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Not many people travel to the Balkan country of Albania and I knew little of the country and its people. I did learn before leaving for my trip that I would meet the most friendly and hospitable people around. This proved to be close to the truth as I met many wonderful people who did everything to make sure that my visit was a great one.
The capital city of Tirana has transformed in the last several years and the center has become a thriving city that could rival many in eastern Europe. Tirana was full of many walkable tree-lined streets dotted with dozens of small cafes, bars, restaurants, and stores. Surrounded by tall beautiful mountains Tirana is a beautiful capital city.
Not long after the Soviets departed one mayor mandated that houses be painted in bright colors to enliven the dark grey dingy city and create civic spirit in a demoralized place. Crime declined, even the everyday crime of stealing electricity.
Tirana proved to be a welcomed surprise for me.
On my first full day in the country, I was introduced to a man named Ram, who wanted to show me the small town of Berat about a two-and-a-half-hour drive south of Tirana.
Ram is a friend of my host in Albania. When he found out that I would have some free time he volunteered his time to take me to this lovely and old historic city. Although Ram was Albanian, he had never been to Berat and this was to become an adventure for him too. Ram didn't speak much English and my host was concerned about how we would communicate with one another.
As in most countries, I visit this is the case and somehow I have always managed to not only communicate but to have wonderful times with people who didn't speak my language. It didn't seem to hinder Ram that I didn't speak Albanian and by the end of our day, we seemed to be able to communicate well.
We drove together for several hours, stopped for coffee, toured a castle, walked an ancient city, and had a wonderful lunch complete with Albanian wine all without speaking each other's language... a very interesting and successful day.
On our way to Berat, I noticed along the road on the mountainside dozens of what looked like concrete bunkers. Smaller in size compared to the ones I had seen in Normandy, but built very similarly in shape. I asked Ram what they were. He smiled at me and, through broken English, Albanian, and sign language, told me a story about how the Russian and Albanian soldiers would spend time in them waiting for the capitalist American attack. He just finished his story, looked at me, and smiled again.
I later learned that there are nearly 3/4 of a million of these bunkers in Albania! Spread all over the country, these bunkers would have served as a place the population could use in the event they had to defend their country. As this never happened, the post-communist country has found unique and ingenious uses for these, ranging from bars to storage sheds. On my last day in Albania, I was given a gift ashtray, a marble replica of a bunker that had a removable dome top.
An interesting fact about the communist regime is that they got rid of the Russians in the early 70s and became very close with the Chinese communists instead.
I am not exactly sure what this machine does, but through broken translation, I think it is how olive oil is made. He was eager to pose for me, so I took the photo to make him happy.
On the trip from Tirana to Berat, we passed numerous small villages. We stopped at one, parked the car on the side of the road, and walked through the local street market. Fresh vegetables, fruit, and plenty of famous Berat olives were all over the place, and the prices were very reasonable. These were some of the finest olives that I have ever tasted.
Often served with fresh onions, lemon, fresh pepper, and olive oil, I looked forward to ordering it with most of my meals.
Later on my return to Tirana, I purchased several kilos of just-picked tangerines for only $1.60.
Berat Castle, Kalaja e Beratit is built on a rocky hill on the left bank of the river Osum and is accessible only from the south. After being burned down by the Romans in 200 B.C. the walls were strengthened in the fifth century under the Byzantines and were rebuilt during the 6th century and again in the 13th century.
The main entrance, on the north side, is defended by a fortified courtyard and there are three smaller entrances. The fortress of Berat in its present state, even though considerably damaged, remains a magnificent sight. The surface that it encompasses made it possible to house a considerable portion of the city's inhabitants, about 1200 people still live within the walls.
I had the opportunity to run into Vaisil, one of the longtime castle residents who kindly gave me the "backstage" tour of the castle. The Quasimoto of Albania knew every part of the place and would climb up and down towers, and inside dangerous cisterns, all the time giving me a history lesson in his broken English.
The buildings inside the fortress were built during the 13th century and are preserved as cultural monuments. Over the centuries, the castle has had about 20 churches and a mosque, once used by the Turkish garrison.
