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Parked in front of the hotel, several tuk-tuk drivers were asleep in their tuk-tuks. The bellman woke one up and asked him if he would take me to the site. He was more than willing to take me and quickly dressed. For about $6, he would drive me out to the site, wait for me, bring me back to the hotel for a nap, and take me back out to the site again when I wanted.
We agreed to the terms and then drove on a narrow paved road through the jungle to the site. It was pitch black, with no streetlights or electricity. The tuk-tuk had a small headlight that could cast enough light for us to find our way along the narrow dirt road to the entrance.
Our first stop was at the ticket booth which opened around 4:45. With my photo ID ticket in hand, we headed to the Mote Bridge at the temple. It was still dark when I entered the site, and it was my luck that I carried a small flashlight with me. Without this small light I would have never made it over the moat bridge or through the narrow dirt path that leads to this place near the lake, nor could I have taken this photo of the sunrise at Angkor Wat. I was able to set up my equipment, rent a small chair and a cup of hot tea from a vendor, and wait for the sun to rise.
Surviving a long 22-hour series of flights to Siem Reap I finally reached my hotel around 11 pm. I tried to fall asleep but I woke up around 3 am and found myself quite awake. After taking a quick shower I waited for some time and eventually went down to the hotel lobby around 4. I asked the bellman if he could find a tuk-tuk that would take me to the temples at Angkor Wat just a short distance from my hotel.
My Tuk-Tuk driver
The $6 I paid my driver was good for the whole day and as many trips as I wanted. I witnessed the sunrise over Angkor Wat, explored the old temple for a few hours, and then returned to the hotel for breakfast and a short nap. I returned to the temples later that afternoon to continue my adventure and exploration of the numerous temples that dotted the area returning to my hotel after sunset.
On my first full evening in Cambodia, my hosts invited me to dine with them. They took me outside the city to a rural restaurant named the Bamboo Shack.
The Bamboo Shack consisted of about 10 small covered pier-like structures built on stilts in a lake. A narrow wooden deck connected all the open wooden "rooms".
Your meal cost was based on chicken heads, or how many chickens were used in the meal. Each pier room had several hammocks that you could sit in but dinner was served on a woven mat on the floor. This is the traditional way Cambodians eat their meals. I knew I was in for a different experience but didn't expect several of the choices offered to me.
This photo shows a small bowl filled with fermented fish paste, and rice flour mixed with ants...called prahoc angkrong. The Lonely Planet guide refers to it as "almost a biological weapon." Unique to Cambodian cuisine, prahoc angkrong is a popular fish-based condiment, made by fermenting whole fish, or chunks of fish, with ground rice flour and salt, and then mixed with red ants gathered from the inside of a citrus tree.
Yes, I tried it and it was pretty good, including the citrus-flavored, crunchy texture of the large red-colored ants. A side dish filled with my chicken's liver, lungs, gizzard, and feet took a few minutes to get the courage to eat, but the spicy sauce and vegetables cooked with it added to the taste.
During my visit, I was to try some foods that were very new to me, fried pig's ear, pig's tongue, eel, whole frogs, fried bat, and an array of insects. This photo of crickets cooked in a spicy sauce with green onion was one of my surprise dinners. Very tasty.
Tarantula is a common food for Cambodians. Here you see yet another surprise offered to me one evening. My friends ordered it in Cambodian and as it was brought to the table waited as I looked at it. I understood what it was and did try the spider's legs.... a bit like roasted crab leg cooked in a very spicy sauce! I later learned that the hairs on the spider's body and legs burn off during the initial deep-frying process and the parts are then mixed into the dish. Only ate the legs, actually afraid to eat the abdomen which contained the venom.
Getting used to the variety of foods offered to you by the locals can be quite trying. Most foods here are great but getting past the insects, spiders, bats, and frogs can be an experience.
It was no wonder that one morning I woke up a bit sick to my stomach. My colleague asked me what my symptoms were and she went into a small storefront. Within minutes she came back holding a small 2" square plastic bag that contained several pills. She instructed me to take them and that I would soon feel better. I still don't know what was in that bag, but not too long after taking the pills I did indeed feel much better and continued with my journey.
