Different modes: Speedlights will have two different modes, TTL (through the lens) and manual. TTL is the automatic setting and it uses the intelligent hotshoe points to talk to your camera and determine how much light is present to see how powerful of a flash it needs to send out. Manual is where you tell your flash how much power you want. (Some flashes have Multi Mode- think of this a disco lights- not needed for our setup).
High Curtain Sync, Rear Curtain Sync and Normal: HCS can be used for high shutter speeds- it allows your flash to 'explode' quickly enough that your camera can pick it up with a fast shutter speed. If you do not turn on HCS and use a very high SS, you may get black bars across your image. RCS is for when you use a super slow SS- it allows the flash to trigger at the end of the shutter. Unless you are using really high SS (over 500) or really low (under 60), use normal mode.
Bouncing: ALWAYS bounce your flash. Never point your flash directly at a newborn. Bouncing means turning the flash head to bounce the flash off of the ceiling or wall. Take a look at your surroundings and your position to determine the best angle to bounce your flash. Please note that you should be changing your bounce position for almost every image that you take. If your images are too bright, look at where you are asking your flash to bounce- is it the wall RIGHT NEXT to you? The flash has to have time to trigger, bounce off your ceiling or wall and when it comes back to you- that is what lights baby. The same goes for images that are too dark, are you asking your flash to bounce too far away or to a place that does not make sense? Flash is used to fill in shadows, so determine where the shadows are that you want to fill and angle the flash to compensate.
Flash exposure: This is notated as either positive or negative numbers (-.3, -.7, -1.0, +.3, +.7, +1.0, etc). We should very rarely be changing these numbers and 99% of the time, they should stay at ). This is only used when ALL of your other settings are correct and you are still struggling with too-bright or too-dark images. Use this setting cautiously as it can wash out or mute photos very quickly.
Zoom: Be sure you have the zoom set to auto and not manual to ensure the flash is reading your camera correctly.
When using flash, it is important to remember that flash is a lighting assistant and not a main lighting source. You need to have some type of light in room (window light or overhead lights)
You will want to use a shutter speed of 1/80 - flash freezes motion so you can use a lower SS.
Your aperture (fstop) will be 3.5 if using a 35mm or 4.5 if using a 18-55mm
Your ISO will be dependent on the room and the only setting you should change. If using Nikon hospital camera, the ISO should not go above 800 due to graininess.
Bounce the Light for Soft, Natural Results: Newborn photography calls for soft, flattering light that highlights the delicate features of the baby. When using a Speedlight, always bounce the flash off a neutral surface like a white wall or ceiling (you can use the built-in white card to reflect white, or even bounce off of an open window to direct natural light back in). This technique diffuses the light, eliminating harsh shadows and creating a natural glow. Avoid pointing the flash directly at the newborn, as it can result in unflattering light and discomfort for the baby.
DO: Position yourself so the window light acts as a soft fill on one side of the baby. Tilt your Speedlight to bounce light off the ceiling or a nearby wall opposite the window, ensuring even lighting.
DON’T: Point the Speedlight directly at the baby, as it will create harsh shadows and overexpose delicate features. Avoid bouncing the light off colored walls, as it can cast unwanted hues on the baby’s skin.
Example Setup:
Camera: ISO 200, f/2.8, 1/125s.
Speedlight: TTL mode with -2/3 EV.
Result: A soft, naturally lit photo where the Speedlight fills in shadows created by the window light.
Scenario 2: Dim Room with Low Ceilings
DO: Bounce the Speedlight off the ceiling at a slight angle forward to ensure the light spreads evenly. Use a dome diffuser to soften the light further, creating a gentle, natural glow.
DON’T: Use full flash power without diffusing it, as it will create a flat, unnatural look and make the baby uncomfortable.
Example Setup:
Camera: ISO 400, f/2.8, 1/60s.
Speedlight: TTL mode with a dome diffuser and bounce angle at 75°.
Result: A warm, well-lit photo with soft shadows and no glare on the baby’s skin.
Scenario 3: Close-Up Detail Shots
DO: Angle the Speedlight slightly to the side and use the built-in bounce card to direct a small amount of light forward for subtle highlights. This works well for capturing tiny hands or feet.
DON’T: Point the Speedlight straight at the baby’s features, as it will flatten the details and create sharp shadows.
Example Setup:
Camera: ISO 100, f/4.0, 1/125s (to maintain sharpness for close-ups).
Speedlight: TTL mode, +1/3 EV for extra light in a dim environment.
Result: Highlighted details with soft edges, adding dimension to the close-up shot
Scenario 4: Group Photo with Parents and Baby
DO: Bounce the Speedlight off the ceiling or a large white surface behind you to evenly light the entire group. Adjust flash exposure compensation based on skin tones and distance.
DON’T: Fire the Speedlight directly at the group, as it will create uneven lighting, shadows, and potential glare in parents’ eyes.
Example Setup:
Camera: ISO 200, f/5.6, 1/125s (to ensure depth of field for the group).
Speedlight: TTL mode with 0 EV.
Result: Evenly illuminated group shot with natural highlights and minimal shadows.
Remember that your flash talks to your camera the entire time. It asks your camera, "how much light do we need?" and based on your camera settings, it could say "I'm using a low ISO which means I have pretty good light, I just need a little bit of lighting help to even shadows" or "I'm using a really high ISO which means we are struggling for light in this room and I will need a lot of power"
If your flash photos are not coming out the way you want, look at your camera settings first to see what you are telling your flash and then look to see where you are bouncing your flash.