backcast to make the rest of the cast work.
Whip-cracking sound on the forward cast – caused by starting your forward cast before your backcast is straightened. Follow your cast backward and wait one second on the abrupt stop before bringing your cast forward.
Introduction [overview of history and how it differs from spincasting]
Equipment [includes an overview of the rod, reel, line]
Previous Section: Flies and Knots [covers different types of flies and knots to assemble your rig]
Casting [breaks down the steps to a successful cast]
Educator Packet [activities to teach the Fish Iowa! Fly Fishing Basics unit]