Fly Fishing Basics
Equipment & Assembly
Fly Fishing Equipment
The equipment for fly-fishing is quite different from that of spincasting. Fly-fishing components are similar in name, but there the similarities end. This section provides an overview of fly-fishing equipment.
Rod
The fly rod delivers the energy from the casting angler to propel the fly line. When it comes to fly rods the old adage, “You get what you pay for,” is especially true.
Fly rods usually are made of bamboo, fiberglass, or graphite. Some traditional fly fishers don’t believe that you are really fly fishing unless you use a split bamboo rod. There are still some very fine and expensive bamboo rods available, but today, most rods are made of graphite. Graphite rods generally are lighter than their fiberglass or bamboo counterparts.
It is critical to “balance” your outfit (e.g., use the correct weight fly line for your rod). Manufacturers label rods with the information you need to put together a “well balanced” outfit. Unfortunately, that information is not always located in the same place or written in the same format. An example of one of these codes would read, “G763.” This rod is graphite, seven feet six inches long, and it is intended for use with a three-weight line.
Keep in mind what type and size of flies you will be casting when selecting a rod. A six-weight rod is a good choice for most beginners. It is appropriate for catching most pan fish, yet it is diverse enough to present small flies delicately and heavy enough to cast large flies long distances. Fly rods are rated by the weight of the fly line they cast best. Weights range from 0 (aught), the lightest, through 14, the heaviest. Rods at either end of the range are considered “specialty” rods and not suitable for general fly fishing. Most trout rods range from about a four-weight (used for smaller waters and shorter casts) up to a six or seven-weight (used for longer casts and larger waters). A seven, eight, or nine-weight rod often is used for bass fishing. Rods heavier than eight or nine-weight generally are used in saltwater fishing for large fish such as tarpon, marlin, or even sharks.
Fly rods come in a variety of lengths, each designed to fit individual needs. Short rods (six to eight feet) work well for small brush lined creeks. If you fish large rivers, lakes, or from a boat or float tube where there is ample room, an eight or nine-foot rod makes longer casts more easily.
Modern rod manufacturers have a specific fly line that best fits their rods. More information line and selecting a rod is included later in this section.
Reel
Modern fly reels differ from spinning and spincasting reels because they have no release button, switch, or lever in order to release line from the reel. The angler pulls line out of the reel manually.
The fly fishing reel serves as a storage for the line when it is not being cast. Most of the time, fly line is simply lying on the ground beside the fly-fisher, or held in loose coils in the “off” hand.
Some fly fishing reels have a disc drag system, similar to a car’s brakes. These normally are used for large fish which make long runs. Many reels have an exposed rim that allows you to create your own drag on the line by pushing on the rim with the palm of your hand.
The reel also must balance with the rod and the line. Reel spool sizes vary greatly. Reel manufacturers list the capacity of their reels. For example, a reel might hold a double taper six-weight line and 100 yards of backing or a double taper seven-weight line and 60 yards of backing.
Line
Fly line is attached to the fly reel by a section of braided line called backing. The thick fly line is attached to the fine diameter leader and the leader in turn ends in an even finer diameter tippet.
Backing
The backing usually is made of braided nylon Dacron.TM It simply adds length to the fly line without adding too much bulk or cost. This added length is important when fishing for fish that tend to make long runs, such as larger carp. The amount of backing you choose depends on the size of your reel and the fighting characteristics of the type of fish you will be catching. For most fish 50 yards should be fine, but for fish that are known to make long runs , use 100 yards or more .
Fly Line
The line is the “heart” of fly fishing. It provides the weight for casting. Many types of fly line have been developed for ease of casting and greater efficiency. Fly line is made of PVC, plastic coated nylon, or Dacron.TM Fly lines are classified by their taper, weight, and density (in that order). In general, a floating fly line is the most basic form of fly line, but there are also intermediate (slow-sinking) and full-sinking variations of fly lines available.
Line weight is measured on a scale of aught (lightest) to 14 (heaviest). Lines in the four to 10 range are most common. Trout anglers commonly use lines between four and six-weight. Lines in the seven to nine range work well for bass.
