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My second visit to Slovakia and the High Tatra Mountains proved to be as much fun as the first. I was able to spend more time in those magnificent mountains and experience their rugged beauty as well as the hot springs that are plentiful in the area. This is one of the best-kept secrets in the world. Small villages that still practice the old culture of cooking, music, and dance, combined with the natural beauty of the area.
The weather was perfect, just a hint of fall but crisp and clear. Just outside my hotel was a small road that led to a path that would eventually take you to the top of the mountains. Many people hike these year-round. While trekking, I saw many of the locals picking wild mushrooms in the forest around the mountains. These mountains remind me very much of the Grand Tetons in western Wyoming in the US.
I have been fortunate to have traveled back to Slovakia several more times, visiting old friends, places, and finding new ones.
One winter day I took the cable car to just below the Starý Smokovec peak. At this summit were an observatory and a restaurant surrounding a frozen lake. From here you could continue to walk up to the peak that would have taken an expert to eventually scale. I chose to stay where I was and enjoy the beautiful view.
A year later I was to find myself in the same area, but this time during the summer. Still, a place that most people have never heard of or have no idea of the natural beauty that is in this part of the world. Since my first visit, some new hotels have popped up, but overall the natural beauty of the Tatras has been undisturbed.
Crossing the Dunajec River between Poland and Slovakia.
In the foothills of the Tatras lies the small village of Lendaku. I was told that the people here were very independent and continued to follow their traditions despite past Russian control over the years. True to form they continued practicing their religion as well as wearing their traditional costumes. While visiting the village, I was allowed to cook from scratch, potato-filled Pirogis, a Slovak and Polish staple.
The women of the village welcomed me to their kitchen and guided me in the process of making this delicacy. Not as easy as it looked but they did turn out good enough to serve guests at the dinner later that afternoon.
Early one Sunday morning, listening to the church bells ringing, I went for walk in the village. I spotted these women and child dressed in the local costume heading to church. As the church bells tolled these women found themselves in a hurry as not to be late for service. In a hurry, they graciously posed for this photo. I was amazed when I saw their boots.. very similar to American cowboy boots.
The locals are proud to wear their traditional costumes and on Sundays, it may be expected. These beautiful and strong horses were part of a development project given to locals to help clean up downed trees after a natural disaster. After the cleanup, they quickly modified the horses' use and began pulling coaches with tourists who visit the Tatras.
It seemed that most of the villages were rushing to the church that Sunday!
This lady took to me and later "challenged" me to drink with her. Now we are not talking about soda water, but some very stout Slovak vodka and brandy. I thought after one obligatory drink that this contest was over, however, she had another idea. She drank me under the table!
As with children all over the world, curiosity and shyness prevail. This child was with her mother on the square in Poprad, located at the base of the Tatras. When I approached to take the photo, she turned and simply stared at me as I took the photo. When I turned and shared it with her and her mother, she smiled as did her mom. This part of Slovakia, with its beautiful mountains, hot springs, and great people, is another of the world's best-kept secrets! I am lucky to have found it several times, and each time it just seems to get better!
On one of my visits to Slovakia, I had the opportunity to drive through Poland, through the mountains, and eventually to Poprad. Driving through the Tatra mountains, I was so pleased and continually amazed at the magnificent scenery. I never get bored by the sights and love to be in the mountains there.
During the summer months, people from many European countries travel to these remote mountains to camp, swim, and enjoy the hot springs that dot the area. This has become one of my favorite places to visit and one of Europe's best-kept secrets.
About an hour's drive east of Poprad, close to Hungary is a magnificent castle of Spis. Passing on the road, it jumps out at you from the small hill. As you drive around the castle, you think it will never end as it winds down the hill like a snake. One of the largest castles I have ever seen!
South of Poprad, you will find the Dobšinská Ice Caves, a UNESCO-listed ice cave. It is located in one of Slovakia's national parks. It is one of the largest ice caves in the world and has ice all year long.
I visited these caves one summer morning and was told to bring a jacket and hat. Of course, I had not packed for cold weather, and my hosts loaned me these items, and I was glad they did. As you descend into the caves, it gets colder and colder but ever more beautiful. It is easy to get lost in the natural beauty of these caves. It was well worth the short drive and time spent exploring.
I have spent a lot of time in and around Poprad and each time has been terrific. A city of just over 50,000, Poprad is set at the foot of the High Tatras Mountains. It's known as a gateway to Tatras National Park. The central Námestie sv. Egídia is a square with baroque buildings and the 13th-century St. Egidius Church. Just a short walk northeast is the well-preserved Spišská Sobota area, with centuries-old houses and churches.
A leftover symbol of the Soviet Era in Slovakia. This large, outdoor, and beautiful mosaic still stands in the middle of Poprad. It is a Russian tribute to their soldiers being friendly to the locals and being welcomed by them.
There is plenty to do here both day and evening. There is plenty to do in all seasons. If you like to hike or ski think about a visit!
Not far from here on the Polish side of the Tatras, you will find the ski resort and tourist destination at Zakopane. Cross over the Tatras and find the Slovak side for half the price and half the crowds!
One evening after dinner I began to walk through Poprad to my hotel about 10 minutes away. I had reached the town center when I came across these young women dancing in the common area. I stopped to take a photo and one of the women asked me what I was going to do with the photo. I explained what I did and they all seemed very pleased. I asked them what they were doing and they explained to me that there was a party in the building where they were dancing in front. I then asked them what was the occasion. They shared with me that it was a Roma village celebration of the Roma King's daughter's first communion. They invited me to join them inside and I agreed. Inside the building, I was able to meet many of the villagers who came to celebrate their Roma customs in their celebration. This area has many Roma people that we often refer to as gypsies. That night I was welcomed by the "tribe" where I listened to traditional Roma music, instruments, costumes, and customs. A great night and memory.
The Gypsy King's daughter
During the Roma celebration the night before the Gypsy King invited me to their village located in the outskirts of Poprad. These ceremonies last for days and I was now part of it. The next day, the party started again, with lots of food, alcohol, music, and dance!
Just south of Poprad is the small town of Kezmarok. The settlement at Kežmarok dates back to the Stone Age. It has an incredible history attached to several cultures including Germany, Hungary, and Poland.
The current village of Kezmarok dates to the 13th century and its most famous attractions are the ancient churches and its famous castle.
The castle's construction work began in 1465. Later the original Gothic castle was thoroughly rebuilt into a rich, renaissance mansion. Deprived of support and funds, the castle was run down, and several parts of it were destroyed by fires, in 1741 and 1787. In the second half of the nineteenth-century ideas appeared for their use as a museum. It wasn't until after a partial renovation of the main tower in 1931 that a museum was created.
The castle has been preserved in the form of a renaissance-baroque style but with a clear layout of its original appearance. Currently, it still serves as a museum.
The castle served to defend Kazmorak and the beautiful village that now surrounds it. The blue building on the left of the photo is where I would work for several weeks while I was there.
Within minutes of the Tatra mountains this small village is a great stopover.
The mayor (hlavný hodnostár)
of Kezmarok greeted me on my visit here.
What I enjoy most.... just sitting in a small outdoor restaurant or coffee shop and calling it my office. Couldn't think of a better way to get my work done! I have been lucky to have many such opportunities around the world. Frankly, I think I have done my best work in places like this.
This slideshow also contains several videos. It is longer than most of my slide shows, so be prepared to watch a bunch of my friends dancing at a party we had in a small restaurant in the foothills of the Tatras. I'll understand if you fast forward a bit!
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