Trey's Tip of the Week
Trey’s Tip Of The Week
Trailer-Boat Toolkit
A few tools on the boat can save the day. Here are the items that could prove handy. I would be still stuck out on the lake if I didn't have this stuff aboard the boat. I would strongly suggest you go to Walmart, Home Depot, Lowes etc. tonight to gather up these items. A novice mechanic can operate these items along with your cell phone.
No one likes to break down, but having a basic toolkit on the boat could mean the difference between a minor irritation and having to call the number below this article for a tow. Although it's difficult to plan for every eventuality, being ready with some basic tools could save the day. Most boaters will likely have a few ideas of their own, and that's just fine, so use this list as a starting point and build from there. This isn't a comprehensive toolkit, simply a basic compendium of tools for first-aid maintenance.
Money spent on a good waterproof toolbox is never wasted; it'll keep your valuable tools dry, in one place, and prevent them from corroding.
Mirror On A Stick: This lets you look into places that would otherwise be inaccessible to the naked eye.
Hacksaw: Not just for cutting metal, it can also cut wood and fiberglass in a pinch.
Spray Lubricant: Use this for everything from freeing corroded fasteners, to spraying a protective film on the engine.
Oil Absorbent Pads: The perfect solution to prevent oil and fuel spills from finding their way into the bilge, or worse yet, the water
Flashlight: Perfect for finding that errant nut and washer that you just dropped into the bilge.
Rags: Keeping a good selection of rags on board makes cleaning up messes a snap. Microfiber cloths are the perfect choice for wiping down chartplotter and instrument displays without damage.
Caulking: Great for on-the-spot fixes of leaking deck fittings. Caulking can be purchased in an assortment of colors, so pick one to suit your boat's finish. Some will cure wet, underwater.
Hose Clamps: Again, not really a tool, but they take up so little space in the toolbox that it seems silly not to have them. A large hose clamp tightened around a spin-on filter can provide the necessary extra grip.
Adhesive Tape: Use it in a thousand ways. I once sailed all the way across the Atlantic with the toilet held in position with duct tape!
Wrenches: At the very least, stash the wrenches that came with the motor on board. You might want to add a couple of other frequently used sizes. An adjustable wrench is handy, too, but it can be a tight fit in many places.
*****Fuses: (real important) A blown engine fuse could be all that's preventing your engine from cranking over. Make sure you carry a selection of sizes.
Allen Wrenches: These come in both metric and standard sizes. Choose the type that fits your engine.
Markers: A myriad of uses, from marking the change date on fuel filters, to permanently labeling cables.
Screwdrivers: Carry a mix of sizes in both flat-head and Phillips styles.
Wire Strippers: No one plans to do any heavy-duty wiring jobs offshore, but a set of wire cutters with a crimping tool built in means you can always make perfect connections.
Multitool: If you carry only one tool, then this should be it. It includes pliers, a file, screwdrivers, a knife, a small saw, and more.
Fuel Filter: Not really a tool, but so important to the health and well-being of your boat engine that you should always have several spares handy. Take on a batch of bad fuel, and you'll be mightily glad that you thought to carry spares.
The Common (And Controversial) Cleat Hitch
Ask three boaters how to tie a cleat hitch and the debate is sure to follow
Despite the back and forth on this basic boating knot, here are some basics:
Step 1
It's important to wrap the dock line first around the farther cleat horn (in this case the right), then around the closer horn (on the left) before crossing over the cleat and beginning the figure 8.
Step 2
After making the first cross of the cleat with the line and going around the horn (on the right) a second time in a figure-8, make a half-hitch (or just flip the line) so the cleat is crossed again. Note the two parallel lines in the center and that the half-hitch continues the figure-8.
Step 3
Tighten as shown. The working end of the line (right) comes away from the cleat in the opposite direction from which it began.
Step 4
Any remaining length of line should be "flemished" so that it won’t trip anyone walking on the dock or tangle when leaving the dock. The same holds true if the cleat is onboard.
With Full Wrap
Boat Repair - Momentary Switches
Momentary switches make generators and engines start at the push of a button. But when they don't start, consider the switch rather than the component itself.
If your horn won't blow, or blows erratically, it's probably the switch that's the problem.