Lines vary in thickness throughout the length of the fly line to accomplish different goals. For instance a level line does not change thickness, just as its name suggests. Level lines are priced economically because of the uniform thickness, but are very difficult to cast. A common mistake of a beginner fly fisher is to purchase a level line because of its cost, but then fail at fly casting because it’s too difficult to use.
A double taper line tapers at both ends. The midsection provides the weight for casting. The small eight to 12-foot tapered end provides the flexibility required for the delicate presentation of flies. It is a very versatile line that can be used with both wet and dry flies and generally is used for casting shorter distances. Since both ends are tapered, this line can be reversed after one end wears out so you get two lines for the price of one!
Weight forward line typically has a short, fine front taper, followed by a heavier body section that provides the weight for casting. The body section is in turn followed by a more slender section of line known as the shooting line. The weight in the forward part of this line helps the fly-fisher make long casts while the fine front taper aids in delicate presentation of flies. Weight-forward is the most common form of fly line.
Specialization of the fly line increases even more as the density of the line is changed. All profiles are available in lines that are meant to float on the water or in lines that are meant to sink. There are other specialty tapers for specific styles of fly fishing/specific fish as well (e.g., bass tapers, saltwater tapers, tapers designed for throwing streamers, tapers for throwing delicate presentations of dry flies).
In 1961, the American Fishing Tackle Manufacturers Association (AFTMA) introduced a code of marking all fly lines according to their different characteristics. The first series of letters stand for the line taper: level-L, weight forward-WF, and double taper-DT. The number is the line weight and the last letter is the density – floating (F) or sinking (S). So a manufacturer’s code stating WF5F is a weight forward, five weight, floating line.
Leaders
The leader is a length of tapered, fine diameter line that connects the fly line to the fly. It is usually made of monofilament and provides a nearly invisible connection between the fly and the line.
Leaders are normally tapered. The end with the largest diameter is attached to the fly line and is known as the butt. The butt is followed by the midsection and then the section to which the flies are tied, called the tippet. The leader should taper gradually down from the butt to the tippet.
Horsehair was the leader material used during the 19th Century until it was replaced with silk gut. Nylon monofilament was developed during World War II and it is still used today.
Leader material is measured in a system called the X size. The X rating of monofilament is a standard sized diameter. (The pound test rating varies between manufacturers.) No matter who the manufacturer, a 5X piece of tippet material is the same diameter while the pound test rating may vary (sometimes greatly).
A small tippet is not always better. A fly that is too large on a small tippet is difficult to cast and creates a stress point at the fly/leader connection. For example, a #8 wooly bugger attached to a 6X tippet won’t stay attached for long. Give some thought to the size flies you likely will be using and tie on your tippet accordingly before you go fishing. Usually a couple spare tippet spools are sufficient, one size above and one size below the size tied to your leader.
The tippet size you use is a matter of experience and choice. Choose a size too big and the fish may not take the fly; choose a size too small and it will likely break before you land the fish.
A good guide when choosing a tippet size is the “rule of four.” This means taking the size of your fly and dividing it by four to arrive at the tippet size. (e.g., A #16 fly divided by four equals a 4X tippet. A #20 fly divided by four equals a 5X tippet. ) Keep in mind, this is a general guideline. You may need to go larger or smaller based on your situation.
A wide variety of leaders are available. Most are made of monofilament. You can purchase continuous piece of line that tapers from the butt to the tippet or you can tie your own using gradually smaller diameters of monofilament until the desired tippet size is reached.
Selecting the Right Equipment
After having a basic understanding of the gear, how do you know what you need to get started? Which fly rod, reel, or line is best for your situation? While we will not recommend certain brands, here are a few scenarios to help guide your thoughts.
Scenario 1
Q: I'm new to fly fishing, I live in the Midwest, and I just bought a fly rod and reel for fishing my local farm ponds for bass and bluegill. What should I buy?
A: If your main target is bass and bluegill, you can't go wrong with a setup in the 4, 5, or 6 weight variety. For example, you might choose to buy a 9 foot, 5 weight, 4 piece fly rod and match it with a 5 weight reel and a WF-5-F fly line. Depending on what you plan on targeting more, you may lean lighter or heavier. A 6 weight would be more ideal for bass, and if your bass are really large, it wouldn't be a bad idea to even go with a 7 or 8 weight. However, if you hook into a bluegill with an 8 weight, it isn't quite as fun because it is a very stiff rod for a smaller fish.
