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Marrakesh, Agafay Desert, Ouzoud Falls, Atlas Mountains
MARRAKESH
MARRAKESH
While visiting France I decided to take a short flight and travel to Morocco. The flight from Nantes took me to the beautiful city of Marrakesh. My visit here proved to be another wonderful adventure. Filled with colorful souks, spicy foods and natural beauty my time in and around Marrakesh proved to be a special travel experience.
I visited Morocco during Ramadan, observed by Muslims worldwide as a month of fasting, prayer, reflection and community.
At sundown, the people came out to celebrate and break their fast by enjoying the company of others and sharing meals in the medina (square).
It was very hot during my stay here. During the hot days of Ramadan many people continue their daily routines while fasting. One local admitted that their routines tend to be modified and a bit slower during this time and resting or a nap during the day was quite common.
Life goes on during Ramadan but a bit slower.
Koutoubia Mosque,
The call to prayer can be heard five times per day coming from the numerous mosques that fill the city and the countryside.
The Koutoubia Mosque, (Arabic: جامع الكتبية ) is the largest in Marrakesh. Koutoubia Mosque is 250 feet high, including the majestic minaret, and was built in 1158 by the Almohad Caliph Abd al-Mu’min and then completed by his grandson in 1195.
The courtyard of the mosque originally housed booksellers and scribes who could write documents, hence the Arabic name kutubiyyin gave its name to the Koutoubia or book seller’s mosque.
Another mosque at the square in Marrakesh.
Marrakesh is known for its souks or market. The word "souk" most likely refers to Arabic/North African traditional markets. They are easy to find from the medina but once in navigating through them and finding your way back takes skill. The experience of wandering the souks with its amazing colors, spices, ceramic, carpet, leather and metal goods is overwhelming. To add to the experiencing, the expected bargaining with the store owners may challenge your skills.
Getting lost in the many labyrinths and alleys is part of the fun in this city. Find a landmark near your Riad and it will make it easier to find your way home!
The local architecture is stunning. The hand-carved doors, ceilings, and walls are unlike anything I had seen. The tile work in the small Riads is remarkable and very colorful.
The term Riad is applied to old townhouses built around a central courtyard. Technically, it should have some plants in four planting beds and a central fountain.
Many of the Riads have been converted into small "hotels" and are the way to experience Marrakesh. I chose one just off the main medina. I quickly learned the route to and from my Riad through the narrow alleys, and navigating the city became much easier for me. The Riad provided me with the local flavor of the city, its architecture, furniture, ambiance, and great rooftop dining just added to my overall memories of the city. The staff was incredibly friendly and helpful.
Once in the souks, the world seems to change. Feeling you may have walked back in time you find hundreds of small, individual stores that sell just about everything. Many are geared for the tourist trade, but if you wander the right alley, you will find the stores where the locals shop. The livestock souks were most fascinating, and I saw locals purchasing live chickens by the armload. Unfortunately, taking photos here is difficult and many of the store owners refused to allow it.
The souks are a great place to find handmade leather goods ranging from bags to shoes as well as artisan jewelry and handmade Berber (Amazigh) carpets. Be prepared to bargain as this is expected and can be either frustrating or fun! I stopped at an antique store and was able to purchase a wall hanging made from a vintage, handmade Berber (Amazigh) leather camel saddle for about $35. The initial price was quoted to me for over $100, so play the game and enjoy some beautiful things to bring home.
I found taking photos here very difficult. Many people feel that you are taking advantage of them by taking photos, thinking you will profit from them. I learned quickly to speak with them first and get permission.
Knowing that photographing people was often discouraged, I took along a hand-written index card written in Arabic by my Jordanian neighbor. The note simply explained who I was and what I was doing with my cameras. When I showed this to most people, they seemed to appreciate the effort and allowed me access.
Plenty of ceramics
Handmade, colorful, leather shoes!
Conde Nast 10 reasons to get lost in the Souks:
The history
The ancient streets, souks, businesses, and homes of the Marrakech medina tell the story of a thousand years of urban development at the western edge of the Islamic world.
The sensory experience
The fragrant scents, sounds, and sights of Marrakech change with each new alley you explore. Think African spices, orange blossoms, gasoline, smoke, and dust. Donkey carts, afternoon prayer, and Moroccan instruments. Ultramarine blues, saffron oranges, and intense jades, wherever you look.
The courtyards and gardens
In the narrowest, quietest alleys of the medina, don’t be surprised to find a lemon garden or an extravagant Moroccan courtyard. The enclosed courtyard—necessary in Marrakech because of Islamic notions of privacy and the realities of harsh desert climates offers some of the most beautiful and surprising spaces in the medina.
The people
In the busy main streets of the medina, you’re sure to be bombarded with the aggressive sales tactics of would-be guides and craft-sellers. But wander deeper into the alleys, and you’ll get an up-close view of how people in this city really live.
