Making things is my driving passion in life. I am a very creative person and as soon as I have a good idea, I feel compelled to start making it a reality right away. Below, you can see some examples of personal projects I've made, as well as some write-ups of times I experimented with new methods and techniques in my crafting.
You can also click the buttons below for more of my personal works!
I love sending and receiving cards in the mail, so I was happy to find a stack of vintage greeting cards for sale at a thrift shop a few years ago.
One card in particular caught my eye--a particularly unattractive greeting card featuring a round "frame" cutout on the front, through which a layer of paper with several printed-on roses protruded. When you opened the card, the roses in the frame popped up and swiveled inwards, while the frame cutout (as the left side of the card) swung out.
The original card in question. Not so special, right? That's when I looked closer and discovered something that really piqued my crafting interests: The card was made of only one continuous sheet of paper, folded in half and half again to form a distinct outer and inner layer. The front frame was cut through a top-and-bottom quadrant of the whole sheet, while the roses spanned the inner two sheets. The design was truly ingenious in its simplicity and complexity! Naturally, I needed to reverse-engineer it and make my own.
To reverse-engineer the card, I first needed to learn the limitations of the design by reproducing it in miniature. I traced its folds and cuts onto a clean sheet of paper, which I scanned, shrunk, and cut by hand to make a small reproduction of the original card. It worked perfectly! Then, it was time to remix the card and make it my own.
Who did it better?
My single-sheet pop-through remix card would be bee-themed, of course! I updated the shapes and fold pattern of the original, and drew up a new version that I scanned and converted to a vector file on Inkscape. I then used a Cricut Explore X/Y cutter to cut my design out of cardstock. The result was a little unwieldy, (and I forgot to flip the image, so its direction was reversed), but it worked!
I updated the vector design, then cut again and produced the exact result I had hoped for!
When I refine this project in the future, I'd like to attempt the following changes:
I have been making one-of-a-kind stuffed toys and plushies ever since I first learned to sew! I like to draft original plushie patterns and create three-dimensional cloth projects, as I find it particularly fun to see how a basic design changes when it goes from unstuffed to stuffed. For my other sewing work, see my Wearable Projects and Costumes or Embroidery pages.
Clark is a self-drafted penguin plushie made of polar fleece. Dry lentils in his body give him enough weight to stand freely!
Wallace is an itty-bitty self-drafted penguin plushie based on a miniaturized version of the pattern I designed for Clark! He stands at approximately 3 inches tall and wears a dapper yellow bow tie.
A friend was so captivated with Wallace the Penguin that she commissioned me to make her an even smaller penguin! Phillip is my tiniest self-drafted plushie yet, and features a suede collar and bow tie.
Sunny is a small self-drafted art doll of a Mola-Mola, the heaviest bony fish in the world. She stands (swims?) at 9 inches tall, and wears a small flower crown made of ribbons!
I made Rosie while experimenting with new ways of patterning a two-part sewable sphere. She's elegantly dressed in a '50s style dress with a cute pink ascot!
These nice round bees use the same two-piece sphere design that I developed for Rosie the Bunny. They're partially stuffed with dry lentils to act as "beans" and give them some nice weight.
This was my first foray into upholstering--a simple rectangular foam cushion. The resulting cushion is effectively surrounded in a tight slipcover, which is exactly what I was going for! In the future, I'd like to try more upholstering, and next time make a removable cover!
For the person who truly has it all, why not make a cashmere tomato? I made these funky fruits and roots out of scraps of upcycled sweaters.
Creating something that solves a problem is the very heart and soul of engineering. Sometimes, the result of the engineering process is a life-changing medical device, or a process improvement saving tons of time and labor. Other times, it's a cardboard hot glue stick dispenser. This afternoon project was a simple, but straightforward personal application of the engineering design process, as I took the idea from concept to reality.
The Process: I took basic measurements of the hot glue sticks, and drafted up a pattern, which I cut out of cardboard. I made the interior stick-selecting shaft and exterior hardware out of junk objects I found around the house (the knob is actually a dental floss container!)
The Problem: When I use my hot glue gun, I often go through several glue sticks in a session. Sometimes, due to the time limitation of the cooling glue, I'll need to rapidly load another stick in the glue gun, but getting the sticks out of the bag they came in can be challenging one-handed.
The Proposal: After brainstorming several less-hands-on-and-therefore-less-fun solutions to this problem, I settled on creating a hot glue stick dispenser based on a toothpick dispenser I had seen at a restaurant. My design would dispense a single stick a time via a gravity-fed hopper when you turned a knob.
The Prototype: The finished prototype is both functional and sturdy. Storing the sticks in the closed dispenser also prevents them from getting sticky due to heat and sunlight exposure.
How I Could Improve the Final Product: I'm actually quite happy with the cardboard dispenser, but I would also love to make it as a 3D model, both to 3D print a cleaner final product and to share my project with the world. I could also add multiple notches in the stick selection shaft, so it wouldn't require a full knob rotation to dispense a stick. Ultimately, however, as a simple application of the engineering process, I would count this project as a complete success!
Paper marbling is a process by which inks or paints floated on top of water (which has been thickened with a chemical agent) can be transferred on to paper, creating an interesting marbled effect. From the moment I first saw a video about traditional paper marbling, I was obsessed. The process is very meditative, and no two marbled papers are ever quite the same.
Unfortunately for me, the supplies needed to perform "traditional" paper marbling were both expensive and difficult to procure in small quantities, so during the summer of 2016 I experimented doggedly with different takes on the process, including paper marbling with watercolors, acrylic paints, calligraphy inks, and more. Before dipping, I treated papers with a "mordant" (a mixture of alum and water) to give the paper some "tooth" to take on the paint.
Ultimately, my many attempts at paper marbling paid off, and I was able to refine a reasonably-foolproof marbling method that uses watered-down acrylic paints floated (or, rather, dripped) on a pan full of plain shaving cream. After all that work looking for a good method, who would have guessed?
Dipped Toshie's Jewel origami using calligraphy inks -- It worked, but the colors were too desaturated for my liking.
Dipped Toshie's Jewel origami using watered-down children's tempera paint -- Moderately successful, but the paint was very prone to smearing across the white sections of the paper.
The perfect shaving cream and acrylic paint marble! Vivid colors, with bright whites in between.
More examples of shaving cream and acrylic marbling, as shown on cards I made with the marbled paper!
Pour painting is a method of painting where you add a flow agent to paints to make them runnier, then layer different colors of paint in a cup with layers of a lubricant such as silicone oil between the different paint colors. When ready, you pour the paint cup onto your canvas or other object, and the different layers of paint slide over and around each other, creating an interesting wave-like pattern. You can also run a flame over the wet paint to encourage the formation of "cells" which are effectively windows through one color and into the next.
Naturally, when I heard about this technique, I was immediately itching to try it out for myself. My first attempts did not go well, as the paint wasn't runny enough. Watering down the paints made them runny, but too liquid to layer effectively on in the cup. Lacking access to any commercially-available flow agent, I thinned my acrylic paints with watered-down Elmer's Glue, and used a silicone spray for door hinges as the lubricant between the layers. It's a somewhat messy process (protip: work inside of a disposable aluminum tray!), but it paid off with its unique and beautiful results.
I love trying and refining new techniques! For more pour painting, check out my finger-jointed MDF box.