Workflow

Even though I had the plans to follow, there were no explicit instructions for how to get from point A to point B. Thus, my workflow was partially ad hoc, and several times along the way, I had to pivot and change my approach. Below I have redacted a general step by step process for cutting the parts, prefabricating the hardware, and assembling the structure. The plans are in the Google Drive Folder.

Aspire and milling:

1. Download .dxf files
2. Import them into an Aspire document. Make sure you have correctly set up the document (i.e. job dimensions, material thickness, etc.).
3. Select each vector and create the toolpath (profile, pocket, drill). See daily journal for details about which toolpath to use. I suggest creating a separate toolpath for each part in case you ever need to re-cut just one part. Consider what size bit is appropriate and check the depth of the hole. Add tabs where needed, but remember that you'll have to eventually sand them down, so use them sparingly.
4. Open the ShopBot software. This is where you will set the origin, z-height, and do anything related to moving the machine. The full ShopBot workflow is in the Google Drive folder. Don't forget to go through the spindle warm-up routine before starting.
5. Put the right bit into the collet and tighten using wrenches. Then, zero the z-axis using zero plate. Once finished, put the zero plate away. Home the x-axis and y-axis, and then decide where to put the origin (the bottom left corner of your material).
6. Drill material down to the spoil board of the table. Make sure the screws are not in the path of the bit because the bit does not know metal from HDPE when milling.
7. Reopen your Aspire files. Make any last minute modifications (i.e. tabs, drill depth, etc.). You can change the drill depth to .05 in. greater than the material thickness for profile toolpaths to ensure that the ShopBot cuts through all the way. It doesn't matter if the bit cuts into the spoil board as long as it doesn't go through the spoil board. After you've confirmed the toolpaths are correct (really important to double-check and triple-check), you are ready to send them over to the ShopBot software.
8. For toolpaths that use the same bit and that you want to cut in one run, merge them before exporting them. Directions for merging, exporting, and importing toolpaths are described in my daily journal.
9. When you are ready to cut, turn key, set frequency to ~225, and hit enter.
10. Keep a close eye on the machine during the cut and make sure it's not doing anything unpredicted. If you see anything odd, hit the spacebar to stop the spindle. In an EMERGENCY flip the red switch on the side of the machine.

POst-processes:

1. Some parts have too small of holes to drill using the ShopBot (these should have been marked with the vbit). To drill these holes precisely, use a drill press. A hand drill may also work, but the drill press allows you to drill a certain depth when the holes do not go all the way through the material.
2. Check plans for specific dimensions.
3. The method I used to drill holes that didn't go through the material is detailed along side pictures in my daily journal.
4. Take note of the special treatment of the Escapement Spacer Large, Winder, and Escapement Drum. These parts either have a side hole or slit.
5. Break the tabs and release the parts from the larger pieces of HDPE.
6. Sand the edges of the parts.

Hardware:

1. Mark the desired length on the tube/rod with a sharpie and caliper. For maximum precision color a section of the tube/rod with sharpie and use the tip of the caliper to scratch away at the length you want (see picture below).
2. When dealing with metal, it is important to practice good safety habits. Always wear eye protection and use gloves when handling hot metal.
3. For stainless steel tubes/rods, use the cut off grinder. A simple tool to operate, the cut off grinder drives through the metal and pushes away whatever is in its way (including human body parts if not careful).
4. For brass tubes, use the bandsaw. Keep fingers away from any part of the exposed blade. Again, the tool does not know what it's cutting, so make sure you're using it with care.
5. Use the table sander to smooth the ends and remove any sharp splinters.

Assembly:

1. Follow plans for this part of the project. The plans tell you which parts are needed for each subassembly and where they go. There are no written instructions, just diagrams, so I will highlight key steps below.
2. Frame assembly: use double sided tape (the kind used to hold down metal in the OtherMills). Run drill through holes one more time if the hardware doesn't fit. Doing so will give it a fractional inch more room to slide in. A light tap of a mallet also comes in handy when fitting pieces together.
3. Ratchet tooth assembly: once brass tube is fully in, sand away the excess.
4. Ring assembly: square off the edges that you will tape together. Use double sided tape on both sides and press together. Then, drill screws into the 8 holes of the spinner connect that should align with the holes in the rings.
5. Drum assembly: tape together and sand away any excess brass tube.
6. Wind key: print out pattern from plans and use it to mark where the holes should be. The holes should align with the holes in the winder.
7. Weighted ring assemblies: the rings are different and where the weight (stainless steel tubes) is placed is important. There's also a note in the plans on how to make sure the ring's center of gravity is at its pivot point.
8. Stainless Steel Tube Core: use Dremel to make flats.
9. Spring: follow plans exactly to correctly insert spring into escapement drum and wrap it around the drum core.
10. For tight fit pieces (i.e. tube through bearing, stainless steel tube through brass tube) use the arbor press.