A momentary switch can come in numerous forms. You're probably most familiar with the little push button on your panel at the helm. Let's use the button for the horn as an example. You push it in and the horn blows. You take your finger off, it pops back out, and the horn stops blowing. Suppose the horn doesn't blow, or blows erratically, when you push the button in. The issue may be corroded connections at the switch terminals or elsewhere. This is easy to fix so check connections at the switch, horn, and power sources, before going further. If you see corrosion or other impairments such as a loose connection, fix that first. This may be as simple as tightening a screw or disconnecting the connection, cleaning it with an abrasive, adding a squirt of moisture-disbursing oil, and reassembling. If you don't see a problem with the wiring and connections, suspect the switch.
Finding The Fault
The basics of a momentary switch are fairly simple. The button is essentially a plunger held in the out position within its casing by a spring. At the other end of the plunger (inside the switch housing) is a contact surface. This is a metal conductor attached to the plunger, or pushed by the plunger, so that it contacts (jumps) and thus connects the back ends of the two wire terminals. The circuit is completed and the horn blows. When you remove your finger, the spring pushes the plunger back out and the contact is broken.
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You can usually determine quickly if the switch itself is the culprit by carefully jumping the wires, which are connected to the terminals behind the switch. Simply remove one wire from its terminal and touch it to the other. This normally causes a spark, and sparks cause explosions and fire unless the area where you are working is completely free of combustibles, including gases. You can also get a small shock if you're not careful. Some mechanics use an improvised jumper wire, which is a short piece of well-insulated wire with terminals at each end and a positive on/off switch in the middle. You turn the wire switch off, connect the wire ends to the momentary switch terminals, turn the wire switch on, and this more safely jumps the terminals. This wire and its on/off switch must be heavy duty enough to safely conduct the current involved. (If you have any doubt, get a qualified professional to do this simple check.) If the horn blows when you jump the wires, your issue is probably in the switch.
You can also test the switch, in theory, by removing both wires and using a volt-ohm meter to test for continuity by touching the probes to the switch terminals. There should be absolute continuity when you push the button. If there is not continuity, or if it is intermittent, you've located the problem. But volt-ohm meters are sometimes difficult to interpret unless you're familiar with them. (Notice I use words such as "probably" and "generally" a lot. This is because, with boat work, even simple boat work, few things are certain and it's important to always expect the unexpected.)
The Inner Workings
Given how simple momentary switches are, what can go wrong?
Usually the contact points become pitted or corroded to the extent that they pass either no current or current inadequate to do the job well. The fix may be to simply sand or file the contacts. You must disconnect the wiring and remove the switch from the panel first and open the housing at that end of the switch. This may be easy or not worth the effort, depending on the switch, but in an emergency situation you may be glad you know how to solve the problem at least temporarily.
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Another type of problem is that the contact component shifts or becomes dislodged from its assembly and therefore doesn't firmly seat against the backside of the wire terminals when you push the button. This is usually caused by age and wear, and is seldom worth fixing. (A well-made switch will typically last a long time before this happens.)
A third issue can occur if there is obstruction between the plunger and the shaft walls in which it moves. This could occur from problems such as too much lubricant that has hardened from dirt, or from corrosion. Depending on the build of your switch, this may be easy or difficult to access and clean using very light emery polishing paper or perhaps just a rough clean rag. It can be a particularly worrisome problem because often the plunger gets stuck in the down position, meaning that the horn won't turn off. This problem is far worse if the momentary switch is being used to start an engine. I've seen these switches stick down in this application, causing the starter solenoid to remain activated, and thus continuing to run the starter after the engine has fired off. This can quickly ruin a very expensive starter and related components and is a good reason to replace these relatively inexpensive switches regularly.
When One Switch Activates Another
The solenoid on an engine starter illustrates a multifaceted application of this type of switch. Instead of utilizing the muscle power from your finger to push the plunger, you utilize 12-volt current by turning the key or pushing the starter button, which sends the current to wires in the wall of the solenoid, creating magnetism. The "finger" in the engine solenoid is the heavy metal shaft in the open end of the solenoid. It is held in position by springs. The magnetism from the coil overcomes the springs' resistance, pulling the shaft in. This does two things in a typical starter arrangement. The shaft, as it is pulled to the end of its chamber, pulls the starter's gear out so that it engages the engine. But the other end of the shaft, as it is thrust forward, contacts and pushes a "button" which is essentially another momentary switch.
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This button is a much smaller shaft, also normally held out by springs. It moves forward to move a contact, typically a large copper contact disk (it looks like a washer), to close the circuit between the heavy-duty hot wire from the battery, to the positive wire going into the starter, which then causes the starter to begin spinning. So with this system, you are utilizing two "momentary switches." Some boats have a relay solenoid between the starter button and the starter solenoid.
