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Discovering a Mermaid in Lisbon
Pena Palace is a vibrant Romanticist palace with colorful facades, intricate designs, and great views. It's a must-see for its architectural and historical significance.
SINTRA
My travel through Portugal began in the city of Sintra. Just a 20-minute drive from Lisbon, Sintra offers a wealth of attractions. These sites showcase the region's unique blend of Romanticist, Moorish, and Gothic architecture.
Pena Palace castle stands on the top of a hill in the Sintra Mountains overlooking the town of Sintra. It is a national monument and is one of the major examples of 19th-century Romanticism in the world.
The palace is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of the Seven Wonders of Portugal. It is also used for state occasions by the President of the Portuguese Republic and other government officials.
Pena Palace is known for its colorful, fairytale-like appearance. It was built as a summer residence for King Ferdinand II in the 19th century. The palace also features beautiful, sprawling gardens and offers views of the Sintra hills and the surrounding area.
Sintra is a charming town, known for its stunning palaces, castles, and natural beauty. It's located in the Sintra Mountains, and is a popular destination for day trips from Lisbon.
Sintra boasts a rich history, with influences from the Moors and Portuguese royalty, evident in its architectural wonders and cultural landscape.
Azenhas do Mar
is a picturesque coastal village northwest of Sintra. This sleepy village offers breathtaking views with its cliffside houses and stunning beach backdrop.
At the bottom of a cliff is a small beach with rocks that retain the water at low tide, forming a natural pool.
I visited in the early morning and found most of this area covered by fog and mist, but I was able to explore the village, taking in the cliffside viewpoints, walking along the natural ocean pool, and wandering at the famous cliffside restaurant.
OBIDOS
Encircled by a ring of medieval walls and crowned by the Moorish castle, Óbidos is one of the most perfect examples of a medieval fortress. The town is adorned by bougainvilleas, winding streets, and colorful houses.
Obidos looks as if it was right out of a movie set. There is no fee to walk through the ancient gate and into a small intimate village full of numerous small, mom and pop shops.
You could easily spend an entire day here, enjoying the history as you wander through the narrow cobblestone streets lined with shops. Local pastries and a locally produced cherry-based alcohol are a must-try.
If you are in a hurry, visiting for just a few hours is very doable. Trish and I enjoyed a simple lunch here before heading out to Coimbra.
The famous alcoholic beverage found in Óbidos, Portugal, is ginja or ginjinha, a sour cherry liqueur. The town is particularly well-known for serving this traditional drink.
The drink is a sweet and strong liqueur made from infusing ginja berries (Morello cherries) in a spirit, often a fruit brandy, along with sugar and sometimes cinnamon. It is served in a small glass resembling a shot glass.
COIMBRA
I spent a short time in Coimbra and was able to experience several local activities while here. Walking in the old town near the ancient Roman aqueduct, you will find several beautiful and peaceful parks.
Coimbra, a riverfront city in central Portugal and the country’s former capital, is home to a preserved medieval old town and the historic University of Coimbra. First established in Lisbon in 1290, it went through a number of relocations until moving permanently to Coimbra in 1537.
Walking the ancient streets in the old town you will feel that you have gone back in time. Cobblestone streets, wooden arched windows and old style architecture make this part of Coimbra very welcoming.
Old Cathedral of St Mary of Coimbra (Sé Velha)
One evening, I found myself near this old cathedral. Lit at night, it was the perfect scene to put you back in medieval times. (Sé Velha) as it is known, was built in the 12th century, with construction beginning after King Afonso Henriques declared himself king in 1139, and is a well-preserved example of a fortress-like Romanesque cathedral.
Part of the cathedral is now a working restaurant where you can hear traditional Fado music every evening. You can order dinner, have a drink, and enjoy the music for free.
Coimbra fado is a genre of fado originating in the city of Coimbra. It was adopted by students at the University of Coimbra, and sometimes known as student fado, it is usually considered the typical music of Coimbra itself.
Performed with the traditional Guitarra de Coimbra (a kind of Portuguese guitar originating in Coimbra), a modified version of Lisbon's fado guitar, it is usually accompanied by classic acoustic guitar and male voices.(Wikipedia)
It's widely believed that J.K. Rowling was inspired by the academic attire of University of Coimbra students, with their traditional black capes and suits, for the Hogwarts uniforms in the Harry Potter series.
PIADAO
Piodao is a quaint village tucked away in the Serra do Acor mountain range of Portugal. It feels like something straight out of a fairytale, with schist and slate houses set into the mountainside.
Getting to Piadao is not for the faint of heart! One of the best parts of visiting the village is the treacherous drive through the very winding mountain roads. I did not expect the adventure and the danger involved in driving to this village.