The one "food" I refused to even consider was the duck fetus seen in the photo on the right. I was with several friends in a small town on the Thai border. They asked me if I wanted some eggs and I was fortunate that I wasn't hungry. What looked like normal boiled eggs turned out to be duck fetuses complete with little beaks and wet feathers. This is another delicacy called Balut, that my friends enjoy. Sorry, I just couldn't do it!
The worst-smelling food I have ever had though was here. A southeast Asian fruit called Durian. The best description is a creamy inside that stunk like very dirty feet! It is so bad it is banned in public places such as movies, airports, and most places where the public may gather, you get the picture!
This sign hung outside a restaurant on one of the main streets of Siem Reap said enough... although they didn't serve these items, the live crocs in small pits surrounding the tables made my experience there a bit frightening! Glad I didn't drink too much here, would not have wanted to fall into one of these pits!
Typical Cambodian home. The 'downstairs" is used regularly for social occasions. I actually facilitated a community meeting under one like this.
Group meeting under a house in village
Woman bathing in river. While driving in Cambodia this may be a common sight.
At the west gate of Ta Prohm, I saw this child playing in the dirt and stones of the temple. As everywhere in the world, children are curious about strangers and this was the case for this child.
Many of the locals wait for "tourists" to come by to sell trinkets, food, fruit, and water. The circus atmosphere quickly changes as soon as you enter the gate and begin to experience the ancient temple sites.
The temple at Ta Prohm is located several kilometers east of the large temple compound of Angkor Thom. Not visited by as many tourists as the major temples, it is the one that seems the most exotic and "lost". It was built in the 12th century but wasn't discovered until the 20th century. It has not had as much restoration compared to the others and the feeling that you are deep in the Cambodian jungle is evident. I saw very few people and luckily had the place nearly to myself. It felt a bit eerie to walk the labyrinth passages alone, but it turned out to be an exciting time and well worth it.
Standing alone at the temple can elicit quite an intense feeling of being taken back in time. The sounds of the jungle were intense and added to the already surreal atmosphere. The most prevalent sound was the very high-pitched, very loud, constant sound of the locust. As you exit a temple and enter the jungle, the sound seems to be everywhere. At times it would cease, and just when you had forgotten about it the sound and pitch would rise again.
Under the canopy of the giant trees that seemed to blanket the old temples, the air was cooler and more tolerable, making my explorations very comfortable and rewarding.
I spent the day visiting several other sites that surround Angkor Wat. All are impressive and rather spooky. That is me in the "Lara Croft, Tomb Raider " site depicted in the movie. It is part of Ta Prohm a site that seems consumed by the jungle. Notice the tree roots growing on and around the temple. Their finger-like roots added to the mysterious and spooky feel of the area.
The temples at Angkor Wat are a vast array of linked areas that have different purposes. The magnitude of the complex and the ancient city is incredible. I can only imagine what living here in its glory time must have been like.
Angkor Thom's Bayon temple is one of the most impressive places I have seen. This temple is located almost two miles north of Angkor Wat's main temple, and it took my breath away. I was lucky to have it virtually to myself and spent quite a bit of time exploring this great place. The Bayon's most distinctive feature is the multitude of serene and smiling stone faces on the many towers that jut out from the upper terrace and cluster around its central peak. The 200 large faces that seem to come out of every direction are magnificent and quite detailed. Each with eyes closed, representing the all-knowing state of inner peace, and perhaps even a state of Nirvana.
As you wander through the temple, even though their eyes are closed, you get the feeling that they are watching you, and in reality, there is never a time that one isn't!
Front view of Bayon Temple. Notice the seated Buddha in the entranceway.
There are also many complicated and exquisite bas-reliefs around the temple, with scenes depicting land and naval warfare, market scenes, and others depicting the construction of the temple itself.
