Digitizer and LCD

To Start: remove the digitizer the same way you would remove the digitizer on any of the ipad device. Be careful for the bottom right side, that is where the cables are.

Using a spudger or razor, gently separate the digitizer from the backplate, if you are having trouble with this, go over the location again with the heat gun.

Small pieces of foam tape cover the top and bottom right-hand screws securing the LCD to the rear case.

Use tweezers to peel up and remove the rectangular piece of foam tape covering the top right LCD screw.

Remove the triangular tape covering the lower right LCD screw.

Remove the four 3.9 mm Phillips #000 screws securing the LCD to the rear case.

Use a pair of tweezers to peel up the small piece of tape connecting the LCD frame to the right speaker.

A thin strip of foam tape on the LCD frame is covering a piece of tape connecting the LCD to the panel beneath it. To proceed, you'll have to break and peel up some of the foam tape to expose the tape hidden beneath.

Use a pair of thin tweezers to pull up the top of the foam tape surrounding the LCD.

Be careful not to touch the LCD with the tweezers, as you may damage the display.

Use the tweezers to peel the foam tape up to expose the top of the LCD.

In the next few steps, you'll be sliding a spudger between the LCD and the metal backing plate to fully separate the LCD from the adhesive beneath.

Insert the flat end of a spudger between the LCD frame and the metal backing plate.

Be sure to get the spudger between the LCD frame and backing plate, and not beneath the plate.

Prying up on the plate will damage it, because it is screwed down to the rear case beneath the LCD.

Starting at the top right of the device, slide the spudger in between the LCD frame and metal backing plate, which will separate the adhesive as you push.

The goal is to separate the adhesive, not to pry the LCD up, so keep the pointed tip of the spudger as low as possible to prevent bending the LCD.

If inserting the spudger causes the corner of the LCD to bend up, repeat the steps with the guitar pick to further loosen the adhesive.

Lift the LCD up a couple inches from the rear case to ensure it's free from the adhesive.

Remove the following screws securing the LCD shield plate to the rear case of the iPad:

• • Two 2.6 mm Phillips #00

  • Thirteen 1.7 mm Phillips #00

  • One additional 1.7 mm Phillips #00 on some devices.

The iPad Mini 2nd Generation has less screws on this plate. See “Differences” section in this manual.

Remove the LCD shield plate from the iPad.

Remove the three 1.3 mm Phillips #00 screws securing the connector shield to the logic board.

Be sure to not substitute these three screws with any other screws, specifically the screws securing the LCD shield plate to the rear case of the iPad. Any slightly longer screws may strip the screw holes and result in irreparable damage to the logic board.

The iPad Mini 2nd Generation has a different plate here. See “Differences” section in this manual.

Use a plastic opening tool to gently pry the battery connector up from its socket on the logic board.

Be very careful to only pry up on the battery connector and not on the socket itself. If you pry up on the logic board socket, you may break the connector entirely.

Use a plastic opening tool to pry the LCD connector from its socket on the logic board.

Do not pry against the large IC next to the connector, or you may break it. Gently pry from the side of the connector as shown.

Lift and remove the LCD from the iPad Mini.

Use a plastic opening tool to gently pry the digitizer connector up from its socket on the logic board.

Be very careful to pry evenly on the connector, and not on the socket at all. The socket and connector are very delicate and if you damage either, your digitizer won't work.

Lift and remove the front panel from the iPad.