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There are many variations of this type of switch, and yours may be considerably different from what we've discussed here, but if you understand the principle, you can probably deal with the problem. All of this may sound complex, but it's not and you may save yourself a lot of money or a ruined weekend if you have a general understanding of what's going on when you push that button.
Where's Waldo?
Can you find the problems in this photo? This is an example of what I see most of the time down below your engine hatch. I see this most of the time lake peeps and it's scary.
Monetary switch from a horn - the wires attach to the terminals at the base.
With the terminal plate removed and the switch depressed, you can see the two humps on the jumper bar at the base of the switch, which make contact with the contact pads on the terminal plate to close the circuit.
Cap being removed from top of starter solenoid revealing the wires leading down to the coil in the coil casing.
Carefully opening switch by bending back tabs.
In this switch, the contact pads have become corroded and pitted, and the jumper bar is askew.
Without the cap in place to hold the spring down, the copper contact disk (note pitting from arcing) is touching the terminal post as it would be if the engine were being started.
Removing terminal plate from switch box.
After partial filing and cleaning, most of the corrosion on the contact pads has been removed, but the depression on the left-hand pad from arcing may interfere with a good contact.
The plunger assembly for the contact disk is the "button" pushed by the shaft in the coil casing.
Looking up inside the starter solenoid coil casing after the shaft has been removed, the bottom of the plunger assembly is visible. The wear marks and dirt on the side of the chamber could impede the movement of the shaft.
Filing off the pitting on the contact disk.
On the underside of the cap, pitting from arcing at the contact base for the battery cable terminal must also be filed smooth.
With age, the interior wall of the housing for the main plunger can become rusty, clogged with dust and grease, or otherwise impaired. If this happens, the plunger may get stuck in the engaged position, forcing the starter's gearing to remain engaged with the engine (unless the speed of the engine overcomes this engagement) and holding down the momentary switch at the opposite end, continuously powering the starter. Big trouble! The cure is to regularly pull the solenoid (often you can do this without removing the starter), inspect the inside of the cylinder, and clean if necessary. Also, if you suspect a problem there, carefully remove the cap over the opposite end and inspect the contact points. Arcing from normal operation will eventually pit the contacts to the extent that they hang up or don't make sufficient contact to carry the amount of current required. Sometimes removing this cap (usually plastic) is more of a problem than most people want and replacement of the solenoid is the preferred solution.
Most people are familiar with the Where's Waldo? books, where the reader scours the pages to find a distinctively dressed cartoon character. Well, here's the marine version. No, you're not looking for Waldo in a Captain's hat, but the photo above contains 11 technical faults. Your job is to locate as many as possible. The problems fall into two main areas: Electrical and fuel/ventilation.
The picture was taken in the engine room of a twin gasoline-powered boat. Hopefully, this is not your boat!
Electrical
1. Improper Conductors. Conductors (wires) are the distribution network of the electrical system. They are subject to a harsh environments, temperature, vibration and humidity. As a result they should be designed appropriately. Such residential conductors as RomexTM have a solid core that will break over time due to vibration. Additionally, welding cable is often wrongly used for battery cable. The jacket and insulation are not rated for the marine environment and will break down over time. The correct conductors should meet the requirement of UL 1426 Boat Cable or SAE J378 and J1127 or 1128.
2. Conductor protection. The main culprit here is chafing of the conductors passing through a bulkhead. Over time, the chafing on the bulkhead will cause exposure of the copper and a bad situation. Chafe protection can be accomplished with loom, conduit, or overlapping electrical tape.
3. Conductor support. Conductors must be secured every 18 inches. This could be accomplished with smooth-edged metal clips or straps, metal clips with insulators, or plastic straps. Keep in mind that plastic straps can't be used in areas — over engines, say, or over shafts or other machinery — where failure would cause a hazard. Additionally, the insulation should not be damaged by the support during installation.
4. No Battery trays or boxes. These batteries are certainly not in battery boxes, and further investigation — not evident from the photo — showed that they are not in battery trays either. The intent of the tray or box is to contain any accidentally spilled battery electrolyte and protect the surrounding area.
5. Spring clips must not be used. While spring clips may be a quick solution for a dead battery, they are not an appropriate method to connect to battery terminals. In this example, the temporary battery charger has migrated into a permanent installation. Also the spring clips are continuously energized by the battery and not protected by the terminal covers. A proper connection should be made with ring terminals on the studs or battery terminals on the posts.
6. Improperly secured batteries. Batteries contain a chemical cocktail and have a tremendous amount of energy. In this case a bungee cord is simply not up to the task. Batteries should be secured with hold-downs or straps so they will move less than one inch.
