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A thrill of a lifetime! My Nepalese friends woke me early one morning and asked me to make sure that I bring my cameras. I asked them where we were going and they just smiled and again reminded me to make sure that I bring my cameras. We had a quick breakfast and then loaded up the truck and headed out from our hotel in the Thamel section of Kathmandu. We drove to the Kathmandu airport when they told me that we would now go to Sagarmatha, the Nepalese name for Mt. Everest!
They had chartered a small two-engine turboprop plane owned by a local airline to take me on a flight to the nearby Himalayas and to get as close to Everest as one can without having to climb it. They had waited for the best weather and the opportunity to make sure that the summit would be visible to me. As we flew toward the Himalayas I could not believe that I would have the opportunity to get this close to the mountain as well as the summit.
The pilots, who were specially certified for these flights, seemed to be as excited as I was and even invited me into the cockpit to see the giant mountains from there. Well, as you can imagine, I didn't stop shooting and returned with many photos from the top of the world. I will never forget that morning.
The only "down" side of this trip was an unexpected, quick fuel stop due to us staying more time than expected flying through and around the magnificent peaks. We had to divert to the most dangerous airport in the world, Lukla, for a quick early morning fuel stop. Look it up on the web, probably the most frightening thing I have ever experienced. Hats off to the two pilots who had the required certifications to land there.
Mt. Everest, (Sagarmatha) taken from the cockpit view.
Experiencing the Himalayas is one of the most exciting and gratifying things I have ever done. Flying into them, I felt like a small bird gliding through the rugged snow-capped peaks. The pilots were more than happy to point out the main peaks along the northern part of Nepal as they placed the plane in a position where I could get some photos. It was a bit difficult as the cockpit was small and the pilots had to maneuver through the high winds at this high altitude but I was able to get some very nice shots. Being in the cockpit was a lot of fun and made for a better vantage point to shoot from. As I saw something of interest I simply pointed and the pilots would guide the plane in that direction allowing me to take some shots. The co-pilot was a former Miss Nepal!
My second trip to Nepal occurred at a time of civil unrest. The Nepalese army was at full alert and would often stop my vehicle at sandbag bunker checkpoints to check my papers and search the vehicle. Maoist rebels had been very active over the past months and I was warned by my colleagues that during my stay, I would be visiting a district that had been a major flash-point between the Maoists and the government. The soldiers had warned me of danger in this area and were convinced that if I returned, it would be minus my cameras. I was a bit concerned about this visit and for my safety but my driver and friends insisted that I would be safe. This would be the case, and my visit to this district and the small village proved to be one of the highlights of my trip.
These "rebels" were as hospitable as anyone I had ever met and had gone out of their way to make sure that I was comfortable and safe.
When I first entered the area, I spotted several people at the edge of the village, including this teen, armed with rifles. They weren't visible for very long as I entered my way into their small village. My stay in the village turned out to be full of music, dances, and local song, with no evidence of any political issues.
I was later to see this girl again, now wearing this beautiful red dress and preparing to dance a native dance for me and the rest of the visitors to the village.
This teen girl seemed to have been watching me throughout my stay, and as I was about to press the shutter to snap her photo, she turned her head toward me, allowing me to capture this compelling image. Later that afternoon, as we walked through the rice patties while touring the village, I was to see her once again and was surprised to learn later that she spoke English and wished to practice it with me. We spoke about her learning the language and school but I never did ask her what she had done with the rifle I had seen her with earlier.
My stay in this district and village was short, as there was a sundown curfew in effect. I returned to my hotel just before dark and thought about my encounter with the rugged and kind people of this remote district.
I have had the pleasure of traveling and meeting people all over the globe. I have found none more friendly and physically beautiful than the people of Nepal.
The grace of this woman was apparent as I saw her walking in the distance through a rice paddy. Her bright clothes and smiling face drew me to take this photo of her coming toward me.
What you can't see in this photo is that this graceful woman is "walking" a thousand pounds of water buffalo as if it were her pet dog. I was stunned to see how graceful she looked and how gentle the water buffalo was with her. She stopped a few yards from me and picked up a tin pail full of water and a brush. There she began to bathe the water buffalo as if it were her pet dog!
