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Huayna Picchu mountain towers over the ruins of Machu Picchu and the lost city. The top of the mountain was the residence of the high priest and the local virgins. Every morning before sunrise, the high priest with a small group would walk to Machu Picchu to signal the coming of the new day. You can trek to the top of this peak, but the numbers and times are limited, and you will need a permit.
What can I say? One of the new wonders of the world, Machu Picchu in Peru.
After a week of work in Lima, I flew to Cuzco where I spent a few nights in a very beautifully restored B&B. I was met by the owner who served me a welcoming cup of Coca tea. Cuzco is over 13,000 ft above sea level and it can be difficult to breathe. At this level, there is only about 65% of the oxygen available to you. My host shared with me that the tea would help to prevent altitude sickness.
Coca leaves are prevalent in Cuzco and it is common to simply purchase small bags of leaves in local stores to chew.
Cuzco is a relatively small colonial-era city with a rich tradition of the Inca past. I spent several days here wandering and getting acclimated to the altitude.
I have had many people say that I bring the sun with me, and this was not to be the exception. Beautiful warm weather during the day and cool, comfortable evenings welcomed me to Cuzco.
Cuzco has several old cathedrals in the central plaza and overall seems to cater to tourists as it is the gathering point for any trip to Machu Picchu. With that in mind, I set out on my never-ending quest to find a local native mask for my collection. I was lucky once again on this trip and found a beautiful carnival mask in an antique shop on one of the back alley streets not far from the main square. Click on the arrow at the "More" tab and then the "Mask Collection" at the drop-down to see it.
Walking through the old town proved to be a photographer's dream, and it wasn't too long before I spotted this woman walking with her llama through the narrow street not far from my hotel in the San Blas district of the city.
Central square in Cuzco.
Cuzco proved to be a great place to settle for several days. While there, I had my first traditional Inca meal. On the first day, I stopped at a restaurant next to the cathedral and ordered the traditional Inca soup with "Mystic Alpaca", quinoa, and noodles. The restaurant was world-class, and it was on the second floor to the left of the cathedral in the photo to the left.
The second course, alpaca tenderloins cooked in a trilogy of herbs and spices, chili pepper, huacatay, and maracuya, a small passion fruit, was exceptional and is pictured to the right. It was beautifully "plated" and served with purple rice.
I always like to try different foods, and in most cases, they agree with me. This certainly was the case with these two, and when I had the opportunity to order again, I did. Just don't drink the water!
Snow-covered peak in the Andes Mountain range. I believe it is Salcantay Mt. which is over 20,500 ft high.
After spending a few days in Cuzco, I boarded a train that took me through the Inca Trail and the Sacred Valley. A very relaxing trip that took me through sunrise, the beautiful mountains, the cities of Urubamba and Ollantaytambo, and finally the small frontier town of Aguas Calientes.
The train to Machu Picchu takes about 4 hours from Cuzco, but there is very little to be bored with. The terrain is magnificent, the service is great, the food is better, and every turn provides you with a new vista and photo opportunity.
The final stop and the only way then into Aqua Calientes at that time was by train. The small frontier village is a tourist town where every block is filled with locals selling Peruvian artifacts, trinkets, alpaca blankets, sweaters, hats, and everything else a tourist may want to bring back. If you search closely, though you can find great-priced, locally-made jewelry and other interesting things.
If you wish you can walk just out of the downtown and find some wonderful hot springs to play in.
With great weather and time to spare, I tried something that is considered a Peruvian delicacy, Coy (Coo We ) or guinea pig. Yes, I did order it and, it was very tasty. Roasted, covered with local spices, and served with a small salad and rice, it tasted a bit like rabbit meat. A bit small, you have to eat it with your hands, and yes, the head is brought to the table too!
I spent the night in Aguas Calientes for a reason. The tourists come by train and would not get into town until 10:30 am, I woke up before sunrise and could go to the site early and would have it mostly to myself for many hours.
After spending a night in the village, I traveled to Machu Picchu early the next morning, around 6. It had rained the evening before, and not many people were there. The rain had stopped, and the mist was eerily covering the site. This helped give it the feel of a mysterious lost city. A worker at the site told me that I should start at the bottom of the ancient city and work my way up. He explained that I would be alone there as the tourists would start at the top a few hours later in the morning. He also shared that by 10:30 the mist would be gone. I was pretty much alone, as most tourists don't come up from the village until their train arrives around 10. At this time, I was able to enjoy the time spent there, just me, the llamas, the mist, and the history and legends of the site. I could visualize the past inhabitants moving through the city.
As time passed, and as the man told me, the mist did indeed begin to burn off and allowed me to take some more photos, which would reveal many sites hidden by the early mist.
A great time spent there, one really big check off my "bucket list". Luckily, I was able to return for another visit a few years later!
Spending most of the day in these mysterious ruins was one of the highlights of my world adventures. It is one of those special places that is hard to explain what you feel when you are there. The Incas who built and lived here were truly incredible. The homes in the city were large, well-constructed, and many were two-story. The agricultural terraces were constructed close to the homes and served as stepping stones to the city as well as the farms for the crops. What happened to the civilization and people is still a mystery that may never be understood but I was glad to have had the experience to visit.
On one of my free evenings in Lima, I visited a local restaurant where there was live entertainment. A full night of great Peruvian food, drink, music, and native dancing. Very colorful and lots of fun. The local drink of choice, the Pisco sour, is great too, try one!
Lima has a nice feel to it, very European with many outdoor cafes, lots of shops, and great restaurants where the prices are very reasonable. I found the spices used by the Peruvian chefs to be incredible and the Peruvian food some of the finest I have ever had. The fresh ceviche was and still is the best I have ever eaten.
Exploring the city was a real treat. I hired a driver who would know the city well. I was able to see a wide variety of neighborhoods as well as the city center. The local market was huge and filled with fresh meats, fish, fruits as well as vegetables. Local chefs visit this place to find the best for their restaurants.
There are many really interesting and varied neighborhoods to see, each with its distinct flavor. Miraflores is an upscale and pricey area where the most famous restaurants are located. Baranco, just south of Miraflores is an artsy, Bohemian district full of cool restaurants, art, and bars.
No visit to Lima is complete without a visit to the historical district.
La Ermita Church,
Barranco District , Lima
Plaza de Armas Lima
Surquillo Market
Surquillo Market
This food hotspot is one of the best markets in Lima. Walking through, you can see a vast array of local vegetables you probably never heard of, dry goods, meat and poultry, spices, and many other rare food gems that can only be found in this local market.
Guard at the Presidential Palace
I found Lima to be an easy city to walk in, and I easily found many places of interest by myself. The bus system is easy and dependable so try it, easy and cheap.
On one of my visits to Lima, I happened to be in the city for the Easter Sunday celebrations. I had forgotten that it was a holiday, and as I exited the catacombs below the cathedral, I saw the religious procession marching up the street toward the church.
Returning to Lima from Cuzco for my last day, I had some free time before my flight later that evening. I took the time to visit the beaches and desert areas south of the Miraflores district in the city and found a nice restaurant that was named after an old legend. It seems that centuries ago, an old friar leaped off the cliffs here, and the legend has stuck. Outside my window, as I was eating a fine meal, this "friar" would jump off the cliff, return, and of course, be rewarded with some money for his feat, hence the restaurant's name, El Salto del Fraile, the friar's jump.
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