The rooftop terraces
A good break from the chaos of street-level is the tranquility of a rooftop restaurant. From a few stories up, you can see the Atlas Mountains, the Koutoubia Mosque, and a glimpse of a thousand rooftop patios and courtyards.
The eclectic modes of transport
Mopeds, donkey carts, push-carts, bicycles, and tiny, hand-painted trucks all frantically move through the medina. Seeing ancient and modern modes of transport bustle through these tiny streets is a spectacle in itself. Careful for those speeding mopeds!
The souks
The traditional Arab markets, or souks, of the Marrakech medina, are renowned around the world for their exotic and ageless experience. Souks are organized into traditional commodities. There are souks for spices, olives, musical instruments, antiques, crafts, wool and silks, and even brass lanterns.
The architecture
The motif of the keyhole arch is emblematic of Moroccan architecture, and this beautiful theme can be found in almost any structure throughout the medina. Some of the most striking arches can be found near the entrance of the Ben Youssef Madrasa.
The produce
Morocco’s distinctive cuisine can be experienced at any number of restaurants and cafes. However, sampling and purchasing the ingredients from street vendors in the souks and the Jemmaa el-Fnaa square is to appreciate these core elements of the cuisine in their traditional setting.
The colors
Repeating patterns, bold colors, and varied Islamic and North African motifs abound in the medina.
I started each morning with a great homemade breakfast on the rooftop patio of my Riad. Even though it was Ramadan the staff graciously prepared my food during their fasting period. Hot Moroccan mint tea, eggs, pastry, and yogurt topped off with fresh-squeezed orange juice. A wonderful way to start my daily adventures.
A typical Moroccan meal will include some type of meat, such as lamb, chicken, or beef. It's often cooked and served in a tagine with vegetables and couscous. Bread and Moroccan mint tea will usually be served on the side as well.
One very hot afternoon while exploring a local neighborhood away from the Medina I made my way to the Bahia Palace.
The Bahia Palace is a palace and a set of gardens located in Marrakesh. It was built in the late 19th century, and intended to be the greatest palace of its time. The name means "brilliance". As in other buildings of the period in other countries, it was intended to capture the essence of the Islamic and Moroccan styles.
I was drawn to these stunning tiles and bold colors at the Palais de la Bahia.
Marrakesh is a tourist city and you may find it a bit like a carnival as you experience a local population who are used to connecting with people from around the globe.
I found most people to be friendly and very welcoming. Some were very outgoing and asked questions as to where I was from and even posed for photos. However, I found that taking photos of people in Marrakesh was difficult. Most people shunned the camera and I had to respect their cultural and religious beliefs. To be honest this was difficult but in the long run, the right thing to do. I was able to take several nice portraits during my stay to add to my large collection of beautiful faces from around the globe.
The experience in the souks will keep you busy and on your toes, but try to get out of the Medina and visit the many beautiful attractions the city has to offer. You will find to your delight that once you leave the tourist Medina, Marrakesh is a wonderful place to explore and see the real city and its people.
Jemaa el-Fnaa (Arabic: ساحة جامع الفناء saaHat jamaaʻ al-fanâʼ, ) is a square and market place in the old city (Medina). It remains the main medina of Marrakesh, used by locals and tourists. The square is the focal point of the city with the main mosque, souks, and restaurants surrounding it. It is the heart of Marrakesh.
It is also a carnival for tourists with the locals trying everything they can to part you from your money. Yes, these are two cobras swaying in the middle of the medina. If they won't scare you to part with some dirhams, the local currency, perhaps the numerous Barbary Apes that also hang out there will.
My favorite thing to buy there was the freshly squeezed orange juice and very cold and sweet watermelon. I would often buy a large orange juice for just pennies and sit in the outdoor cafe or rooftop area and enjoy watching the "circus" in the medina.
Ouzoud Falls Area
Ouzoud Falls Area
Don't limit yourself to the city. Morocco has some of the most beautiful landscapes with high mountains and large lakes located east and south of the coast. Driving just a few miles outside of Marrakesh, I came across many olive groves where the large, tasty green olives that I loved to eat are grown. Olive oil, as well as argan oil is a thriving business here.
Surprisingly, Morocco is very green. It reminded me very much of northern New Mexico in the US. Driving through the Amazigh (pronounced, Ama zeke) villages, you can feel the rural life that the Amazigh people live and love. I was able to visit a family here who graciously invited me into their modest home. Here I snacked on some fresh olives and bread—very kind of them to do this during their Ramadan fast.
The black liquid on the ground to the left of the door is a concoction made by the locals to ward off snakes and other crawling critters.
The image to the left is a door inside of one of the homes I visited. The colorful walls and door add to the beauty of the home. The symbol over the door is a Amazigh tribal mark and appears on the Amazigh ethnic flag.
One of the most outstanding natural sites I have ever seen. In the Atlas Mountains, Ouzoud Falls, over 330 ft tall, are near the village of Tanaghmeilt and are truly magnificent. The bottom of the falls is accessible via a shaded path lined with olive trees and is a long hike, but it's well worth the effort. The series of multiple falls empties into the El-Abid River gorge.