One morning I was walking through the jungle of southern Nepal close to the Indian border. As I stepped up a small hill and out of the lush jungle, I came upon this family sitting outside their home. They watched me as I emerged from the jungle and as I showed them my camera to ask permission to take a photo, the man, who I later learned was the grandfather, put his hands together to bless me and give permission. I could not have posed them any better than they had themselves, and what resulted is one of my favorite photos and memories of Nepal.
I was glad to get this photo and to have left the jungle path that I had been on. The narrow dirt path was surrounded by tall grasses and had been formed by many people using it over time. As I was walking through the jungle, my guides informed me that I should shuffle my feet as I walked. When I asked why, they simply responded, "Cobras". If I could have levitated, I would have.
My first visit to Nepal was also my first trip to Asia and one that introduced me to the wonderful architecture of the region.
A visit to Patan allowed me to marvel at the temples that are located in this part of Kathmandu. Patan is one of the largest cities in Nepal and is located just across the Bagmati River from Kathmandu. Located in Patan, Durbar Square is full of temples, statues, and palaces.
I had the opportunity to visit Kathmandu several years later and was thrilled to find several other beautiful temples around the city. When in Kathmandu, head to the Thamal section. Thamal seems out of a movie with old buildings, small streets filled with food stalls, and surrounded by a labyrinth of small alleys filled with shops selling everything Nepalese, ranging from handmade leather, wool, and silk carpets, loose jewelry stones, and pashmina clothing.
One of the finest restaurants I have ever experienced anywhere on the planet is located in Kathmandu. "Krishnarpan Restaurant is located in Dwarika's Hotel. the goal here is to feed you the very finest traditional royal Nepalese Newari cuisine that was enjoyed for centuries by maharajahs and kings. The sumptuous restaurant provides the perfect regal backdrop to enhance your banqueting experience. The lightest meals here start at 6 courses, but if you are insanely hungry, you can always go for the 22-course option (seriously). The vegetables come straight from the hotel's organic farm, so you know they will be fresh. This is a fascinating culinary journey that might take you from stuffed eggplant to spiced wild boar, via Nepalese chicken curry." Fodor's Expert Review
Nepal is the birthplace of Buddha.
Where there are temples, there are monks, lots of them, and they make for great photos. Always smiling and willing to enter into a conversation, I have always enjoyed meeting and talking with them.
This photo was taken in the Monkey Temple one morning. Also known as Swayambhunath, it is an ancient religious structure atop a hill in the Kathmandu Valley, west of Kathmandu city.
The old monk was basking in the morning sun and quietly contemplating what monks contemplate.
Patan is a city of 55 major temples and 136 Buddhist monasteries, and its artisans are known for their fine metalworks. The city celebrates countless festivals, both Hindu and Buddhist. Patan is filled with temples that are still very much in use and the feel of this city close to Kathmandu is magical. With ancient streets, local foods, and many vendors, Patan is a must-see if you visit Nepal.
I was lucky to have time to do some great shopping here as well as experience a traditional Nepalese lunch in one of the temples.
Bartering is expected, and most of the vendors will invite you into their stalls and make you a wonderful cup of tea while the discussions on prices begin.
Bhaktapur Durbar Square is located in the current town of Bhaktapur, also known as Bhadgaon. It is part of the plaza in front of the royal palace of the old Bhaktapur Kingdom. The Durbar Square is surrounded by spectacular architecture and vividly showcases the skills of the Newari artists and craftsmen.
I spent some time exploring the architecture and taking lots of photos. There are numerous major ancient temples and attractions located here. After my exploration, I found a wonderful tea house overlooking the main square where I enjoyed some local tea and people-watched.
In 2015 a major and deadly earthquake severely damaged several ancient structures located here.
Schoolgirls looking at statues at one of the many temples in Patan.
Elephant statues in Patan
The Boudha Stupa dominates the skyline of the area, it is one of the largest stupas in the world. Located about 11 km (6.8 mi) from the center of Kathmandu, the Boudha Stupa's massive mandala makes it one of the largest spherical stupas in Nepal.
The village that surrounds the great stupa is generally known by the name of Buddha.
Stupas are one of the most recognizable forms of Buddhist architecture, dotting the landscape in all Buddhist countries. Like Buddhist temples, their style differs from culture to culture, but the basic structure remains the same.