The village is located in the heart of the mountain range, and the roads leading there are narrow, winding, and often steep. The roads are good, but very narrow, and full of switchback turns. There are very few guardrails. There are a few small villages located along the way.
The historical village houses of Piadao are arranged in the form of an amphitheatre.
The narrow winding streets are made of schist, a stone found in great abundance in the region, which was also used to build most of the houses in the village.
Unfortunately, when I visited, the remnants of one of the worst forest fires in Portugal's history were evident. The devastation was visible in much of the forest along the roads leading to Piodao. The village barely escaped destruction when the fire reached its outskirts.
Piódão is known for its unique architecture, where houses are built from local schist stone.
The houses are traditionally adorned with bright blue window frames and doors.
Schist is a medium-grade metamorphic rock characterized by a silky or sparkly luster.
The striking blue accents create a beautiful and unique look against the local schist stone buildings and black slate roofs.
The roofs are capped with dark slate, which blends in with the mountainous landscape.
Chapel São Pedro
Igreja Matriz de Piódão
MONSANTO
After spending several hours recovering from the drive and enjoying a local lunch in Piadao, we made our way to Monsanto, a small village just 15 miles from the Spanish border. Yes, it is in the middle of nowhere.
Monsanto is one of the most unique and charming villages in Portugal. The village perches on top of a hill and is intertwined with the giant boulders that balance close to the summit.
Its location, just a few miles from the Spanish border and on the hill, means that it has always been a defensive stronghold.
There are granite houses and narrow cobblestone paths that weave around the hill up to the castle.
These colossal boulders have been used as parts of houses and even had their bases excavated to be used as animal pens.
Monsanto, also known as “the most Portuguese village of Portugal”, was first inhabited around the 12th century. Monsanto is a hill of stones.
Monsanto was the primary Portuguese filming location for House of the Dragon. Its enormous granite boulders, narrow stone lanes, and dramatic Templar castle ruins gave it the perfect fantasy setting.
Sunset in Monsanto
Casa do David, our hotel in Monsanto was a great find.
Behind this red door was a very comfortable hotel room built into one of the many boulders in the village!
I collect masks from around the world. Knowing that Portugal influenced the carnival in Brazil, I hoped I could come across an authentic mask made for carnival in the country. They are difficult to find, and purchasing an authentic one takes some skill.
Sitting for dinner in a small, local restaurant in Monsanto, I spotted these two leather masks from the Podence area hanging on a wall.
As much as I tried, the owner turned down all my offers to purchase one of these.
Evora
Évora is the capital of Portugal's Alentejo region. It has roots dating back to Roman times. The city flourished during the 15th century as a center of learning and the arts under the patronage of the Portuguese kings, becoming a symbol of the Golden Age of Portugal. Known for its rich history that dates back more than two millennia, Évora is marked by Roman, Moorish, and Portuguese influences.
The well-preserved Old Town, Roman Temple, and medieval walls are just a handful of things to see in the city.
Its narrow streets are lined with whitewashed houses that surround the Cathedral of Évora, a massive Gothic structure begun in the 12th century.
Located in the heart of the city, this area is an excellent meeting point, with coffee shops, sidewalk cafés, shops, and a tourist information office.
As in Coimbra, where university students wear their distinctive uniform with a black cape, the students in Evora do the same.
Cathedral of Évora
There is no shortage of historical sights to visit in Évora.
Begin at the Roman Temple of Évora (Temple Romano), often referred to as the Temple of Diana.
It is a well-preserved landmark that showcases the city’s ancient Roman architectural skills and cultural heritage.
The Praça do Giraldo
Located in the heart of the city, just a short walk from the Roman Temple, this square is a common meeting point, with coffee shops, sidewalk cafés, shops and a tourist information office.
On one side of the plaza you will find the Church of Santo Antão and the marble drinking fountain (Chafariz) with 8 spouts, representing the 8 streets that lead here.
The Igreja de São Francisco features Gothic and baroque architecture along with the skeleton-adorned Chapel of Bones.
The Chapel of Bones, “Capela dos Ossos,” is a hauntingly beautiful and eerie site.
Constructed in the 17th century by Franciscan monks. Its walls and columns are meticulously lined with the bones and skulls of over 5,000 exhumed bodies from the overcrowded city cemeteries.
Above the chapel’s entrance, an ominous inscription reads
“Nós ossos que aqui estamos, pelos vossos esperamos,” which translates to
“We, the bones that are here, await yours.”
Cape Espichel
Cabo Espichel is situated on the western coast of Portugal in the Bacia Lusitânica.
It is a place of raw beauty, a windswept space where towering limestone cliffs plunge into the Atlantic's waves.
It is situated on a high plateau point on the Atlantic Ocean coastline, over 450 feet above sea level. It is known for its dramatic, sheer cliffs along the cape that drop off into the ocean.