7. No wing nuts on 6 AWG or larger conductors. Wing nuts are quick and easy to use, but they are not suitable for making high current connections because there is a limit as to how far the human hand can torque them down. In this case, the main DC negative conductor is connected to the battery by a wing nut.
8. Metal too close to battery. Metallic components in the fuel system within 12 inches of a battery terminal need to be protected with an insulating barrier. This is to prevent incidental contact from tools during battery installation and removal.
Fuel and Ventilation
1. Bulkhead penetrations. Bulkhead penetrations need to be sealed to prevent the migration of any fumes between the engine room and the inhabited spaces, cabins, staterooms, etc. This is particularly important to contain carbon monoxide, a lethal, colorless and odorless gas that is a by-product of combustion.
2. Fuel filter fire test. The fuel filter needs to pass the 2.5-minute fire test. In this instance, the plastic bowl at the bottom of the filter would melt before 2.5 minutes in a fire. The installation of a metal bowl under the filter provides the additional protection required.
3. Continuous energy flow. This remote fuel pump is connected to the battery and continuously energized even when the ignition is off. The fuel pump should be energized only when the engine is running.
So how many did you find? Would you buy or ride on this boat? The next time work is done on your boat, look for these issues. As electrical issues — followed by fuel issues — are the leading causes of fire on board, the safety of your crew and boat may just depend on it.
BELLOWS - WHERE ARE THEY/WHAT ARE THEY
If you have a boat with at least one outdrive, the outdrive has an accordion style hose called a "bellows".
Each outdrive has three different bellows:
u-joint bellows aka drive shaft bellows
shifter cable bellows
exhaust bellows
These hoses are rubber, become dry and brittle, and eventually crack and break. If not discovered soon after the damage occurs, the bellows could rust other internal parts of the drive system costing you additional money to repair or replace. Or, worst case scenario, your boat could sink. Below are some proactive ways for minimizing issues related to damaged bellows:
When your boat is out of the water...Tilt the outdrive all the way up, and turn the wheel all the way to one side to stretch both the #1 u-joint/drive shaft and #2 shifter cable bellows. Using a flashlight, look for cracks. Do the same after turning the wheel to the other side. If any weathering damage is found, replace all three bellows.
When your boat is in the water... Tilt the outdrive all the way up, and turn the wheel all the way to one side to stretch the #1 u-joint/drive shaft and #2 shifter cable bellows. Wait thirty minutes for the water to fill the hose and travel to other parts of the drive system. Go into the engine room with a flashlight. Look closely for water dripping from underneath the engine where the engine bolts to the transom. If any water is dripping, regardless of amount, replace all three bellows.
The exhaust bellows will not cause your boat to sink. However, if they are damaged, the exhaust bellows could cause restriction in the exhaust, inhibiting your engine's performance. They are checked the same way as the other bellows when your boat is out of the water only.
Bottom line... check your boat's bellows regularly. The last thing you want to happen when worst case scenario occurs is for a claims adjuster to deny your claim for lack of maintenance. Don't be cheap... be proactive! Your wallet, your boat, and your safety depend on you.
Forget Something?
Don't panic, it's not too late if you didn't remove or top off the ethanol in your boat last winter.
Since E10 — gasoline consisting of 10 percent ethanol — has become a standard part of boaters' lives, manufacturers have strongly recommended either emptying the tanks completely or topping them up and adding stabilizer for the winter. Doing so helps to prevent phase separation — when the ethanol-water solution settles out of the gasoline, creating a corrosive mixture damaging to most engines. So what should you do if you forgot?
First you need to determine if there is water in the fuel. Pump a small amount out of the bottom of the tank into a glass jar or clear plastic bottle using a hand pump or a large baster. (Don't use an electric pump to do the job — a small spark can lead to an explosion.) Let it sit for 10 or 15 minutes. If the gasoline appears close to colorless and smells normal and nothing settles to the bottom of the container, go ahead and top off the tank with fresh gasoline and then run it through your engine come spring. If your engine shows any signs of hard starting or difficulty in running, dispose of the fuel, change the filters again, and switch to fresh gas.
If clear water or a cloudy layer settles out of the gasoline, then it has become contaminated with water, and it will have to be discarded of. You can dispose of small amounts by taking it to your county's household hazardous waste collection site. Google your county and "household hazardous waste," and you'll find the relevant information. For amounts over 10 gallons or so, your only option will be to pay to dispose of it.
Any questions or to schedule service, give Shawn or I a call today @ (817) 980-2370