One evening, my hosts took me to a wonderful restaurant that had a live dance show performed by young, local dancers. Sampling the local Khmer foods, drinking the local Angkor beer, and watching a show of local ritual Apsara dancers was a great way to spend the evening.
Siem Reap proved to be a wonderful experience and a great little city. Clean, safe, and easy to move about, it had the charm and flavor of Cambodia and the French influence of the colonial past. Walking through the old market, surrounded by many restaurants, you could not help but enjoy the smell of the fried ginger and lemongrass coming from them.
Cambodia was a French colony for a long time and the Cambodians have mastered the art of making French bread and pastries. Mix these wonderful aromas and you have a classic little city with much charm. Sitting in an outdoor cafe sampling the local teas and people-watching was a great way to pass the afternoon after bargain shopping at the old market!
The night market is another place to bargain but this one seems to be more catered to tourists.
Early one morning I hired a tuk-tuk to take me to the floating village of Chong Kneas located south of Siem Reap on Tonle Sap Lake. The Tonle Sap is the largest freshwater lake in Southeast Asia and one of the richest inland fishing grounds in the world. The lake feeds the Mekong River basin into Vietnam.
After about a half-hour ride I arrived at the shore of the lake and then hired a boat to take me through the village which literally floats on the lake. It moves as the lake waters rise and fall and at this time, the dry season had moved the entire village several miles. As my boat wandered through the "canals" made by the settlement I passed a working village complete with floating stores, a school, a church, and many "homes". The people moved about the village in their small boats, carrying on their daily routines.
This was one of my most memorable adventures. This floating village excited my senses as everywhere I turned my boat passed through the canals created by the village. I was to experience many more opportunities for memorable photos. Colorful, unique, and busy, I spent several hours here and enjoyed every moment!
I stopped for a snack at one of the small floating stores in the village. While there I found a floating store where I was able to purchase some school supplies that I would later donate to the floating school during a visit that afternoon.
I spotted this young girl in her pajamas stepping out on the edge of her houseboat early in the morning. To my amazement, she walked to the edge, squatted, reached into the water, and pulled out this live water snake that had to be at least as long as this girl was tall. I was almost too stunned to snap a photo, but I did, and while I snapped this photo, I asked my boat driver what she was doing. He let out a great loud laugh, turned to me with a smile, and simply said, "Breakfast".
This woman was the floating "Wal Mart" and carried on her boat all types of goods. She would float to each house and park while the people purchased what they needed from her. A great way to shop! She had everything from pots, and school supplies as well as fuel and food. Cash only!
I was able to find several more temples and a great outdoor restaurant while in the area. Covered with netting in order to keep the butterflies in, the Butterfly Garden provided me with an outdoor sanctuary surrounded by thousands of floating butterflies as I ate lunch and enjoyed my last day in Cambodia.
Many temples dot the country. I was fortunate to have wandered upon the temple at Wat Bo one morning as I was walking through the back streets of Siem Reap. In Cambodia, a wat is any place of worship. As it was early morning, I saw many of the young monks going about their daily chores after their morning prayers. The monks were very friendly and seemed to enjoy my presence, stopping to greet me as I wandered.
As I stopped to take some photos, one monk walked into the picture and began to apologize. I said that it was unnecessary. He and I began to speak, and he told me that he wanted to practice English. He said that the only time he hears English is through the radio, through an Australian station, which explains the accent in his English. He introduced himself as Tan.
I asked Tan if he had the time to walk with me and show me the Wat. Tan happily agreed. He and I spent the rest of the morning walking through the temple and grounds, speaking English and learning about our lives. He showed me some places that tourists wouldn't come across and introduced me to several other young monks in their living area.
Tan and I exchanged email information, and after a great discussion, tour, and photos, I left the temple to wander through the back streets of Siem Reap once more.
Cambodia's recent history has been plagued with a vicious and brutal civil war.
The Khmer Rouge under Pol Pot nearly destroyed the rich culture of this beautiful country and its people. They systematically tortured and killed millions during their period of control.