This photo of the Byzantine church constructed in the 13th century was taken while "Quasimoto" and I hung precariously from a nearby ledge overlooking the city far below! Vaisil would run ahead and yell back at me. Like playing hide and seek he would pop in and out of sight like a child. He seemed to know every inch of the castle and lured me into places that I would have never found on my own. Several times he would grab my camera and climb places that were at best bordering on dangerous. He would call to me to smile and somehow, knowing how to use my complicated camera, would take photos of me.
The city of Berat is renowned for its historic architecture and scenic beauty. A UNESCO World Heritage site, Berat was one of the most important Albanian cities during the Ottoman era, and a major craft center specializing in wood carving. Today, it is one of the best-preserved Ottoman cities in the Balkans. What makes Berat so special are its traditional Balkan-style houses that climb up the side of the hill upon which the 13th-century Berat Castle is situated. Berat is known as the "City of a Thousand Windows".
This white cobblestone road was the only way up to the castle from the city. Winding up the mountain, this part of the city had a very old and somewhat Greek feel. As you walk, you pass small homes, shops, restaurants, and even a small, quaint hotel. The walk took about half an hour, but seeing the village and its people was worth it.
As always, the return trip downhill was much easier, and Ram and I chose to stop and have lunch in a great little restaurant in a small hotel at the end of the road. While walking down the road, we would pass many of the locals returning from their grocery shopping and children coming home after their day in school. Most looked at us with curiosity and smiled.
Of course, every visit to another culture and country always challenges my stomach. I must say that the foods of Albania were some of the best I have ever had. Imagine a mixture of Turkish, Italian, and Greek foods, all made with fresh ingredients and most homemade! Add the pasta, kebabs with their unique spices, and the olives and you are in culinary heaven. Albanian wines are also good, as are the local beers. Watch out for the homemade Raki, the moonshine of the locals. Take the cap off the Coke bottle it is stored in, and the paint could peel off the walls! I was fortunate to have been given a full bottle, right out of the still, to take home with me!
This photo of a menu from one of the restaurants in Berat speaks volumes. Ram had suggested the mixed meat plate and I ordered it and didn't ask. When the order came to the table, I just enjoyed the meal, not knowing or daring to know what I had just eaten! (The brain was quite evident, though) Next time I will look at the menu before ordering!
Located about an hour north of Tirana is the small city of Kruje located in the Albanian Alps. Kruje is known for its 400-year-old bazaar and market. I traveled here to do some shopping and bargaining. As in many places I have visited the best locally made treasures can be found off the beaten path. This great old market with over 200 small stores is located at the foot of the old castle.
I spent some time here negotiating with the local artisans and walked away with several great items and gifts to bring home including this beautiful, handmade, brightly colored wool carpet.
There are lots of unique handmade items to shop for. I always try to find something homemade by a local that I can bring home and display in the house. It adds beauty to the house and memories of my trips.
In Kruje, I purchased the beautiful carpet as well as these gorgeous hand-made glass earrings made by this local artisan. He shared with me that he had been requested by the White House a few years before my trip to make a bowl using the same glass technique as a gift for then-First Lady Hillary Clinton. Very delicate and beautiful, they made a great gift.
One thing that I have noticed in my trips to former Soviet countries in eastern and central Europe is the black leather jacket "phenomenon" among the men! I can't explain it, but it seems that this may have been a leftover style inspired by the Russians before they left.
The fortress on the hill in Kruje.
On the road again and arriving in Kruje, we passed several mosques. This one was located on a hill overlooking the small city.
Albania has a majority Muslim population, but you would not recognize it as a Muslim community. The Muslims I met told me that their religion is an ancient one that has been handed down for centuries, but they are not practicing the same as in the strongly religious countries. They shared with me that some will drink alcohol and even eat pork.
The major religions seem to function well together and never did I feel that one had more influence than the other. In most of the towns I visited, they seemed to be equally practiced or at least observable through their churches or mosques. The call for prayer as well as the sound of church bells seemed natural in the towns.
A short slideshow, with a traditional Albanian folk song, of my visit through Albania.
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