I was fortunate to take advantage of the clear, cool water at the bottom and spent some time swimming there. Getting back up takes some work, so the cool swim prepared me for the narrow and difficult trek leading to the road toward Beni Mellal.
Atlas Mountains & Amazigh Villages
Atlas Mountains & Amazigh Villages
The Atlas Mountains run from Morocco to Tunisia. The range's highest peak is Toubkal, with an elevation of 13,671 ft in southwestern Morocco. It separates the Mediterranean and Atlantic coastlines from the Sahara Desert. It is not unusual to see snow on the mountain tops. The Atlas Mountains are primarily inhabited by Amazigh populations.
I had the opportunity to spend some time in the mountains and visit several Amazigh villages.
Spending time in the Amazigh villages was a high point of my trip to this area.
The Amazigh are a Moroccan pre-Arab culture that has ruled unperturbed and unconquered for hundreds of years. Amazigh call themselves some variant of the word i-Mazigh-en, meaning "free people". Calling themselves Amazigh, the free people, they have managed to preserve their language and culture for centuries.
The Amazigh have been characterized as nomads using camels to cross the nearby Sahara desert. Most today are farmers of the mountains and valleys in Morocco. My experience with the local Amazigh people was another opportunity to learn more about their unique culture.
On the way from Marrakesh to the mountains I was able to stop and visit this small community where nomadic people lived. Located in the very eastern part of the Agafay desert this small nomadic village afforded me several nice photo opportunities.
One of the local modes of transportation.
A grandmother with her granddaughter poses while I was in their tent located at the foothills of the Atlas Mountains. The little girl looks a bit angry but I learned that she wasn't feeling well that day.
As with most places in the world, simply asking "OK" and raising the camera generally allowed me to take a photo. This was the case in this photo.
It didn't take long for her to get more comfortable with me, and later I was able to get several nice photos of her smiling.
Taken through a small hole in the carpet of the tent wall, I was able to capture the little girl with a smile.
When in "Rome"! Traveling in the desert meant doing as the locals do. I love my blue outfit called a haik! It was cool and kept the dust and sand off of me while riding the camels through the desert to the village.
Photobomb by my camel!
Extremely friendly and fiercely proud and free, the people of this region were overwhelmingly hospitable. Poor by Western standards, the Amazigh people continue to practice ancient traditions in their modern world.
Several Amazigh men shared with me that the term "Berber" is seen as a racial slur by the people. They explained that it has been so for centuries and that they have been sensitive and tolerant of tourists using it, knowing that they have no understanding of the original meaning, "Barbarian" or savage. They refer to themselves and prefer to be known as Amazigh, the free people.
This man enjoyed photography and had a camera hanging from his neck. I handed him my camera and asked him to photograph me. He gladly agreed and took the photo of me dressed in my blue haik.
Villages like this one dot the lower part of the Atlas Mountains. The residents have lived in these villages for many years and practice a simple, mostly farming lifestyle. Many people also practice the artisan work of their ancestors and produce beautiful works of art ranging from carpets to jewelry.
The Amazigh culture mixed with the Arab influence produces some beautiful art and architecture. I must have seen hundreds of ornate doors that I would have loved to have had for my own!
My new friends owned these local mules that would help make my trek to the summit much easier. The ride was an adventure, and riding on the mule made taking photos rather easy. Not having to climb with my own two legs proved to be a great last-minute idea!
While visiting this area, I met an old man, a former diplomat from Greece. He was recovering from recent heart surgery. He wanted to see the area especially a remote waterfall up on the mountain where I was heading. While we were sitting, taking a break from our lowland hike, he said that he didn't think he could make it to the waterfall and seemed very disappointed. I asked some locals if there was any way we could reach the waterfall on a camel. One man told me that he knew a friend who would rent us mules that would be perfect for the hilly mountain trail. I shared this with my Greek friend and convinced him to join me. We both rented our mules for just a few dollars and began our mule journey. The wisest decision I had made in a long time!
My new Greek friend did just fine on our trek up the mountain on our mules! He smiled during the entire journey.
This was a typical narrow path through a village as I rode my mule to the nearby mountain summit and waterfall.
The mule refused to tackle this challenge, so I left it and walked across this wooden "bridge" to the other side. Crossing the bridge, I continued up a steep hill until I reached another beautiful waterfall just a short distance ahead. I eventually met up again with my mule, still looking at this bridge, and continued my journey through the hills and villages.
We finally made it to the remote waterfall near the top of the mountain. It was beautiful, surrounded by large rock formations and small, narrow trails. I spent some time here enjoying the beauty of the falls and the surrounding forest. The weather was perfect and the shade of the forest made the very hot day in Morocco bearable.
One of the small village I rode through located halfway up the hill on the right.
A beautiful landscape view of the valley at the foothills of the Atlas mountains.
A short slideshow of my recent travels to Morocco
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