Armenia
Sardarapat Museum
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I have had the opportunity to travel to Armenia several times.
The Armenians are proud people who have endured many hardships over the centuries but have overcome them and have created a lovely country with a wealth of music, great foods, and a strong culture.
The Armenians and Turks have a long history of resentment for each other, a carryover from the war they fought against each other in 1918.
On my visits to Armenia, I often traveled to the border of Armenia and Turkey. On my first visit to the border area, I was a bit shocked to see tanks dug in with their turrets pointing toward Turkey on the Armenian side and, although I could not get too close, I witnessed guard towers manned by Turkish soldiers on the other side.
This photo was taken on the grounds of the Armenian Genocide Museum located on the hill of Tsitsernakaberd in Yerevan, looking into Turkey.
Mt. Ararat, the biblical resting place for Noah's Ark is in the distance, covered in snow.
A lot of people wonder, is Armenia located in Europe or Asia? Many of them think that it is a part of Europe, but in reality, Armenia is located in Asia. One of the names of its geographical location is the Armenian Highland, which is situated on the northern border of Western Asia. The Armenian Highland is situated within Armenia, Georgia, Turkey, Azerbaijan, and Iran. The highest peak of the Armenian Highland is Mount Ararat – the symbol of Armenia.
I listed it under Europe on this website, as Armenia was associated with the Central Europe division of the company I had worked with. Many of the Armenians I got to know consider themselves European; however, Armenia is technically in Asia.
The Armenian Genocide memorial complex on the hill of Tsitsernakaberd in Yerevan. Every year on 24 April, the Armenian Genocide Remembrance Day, thousands of Armenians gather at the memorial to commemorate the victims of the genocide. The people who gather in Tsiternakaberd lay fresh flowers out of respect for all the people who died.
Yerevan, Armenia's capital, is less than 20 miles from the Turkish border and less than 25 miles from the border with Iran. Getting too close to either could be hazardous.
Teen girls at The Armenian Genocide memorial.
While I visited this Armenian sacred area, I was to witness many schoolchildren visiting the museum to learn the Armenian version of this genocide. I had been in the museum before, many of these and younger children and saw numerous photos that were very graphic depicting hangings, beheadings, and more. I wondered if young children should have been exposed to such things at their age.
Armenia has some of the best Persian tribal carpets in the world! One of my goals was to try to bargain and bring one of the old carpets back home with me. You have to be very careful though, old carpets are protected by the government as cultural treasures and you will need to have any that you buy over 100 years old certified before being allowed to remove it from the country. One more word of caution, they can be expensive and you need to know what you are buying.
I had wandered into a small family-owned antique carpet shop one afternoon just a few blocks from my hotel. The owners were from Iran and I later learned that they were keen bargainers!
As I was browsing, a unique carpet caught my eye. It was a donkey cart carpet, a water/oil vase, and a bag made in Marta Kert in the Karabakh region between Armenia and Azerbaijan. This is a well-known, independent, and still disputed region between Armenia and Azerbaijan prized for its unique tribal carpets. I had seen several examples of these donkey cart carpet bags in the Sardarapat museum a few days before and I was excited to see that I may have found an old one for sale.
Persian tribal carpet is prized worldwide, and one from the Karabakh region is considered an ultimate prize.
That is it in the photo beneath the silver tray. A beautifully woven, brightly colored carpet with intricate patterns covering this "saddlebag" type carpet. I was excited about the thought of owning this and began a three-hour "discussion" to bargain for it.
After many cups of dark and thick coffee, leaving the store to do some research and some real bargaining, we agreed upon a fair price. I received my certificate the next day, paid the agreed-upon price in Armenian Drams, and took possession of a treasure that now adorns my home!
While visiting the Sardarapat museum near Araks, I noticed several antique "saddle" bags used to cart water or oils. Seeing one in the carpet shop piqued my interest and the story of my finding and purchasing one in Yerevan for my own is one of my best travel experiences.
This photo is my treasured Persian tribal, donkey cart, and saddle bag. The "pockets" were used to carry vases of oil or water. Over 100 years old and still beautiful and functional! Notice the unique locking mechanism of knots built into the tops of both sections.
The Sardarapat Ethnography and Liberation Movement History Museum, in the Armavir Region, near Araks, is located on the grounds of the historic Battle of Sardarapat and part of the memorial park built in honor of the victory of the battle in 1918 against the Turks.
The exhibits are fairly typical for an ethnographic museum, beginning with local stones and minerals; pottery, urn, and millstones; and everyday household objects. The building is beautiful and the interior is built using local pink-colored stones.
Surrounding the park, just a short distance from the Turkish border, I spotted this apricot farmer tending her orchard.
Armenia is known for growing some of the best apricots on the planet. Apricot groves dot the countryside and I was lucky to be able to find many dried apricots in most places I visited.
As I was taking this photo through the closed door a staff member of the museum asked me why I was taking it. I told her I wished to have a photo looking out the door toward Turkey. She hesitated for a moment and informed me that I was not looking at Turkey but at Western Armenia! I considered asking her what she meant as the fortified Turkish border was within viewing distance, but figured that it might turn into an international incident!
The Battle of Sardarabat was a battle of the Caucasus Campaign of World War I that took place near Sardarabat, in May 1918, between the Armenian military units and militia on one side and the Ottoman army that had invaded Eastern Armenia on the other. It has been described by a Russian General " The significance of the battle of Sardarapat is great... If they [the Armenian forces] did not defeat the Ottomans there, they would have proceeded to Echmiadzin and Yerevan, nothing would have remained of Armenia, nothing would have been saved."
Driving on a rural road close to the Turkish border I was to see on the former battlegrounds both the beautiful apricot blossoms and the fortified border. Being less than half a mile from the border when I took this photo and seeing both sides' military installations confirmed my understanding of the political issues and potential danger here.