Although the war is over there are many reminders still left of this period in history. Numerous minefields still dot the country and continue to kill both animals and humans. Signs like this one are very common in the rural parts of the country. While moving through these posted areas I took great care to follow my guides or the locals, who were all too familiar with the dangers in the area.
Mines were not the only munitions left behind from the wars in Cambodia during the 70s. Cluster bombs rained down in many of the rural areas of the country, causing thousands of deaths. Like the mines, the cluster bombs remain unexploded in the fields throughout Cambodia. After many decades, they can still be found and continue to maim thousands each year. Children often mistake these small bomblets for toys in the field and try to play with them.
I met this boy in a small village in the Khmer region of North Western Cambodia near the borders of Laos and Thailand. He had lost his left arm to an unexploded munition that he had picked up. Although missing his arm, he was outgoing and playful. Here, he demonstrated to me how he could hunt birds using his slingshot and mouth. He was an excellent shot and an inspiration to me, and I am sure others.
The notorious "Killing Fields," where thousands were killed has been preserved to never forget this period of civil war. There are several of these sites around the country, the most notable one being near Phnom Phen. I was able to hire a tuk-tuk and take the short drive south of the city and visit the fields, a very sobering experience.
It is not uncommon, particularly after heavy rain for human bones to rise to the surface here. To my horror, I came across this leg bone during my visit.
Wat Ek Phnom is a temple located on the left side of the Sangkae River at the small creek of Prek Daun Taev, approximately 9 km north of the city of Battambang in northwestern Cambodia. It is a Hindu temple built in the 11th century under the rule of King Suryavarman I.
An enormous white-stone sitting Buddha statue leads to the modern Buddhist pagoda Ek Phnom. The pagoda opens the way to the ruins of the ancient Hindu temple. The ancient temple, built of sandstone blocks and enclosed by the remains of a laterite outer wall and a Baray, consists of small temples on a platform.
The bas-reliefs depict events of Hindu mythology mostly referring to Krishna the major God of Hinduism.
Mostly reduced to ruins today only the main towers of the temple remain standing whose upper flanks hold some fine bas-reliefs.
Phnom Penh, Cambodia’s busy capital, sits at the junction of the Mekong and Tonlé Sap rivers. It was a hub for both the Khmer Empire and French colonialists. On its walkable riverfront, lined with parks, restaurants, and bars, are the ornate Royal Palace, Silver Pagoda, and the National Museum, displaying artifacts from around the country. At the city’s heart is the massive, Art Deco Central Market. The Central Market is located in a beautiful building and is a great place to shop. Inside reminded me of a mall that you may find in the US without ornate glass windows and doors.
Outside the main building resembles many of the markets in South East Asia, with lots of food and items used every day by the locals.
You will find many varieties of foods ranging from grilled squid, fish, crickets, fried bats, and tarantula. There are many stalls where you can find just about anything. I found that the Russian market, located a few miles south of the Central market to be a bit more traditional and much more fun to shop in.
Wat Phnom is a Buddhist temple located in Phnom Penh, Cambodia. It was built in 1372 and stands 27 meters above the ground. It is the tallest religious structure in the city. The pagoda was given the name of Wat Preah Chedey Borapaut. Wat Phnom is the central point of Phnom Penh.
Young Monks visiting Wat Phnom
I never understood the safety precautions here. The driver was wearing a helmet, but the other three on the scooter, yes, three, had nothing? This was a very common sight around the country.
Lots of monks, everywhere!
Rural Cambodia still had a feel of the old American West with small towns, dusty roads, and wooden sidewalks between old wooden buildings. Instead of horses, there are plenty of small motor scooters darting around. With landmines still a danger, I knew that it would be a dangerous place to wander off the beaten path to take photos.
Spending a night in the city of Battambang, I didn't expect to see this sign on my hotel room door prohibiting the items depicted. No machine guns, pistols, knives, grenades, illegal drugs, animals, prostitutes, and no cooking in your room!
I wondered if I should have slept with one eye open.
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