Scenario 2
Q: I want to catch a bunch of trout in some of my small trout streams. The streams are very small, they have a lot of brush and tall grass around them, and the fish are very spooky. What should I buy?
A: Small-stream trout fishing is best done with a 2-4 weight fly rod, and if you have a lot of brush around, a shorter rod is ideal. While trout fishing on larger rivers might be ideal with a 5 or 6 weight fly rod, small streams that have spooky trout are best fished with a more delicate presentation that a lighter, smaller fly rod can provide. A 6 to 8 foot rod is probably the best height for smaller waters.
Scenario 3
Q: I want to catch trout and salmon on an upcoming trip to Alaska. What should I buy?
A: Depending on where you are targeting trout and salmon in Alaska, you may want a heavier setup. Make sure to talk to a local Alaska fly fishing shop or guide, and get their recommendations. Generally, a 9 foot, 7 or 8 weight rod is ideal for larger trout and salmon.
TakeMeFishing.org also provides more guidance for beginners when selecting Fly Fishing Gear.
Tackle Care and Storage
Tips for Tackle Care
Following are some important tips to remember:
Handling equipment carefully will provide years of trouble-free enjoyment. Always transport rods broken down and in their protective rod tubes.
When moving from spot to spot while fishing, attach the fly to the hook keeper (if provided) or hook the point inside the forward shroud that holds the reel foot. (Never place the hook into the grip.)
Reel in all slack so the rod remains straight but the fly line and/or leader are tight.
While walking, grip the rod so the reel is next to the front of your hand and the rod extends out the backside of your arm. This prevents catching the rod tip on brush or other obstructions because the rod follows whatever opening your body passes through.
Never lay the rod on the ground. Instead, stand it against a tree or large rock while taking a break.
Never let the fly reel come into contact with sand or gravel.
Always place your rod and reel under the windshield wiper of your vehicle when you first return from fishing, before getting out of your waders and packing other gear away. This prevents accidentally leaving your fly rod behind.
Periodically clean the fly line by running the working end through a rag soaked with fly line cleaner. Many cleaners are available just for this purpose. This will extend the life of your line and help maintain its performance (Check with your fly line manufacturer, as some fly lines do not need fly line cleaner to be properly maintained).
When disjointing the rod, grip the rod firmly with your hands (dry) close together on each side of the ferrule. Pull with each hand and gently twist the two sections at the same time. If the rod is stuck use a piece of tire inner tube to get a firmer grip on it.
Off-Season Tackle Storage
During the off season, remove the fly line from the reel, clean thoroughly, and hang in large, loose coils. Use a single twist-tie to prevent tangling. Leave a tag of the backing knotted to the fly line to distinguish which end is which.
Check the head of the fly line for cracks or other damage and clip off the old leader and any damaged fly line. The line’s performance will suffer if more than a foot of fly line is removed. Consider a new line in the case of a weight forward (WF) line or swap ends in the case of a double taper (DT) line.
Tie on a new leader at the beginning of the fishing season. Always store the line away from heat or sunlight.
Clean the reel by removing the spool (if removable) and soak both the frame and spool in a bowl of water containing mild dish soap. Allow it to soak overnight and then scrub all interior and exterior surfaces with an old toothbrush. Rinse it thoroughly and lay on a towel. Let the reel dry completely. Then make sure all screws and rivets are tight and lubricate moving parts with reel grease (as directed by manufacturer; some reels require no lubrication).
If the reel has an adjustable drag, set the drag knob to its lightest setting to avoid spring fatigue. Store it in an old clean sock.
Previous Section: Introduction [overview of history and how it differs from spincasting]
Equipment [includes an overview of the rod, reel, line]
Next Section: Flies and Knots [covers different types of flies and knots to assemble your rig]
Casting [breaks down the steps to a successful cast]
Educator Packet [activities to teach the Fish Iowa! Fly Fishing Basics unit]