Tunisia is a country of contrasting terrain and cultures. With its coast along the Mediterranean Sea to the Sahara, you can travel within a few hours and be in a completely different place. With its distinctly French, Italian, and Arab flavor, you witness changes from food to culture in just a short time.
One day I experienced sleeping in a cave. riding a camel for hours, and finally enjoying a homemade dinner in an Amazigh, "Berber" tent in the Sahara.
This troglodyte cave is typical of the homes in this area. For centuries the locals have constructed their homes inside the earth. The homes are comfortable and stay at a very nice temperature all year round.
Not far from this cave-dwelling several Star Wars movies were filmed. One morning I took the time to travel to one site which has been preserved just as it was in the movie. A real treat!
To experience the Sahara is something special. Riding a camel with just a few others around you awakens your senses. You would think that you would become bored quickly, but it is just the opposite. The sight of the rolling desert with its golden dunes is mesmerizing. One word of caution, the wind will whip up the sand and play havoc with your cameras. Bring a plastic bag to cover your equipment, or you will be forced to spend a lot of time trying to clean the grit from your lenses. The wind and sand will quickly ruin a camera and your face in a very short time!
Thanks Trish for taking this photo of me!
I had reached this spot in the Sahara on the back of a very fine camel. After hours of bumping up and down, we reach our destination. Playing in the dunes, I waited for the sunset and was able to capture some spectacular photos of the shadows the sunset played on the dunes.
After the sun had set I returned to this Bedouin camp where we had initially left our camels to explore the dunes.
My host had prepared a genuine and simple Amazigh, "Berber" meal for our dinner.
With candles as our only light we all sat around a wooden table, sitting on woven mats on the soft sandy floor we enjoyed our home-cooked meal!
After our meal, our cook and his son began playing the drums and singing for us. What an experience, exploring and playing in the Sahara, a beautiful sunset, and a great traditional meal made for one of the most memorable experiences in my life.
My hosts sang and played the tribal drums after dinner.
My host cooking a traditional Tunisian dinner on a portable gas stove in the tent.
Sidi Bou Said lies about a thirty-minute drive from Tunis. It is a city of beautiful blue and white buildings dating back centuries. Most of the buildings are made of an adobe-like material, whitewashed a bright white with doors and windows painted a beautiful sea blue color.
As you wind through the small, alley-like stone streets of this city, you come upon building after building that, although similar in color, seem individually a bit different. The villagers have taken much time to personalize their space to reflect their styles.
As you wander the streets, you are often overwhelmed with the wonderful sights, the smell of food cooking from the homes, and the sounds of the call for prayer coming from the numerous Mosques in each city.
A few short kilometers from this village is the historic city of Carthage.
The Roman influence is also very visible in Tunisia. The Roman Empire thrived here for many years and its influences are evident in the foods, culture, people, and architecture.
I was lucky to have had the time and opportunity to visit one of the finest preserved coliseums left in the world, El Jem. To walk in the footsteps of ancient gladiators, to sit in the same rooms underground where they sat centuries ago waiting for their next battle, was another experience that will stay with me forever.
Not far from these ruins was a great museum that had rooms filled with original Roman mosaic tile murals. This is one of the most beautiful collections of this type of work I have ever seen.
Over two thousand years old and in better shape than its slightly larger cousin in Rome this coliseum is a world treasure. With few tourists or crowds, in magnificent condition and very accessible this is worth the trip to Tunisia alone.
When I visited less than a dozen people were there. Walking through the structure's vast halls and tunnels alone and imagining what it was like over two centuries ago will last with me forever.
Baker delivers freshly baked baguettes.
Traveling through the country proved to be a real adventure and a great photo experience.
In the small town of Mahdia, I spotted these men playing a card game. They were so engrossed in the game that they didn't notice me taking this photo of them in the city marketplace. The small town was a great place to visit and experience the "real" feel of Tunisia.
As you move farther away from the capital, you will see more of the traditional dress and culture of the country.
The desert of Tunisia, close to Matmata, is one of the sites used for the filming of several episodes of STAR WARS. I was fortunate to be able to visit where the numerous scenes were filmed. I was a bit surprised that this site was still intact and in fairly good shape. The site still has the original decorative windows and doors, and building materials that make you know that you are on the movie site. It was fun to wander around and know that Skywalker and his pals were once here too.
One of the remaining STAR WARS set buildings
Just before the sun went down I began to wander around this site which was close to the cave-dwelling (troglodyte) cave where I was to spend the night. The light was low and very poor for photography. As I was about to return to my cave I sensed a movement and as I turned I saw a true troglodyte, a cave dweller who swiftly moved past me. Startled at first, he reminded me of one of the sand people in STAR WARS and I was able to capture a quick, although a bit fuzzy photo of life in this desert village.
Just a few miles west of one of the original STAR WARS movie location sites is the small city of Tamezret. Built in the desert on a small hilly area, the city takes you back centuries.
The locals here do not see many outsiders, and spending time here proved to be worth it. We were able to meet a local woman weaving small prayer rugs that she regularly sold at the market, and after admiring one, she graciously sold it to us at a very reasonable price! That is it, the red one hanging in front of the woman's home.
Leaving the city took a little time and navigation. This shepherd and his goats strolled down the only road out of the Tamezret, and they were in no hurry to move!
In each town and small village, you can see some of the most elaborate and decorative doors anywhere. The door is an interesting part of the home. The outside of many homes seemed mostly nondescript except for these types of doors. Once inside the homes turn into palaces!
One interesting fact, the doors are tall, and as explained to me the lower knockers were reserved for women to use, and the ones on the top of the doors were used by men on camels. The difference in size meant a different sound, which allowed the occupants to know if a man or woman was visiting. This allowed the women inside to be prepared and put on their traditional head covering when necessary.
Shopping in Tunisia is an art and a sport. Everywhere you go, you will see people bartering and you too will have to barter for anything you wish to buy. It is expected, and they are good at it. In the end, I usually got lucky and found the right and fair price for what I purchased.
The medina in Tunis is similar to those in many North African cities. I can compare it to the back streets and souks in Marrakesh. Lots to buy, noisy, colorful, and easy to get lost!
Tunisia has many miles of beautiful Mediterranean coastline. Warm with crystal clear blue waters, there is plenty to do, from sunning, swimming, or boating. Don't miss the wonderful coastal cities and the superb choice of local seafood!
A short slideshow of my travels through Tunisia