The location offers sweeping views of Cascais and the Sintra Mountains, coasts to the north and southeast, and the beautiful beaches to the south.
Cape Espichel Lighthouse
In 1790, the Cape Espichel Lighthouse was built at the point of the cape.
Cape Espichel is part of several overlapping environmentally protected areas.
There are numerous hiking paths nearby along the cliffs and coast featuring Mediterranean shrubland. dominating the windswept, saltwater-sprayed cliffs and slopes. Additionally, the area provides a refuge for rare, cliff-dwelling plants that can be found nowhere else in the world.
The nearby sanctuary and dinosaur footprints on the high cliffs make it a unique place to visit.
There are several hiking paths that curve up and down the cliffs. covered with beautiful flowering vegetation.
Sesimbra
Just a short drive from Cape Espichel along the coastal road, you will find the beach town of Sesimbra.
Not knowing what we might find, we were pleasantly surprised to find Sesimbra. It is worth visiting for its beautiful beaches, delicious seafood, and vibrant fishing village atmosphere.
You can enjoy relaxing on golden beaches, exploring the charming old town, visiting the historic castle, and engaging in water sports, or just walking on the beach..
There is plenty to see along the beach.
My new coffee buddies
The people are welcoming and friendly. Thanks Trish for the photo!
Pousada Castelo de Palmela
After visiting Sesimbra, we made the short drive to the Pousada Castelo de Palmela. It is located at the top of a hill just above the city of Palmela. The medieval hilltop castle complex has a church, museum, and hotel, and expansive views of the countryside and city below.
We spent the night in the old monastery part of the castle, well inside the ancient castle walls.
A very welcoming space on our arrival at the hotel in the castle.
The castle's restaurant opens to this beautiful courtyard.
One of the many elegant spaces at the hotel.
A view of one of the bedroom windows in our room
The views from the room were spectacular. The room was well appointed, large with an small anteroom for luggage and seating.
Driving to this castle along this winding road took some time but in the long run, it was worth it!
The weather here was perfect. Although the weather can vary, it does not stay cold for long. These pomegranates grow in the castle grounds. The climate here is well-suited for them, with warm, dry summers and cool winters, and the plant is also found in the wild.
Palmela Castle (Castelo de Palmela) contains two churches within its walls.
Igreja de Santiago de Palmela is classified as a National Monument. Construction first began in 1443, and the church was completed in 1482.
The ruins of this church are also located within the castle grounds.
Church of Santa Maria (Igreja de Santa Maria)
The Castle of Palmela is known for its strategic location on a hill with panoramic views of the region. It was originally a military stronghold occupied by both Moors and Christian forces before becoming home to the Order of Santiago, which established its headquarters there.
Lisbon
Lisbon is Portugal’s hilly, coastal capital city.
Spending a few days in Lisbon gave us a good feel for the city but as with most cities there is so much more to see.
Wandering along the waterfront I found this mermaid posing for me!
The old city’s pastel-colored buildings are plenty and a feast for the eyes.
Walking the cobblestone streets up and down the many hills proved rough on my feet and shoes!
No visit to Lisbon or Portugal is complete until you have tried the many treats from the incredible bakeries that seem to be everywhere.
The most famous cream-filled pastry in Portugal is the pastel de nata, a flaky egg custard tart with a caramelized top. The original version is known as a pastel de Belém, and it is exclusively made at this specific bakery in Lisbon.
We had many, many of these along this trip. Each one was wonderful, and the original version was superb!
Walking up the hill to the area of St. Vincent's cathedral revealed many wonderful sights, sounds, smells and local experiences.
Lisbon Cathedral was lit as we had dinner at a small outdoor Portuguese restaurant.
The oldest church in the city was built in 1147. The cathedral has survived many earthquakes and has been modified, renovated, and restored several times.,
Explore the area around the cathedral; there are so many things to see along the hilly cobblestone streets leading to it.
Not planning may be the best approach here. We found wonderful restaurants and a last-minute Fado performance nearby.
Our apartment was located a half a block from Pink Street. Also known as Rua Nova do Carvalho, this bright pink lane is the center of Lisbon’s nightlife in the Cais do Sodre neighborhood. A bustling party hub, this pedestrian street is teeming with clubs, bars, and terraces that often host live concerts and themed events through the night.
Walk along this vibrantly painted pink street and under the rainbow umbrella canopy.. – Tripadvisor
I did find one in Portugal! I was able to find an original Portuguese carnival mask from a vendor in Podence, who graciously shipped it to my hotel in Lisbon. It was waiting for me when I checked into my lodging in Lisbon!
Handmade from leather and then painted in bright red, this authentic mask from Podence is a fine new addition to my mask collection.
A short slide show of my visit to Portugal.
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