Vernissage Market in Yerevan is a very large, vibrant, outdoor market located in the main area of the city. This outdoor Flea Market has a great location, close to Yerevan's Republic Square on Tashir Street.
If you are looking for something to buy or even trade, you can probably find it here. I was to spend several hours here on each of my visits to Yerevan and was truly rewarded for my bargaining skills. If only I had my plane or truck, I could have easily filled it with beautiful handmade carpets, jewelry, art, and pretty much anything else I wanted. Here is a display of some of the brightly colored, hand-made, antique carpets for sale at the market.
The photo was taken in the Vernissage Market one morning. I love the hats made from parts of old carpet. As I look back now, I should have purchased one!
I did however purchase the carpetbag on the left as a gift.
More items for sale and to bargain for in the market. You could easily spend days here and never see the same items. I was impressed by how many items were made from beautiful old carpet remnants, hats, bags, vests, and more.
I love to experience the foods of the places I visit. Armenia has many different options, but one of my favorite local foods is lavash bread.
I was visiting the small village of Nalbandyan, located just yards from the Turkish border, when I had the opportunity to see the making of the lavash and witness the finished product. This bread will be cut into pieces and eaten with every meal.
Lavash is made in an outdoor, subterranean clay oven called a "Tonir" and only takes minutes to cook. It was a treat to watch the woman take the freshly made dough and simply throw it against the sides of the tonir where it stuck to the oven's hot wall and began baking. Within minutes, it was done.
Lavash has a place in nearly every Armenian dish, capable of being transformed into a spoon, a napkin, or a wrap. I looked forward to sitting for each meal and having the opportunity to enjoy this homemade delight.
Armenian cuisine, in general, belongs to a larger family of Caucasian cuisines, or those communities in and surrounding the Caucasus Mountains between the Black Sea and the Caspian Sea. Fellow “family members” of Armenian cuisine include the Persian, Turkish, Arabic, Georgian, and Greek cuisines.
These dolmas or grape leaves were stuffed with rice, minced meat, and vegetables, and served alongside roasted chicken and peas. A memorable and tasty meal!
Not far from the capital of Yerevan is the site of the oldest Christian cathedral in the world, Echmiadzin Cathedral. Located in the city of Vagharshapat (Etchmiadzin), Armenia. According to scholars, it was the first cathedral built in ancient Armenia and is considered the oldest cathedral in the world. Armenia was the first country to officially embrace Christianity in the first century.
As the main shrine of religious Armenian Apostolic Armenians worldwide, Etchmiadzin has been an important location in Armenia not only religiously, but also politically and culturally. For many centuries, Etchmiadzin was the national and political center of the stateless Armenian people. The area of Etchmiadzin is considered "a sanctified soil" in a way similar to Temple Mount and the Golden Temple, for Jews and Sikhs, respectively.
The church was built on the ruins of a pagan site and today is still used for worship. Surrounding the cathedral, on the beautiful grounds, is a monastery and museum.
Walking the streets of Yerevan is like exploring many cities in the world.
One morning I was walking along one of the main streets and came across this man selling lemons on the corner. At first, he was reluctant to have his photo taken, but after a few minutes allowed me to take this one. After I had taken it, I showed it to him and he smiled and seemed pleased.
On the same corner was a little store that I went into to get some change. It happened to be the store that this man had owned for years, and his family was now running. He was "retired " and he now spent his time selling lemons just outside his store.
I later went to a photo shop and printed several copies of this photo, returned, and gave him one. He was surprised and grateful, smiled, and thanked me. He then took the photo into his shop where he proudly showed his family. I gave the family a copy, and they too seemed pleased with this photo of "Poppy".
Poppy's store is now run by his children and grandchildren. I would pass it each day on my walk to the office. After I had given them the photo of Poppy they would stop me and offer me coffee and bread for my day.
One evening after dinner I decided to explore. By chance I found a small but very busy Hookah or Shisha bar. I don't smoke shisha but when in to take a look around.
The hookah bar was filled, and I sat in a seat surrounded by many people. I was surprised to find out that the people smoking and visiting together came from a number of neighboring countries. That night, I enjoyed a conversation with people from Iran, Turkey, and Armenia. A delightful and eye-opening evening with friendly and welcoming people.
I visited Armenia one time in the late fall. The weather in Yerevan was pleasant and a light jacket was all that was needed. After a few days, I was to travel north of the city and was told that I would probably need heavier clothes.
As we drove north, less than an hour after leaving Yerevan, it started to snow on what was already a fresh layer of deep snow. Just in a few short minutes and miles, the entire picture changed from a pleasant day in the city to a beautiful winter snow scene in the mountains.
This little boy had a farmer's wooden pitchfork in his hands and I wanted to take his photo. As I was setting the photo up and placing him in position he reached down, and picked up a snowball, and you can see how it turned out. A nice photo!
The late fall is not kind to the people here as the weather, poverty, and the rural setting located near the disputed areas with Azerbaijan make it a rugged and potentially dangerous area.
As I wandered through this small village, I passed this woman in front of her modest home. She was gathering wood, and as I passed she looked up and through the falling snow, I captured this image.
To the northeast of Yerevan lies the Sevan region, located on the border with Azerbaijan and close to Georgia.
This is a mountainous region and when I was there, had received lots of snow.
Lake Sevan is a 45-mile-long Alpine lake that yields plenty of sweet-tasting trout from its cold waters. I was to have the pleasure of tasting this treat several times while here.
This is a rural area and life here is hard, but like small rural areas everywhere I have traveled, the people are resilient and make the best of their situation.
Girls returning home from school.
Man returning from market
A short slideshow of my visits to Armenia.
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