I always enjoy traveling in Ireland! It is true, it is the Emerald Island. The countryside is always a brilliant and vivid green, lush and often a bit wet, but beautiful.
In Ireland, I try to avoid cities and spend my time exploring the rural countryside. This is where I generally meet the friendliest people and where the local pubs have a community flavor.
I enjoy just driving, although driving in Ireland is a nightmare, and just bumping into places off the beaten path. I have found the greatest adventures doing this, finding everything from ram sheep whose eyes glowed green at four in the morning waiting for the sun to rise, to a hurling match.
I have had the pleasure of driving through a good portion of the country and finding great places off the beaten path. One of my favorite drives took me along the western coast from Galway along the winding coast road, through the bogs of Connemara ending up eventually in Clifden for the night.
One of my favorite places is the Connemara district just north of Galway. The small Victorian village of Clifden overlooking the sea and the Aran Islands is a must see. This area still speaks Gaelic and of course, the street signs are Gaelic too, making getting lost an easy task!
One day, while I was driving outside of Kilkenny, I left the main road and followed a small country road for a few miles. With my car window open, I could hear the sound of rushing water and what sounded like a waterfall. I parked my car on the side of a bog field and began to walk on a small and very slippery dirt path through the brambles and trees until I came upon this waterfall and stream. I had my lunch with me so I decided to sit down under a tree and enjoy this beautiful sight. After a few minutes, I saw fish jumping similar to the way you would expect salmon heading upstream. I saw several fish that afternoon doing this, but never did get the photo to capture it!
Making my way back on the small road, I passed a small village where I saw a playing field surrounded by people. I decided to stop there got out of my car, and walked to the field. I was glad to see my first hurling match. A very rough game that did look like fun.
Driving south of Kilkenny, I ran across the small village of Knocktoffer. The remains of an ancient church provided a great place to stop and snap a few images. This old church and cemetery proved to be much more than a few images, as there was plenty to see in this abandoned spot.
This old tomb near the church was accessible, and it was evident that someone had been taking care of it. I have no idea of the age of the tomb but it was an interesting photo op.
The pubs in the small villages act as the village gathering spot, and seeing families with their children in the pubs is common. I was fortunate to see and hear several groups of locals playing traditional music while I ate my Irish stew.
This pub was one of my favorites in Waterford. I found it very interesting that at this time in Ireland's pubs... smoking was not allowed, way ahead of the US!
It was close to Christmas and I was treated to a beautifully holiday-lit Waterford, famous for its magnificent crystal.
Driving in Ireland can be one of the most blood-pressure-raising experiences one can have. Just the difference of driving on the other side of the road on very narrow and sometimes wet roads can drive one mad.
Once out of the cities, you would think it gets better but now you have to deal with the many sheep that have claimed the road. Driving, however, does have its advantages, like finding out-of-the-way places and keeping to your schedule.
On one of my visits, I was fortunate one afternoon when I came across the old John Locke whiskey distillery near Kilbeggen. I decided to have lunch as I sat in the field of flowers and took this shot.
On a freezing afternoon in Dungarvan, I found on the harbor, an old pub to warm up and have something to eat. The pub was full of many locals and working fishermen. This place had such an authentic feel to it that I knew there would be a memorable photo somewhere. As I was waiting for some soup that I had ordered, I happened to look out of the window next to the old wooden table I was seated at and noticed these rowboats mired in the mud and ice at low tide in Dungarvan harbor.
Not bothering to put on my coat I stepped outside and composed this photo. Cold and a bit wet, and now satisfied that I captured the image I returned to a hot bowl of Irish soup and some interesting conversations with the locals!
Ancient stone wall along the southeastern coast
Country church off of the country road between Kilkenny and Waterford
Galway was a wonderful find. I knew that it was a music city that was fueled by the university there. Located on the west coast in the Connemara district, this area seemed the most "Gaelic" of the places I visited. Outside the city along the beautiful and rugged coastline, you will find signs in the Gaelic language and many folks speak it.
I found my way to Richardson's pub and was able to get a nice room at a great price above the place. What an experience.
My first meal here was at the famous deli Mcdonaghs. Family-operated since 1902, it serves traditional fish and chips. What a treat eating off of old newspapers surrounded by hungry college students.
I happened to find a great pub, The King's Head just up the street, and spent many hours enjoying the people, Guinness, and local music.
The area around the harbor was beautiful. The old Spanish Arch was my gateway to a very nice, late evening stroll along the waterfront. A working harbor, I was to see many fishing rigs tied up waiting for the next day's catch.
The harbor on this foggy evening was beautiful in its own way. There were few people there and I was able to savor this beautiful place for myself.
I was able to enjoy Galway and the area along the coast for several days. This quaint and unique area is a must see if you visit Ireland. Skip the direct road to Clifden and spend a great few hours driving the coast road toward Roundstone and then through the bogs to Clifden.