Creating a Mandala
The creation of a mandala sand painting is an intricate process. It requires millions of grains of sand to make a mandala. It requires several monks working anywhere from days to weeks, depending on the size of the mandala.
When the mandala is finally finished, however long it takes, they pray over it -- and then they destroy it. They sweep up, every last grain of sand, and give handfuls of it away to those who participate in the closing ceremony as a final memory. Then they throw the rest of the sand into the nearest living stream to be swept away to bless the whole world. In an instant, after all that artistry, all that work, it's over.
The underlying message of the mandala ceremony is that nothing is permanent. "All things are in flux, beautiful but ephemeral, moving but temporary, a plateau but not a summit ."
I was fortunate enough to see this mandala completed and then later destroyed by the monks who created it.
The monks bend over the piece for hours on end, dropping one grain of sand after another into intricate symbolic patterns. The purpose is to call the community to meditation and awareness of something larger than their small world.
I was lucky to witness a ceremony here one afternoon. I only wish I had known earlier I may have tried to find a great mask like this to take home!
A pilgrim circumambulating the Boudha Stupa.
Yes, that is a word. Circumambulation is the act of moving around a sacred object or idol. Circumambulation of temples or deity images is an integral part of Hindu and Buddhist devotional practice. It is also present in other religions, including Christianity, Judaism, and Islam.
Located on a hilltop overlooking Kathmandu, Swayambhu is one of the holiest Buddhist stupas in Nepal. It is said to have evolved spontaneously when the valley was created out of a primordial lake more than 2,000 years ago. This stupa is the oldest of its kind in Nepal and has numerous shrines and monasteries on its premises. The name was a tongue twister, so many visitors have called it "Monkey Temple"
Swayambhunath ( Monkey Temple) is an ancient religious architecture The Tibetan name for the site means 'Sublime Trees', for the many varieties of trees found on the hill.
Each building and the main stupa have hundreds of artifacts and icons that have religious meanings. Notice the eyes on the stupa in the photo on the left. Each side has a differently painted set of eyes that signify different meanings.
The complex consists of a stupa, a variety of shrines and temples. Each morning before dawn hundreds of Buddhist and Hindu pilgrims ascend the steps from the eastern side that lead up the hill, passing the gilded Vajra (Tibetan: Dorje) and two lions guarding the entrance, and begin a series of clockwise circumambulations , yes it is that word, of the stupa.
The reason it is called the Monkey Temple
More monkeys at Monkey Temple.
On one of my travels to Nepal, I was to visit the small village of Seti Gandaki a few miles southeast of Pokhara at the foothills of the Himalayas. To reach the village, I had to cross a 100-yard wide and over 200-foot deep gorge over this suspension bridge. Through the drizzling rain, over the slippery, bouncing, and swaying bridge I finally made it across only to find that a 30-minute walk up a slippery mud path awaited. In the back of my mind, I remembered that I would have to cross the bridge again on my return. Although the bridge seemed a bit scary the opportunity to experience this and the beauty surrounding me was quite breathtaking and I would do it again!
Sorry, no time for photos, and no room for the cameras. I had to leave them with colleagues at the truck. My hands were very busy! but here is a quick one taken of the basket coming from the other side to get me! The ultimate "zip line".
The bridge was a piece of cake compared to the most frightening experience of my life, which occurred on a trip from Chitwan to Kathmandu.
To make a long story short, picture a thick wire cable strung high over a raging river gorge. Add to this a rickety metal basket about 5 ft x 3 ft in size attached to the cable by a metal hinged collar. The basket wobbled on the cable as I was placed inside. Initially standing in the metal basket and with a load of wood to deliver, I sat snugly surrounded by the metal frame. With help from the locals on both sides tugging on the rope and pulley system, I sat with a load of firewood, swaying from end to end, across the gorge and river below me to the other side. If the ride across the canyon wasn't enough, as I looked below me, I could see several funeral pyres burning along the banks as I passed above. I survived the ride but quickly remembered that I would later have to return to the other side.
I had to visit the small community of Lothar in Chitwan close to the Indian border. It was during the monsoon season, and there was always a chance for rain. When the monsoon hits, you can find yourself in plenty of hard rain and you should come prepared.
I had a poncho with me, but the rains had stopped, and as it was very hot and humid, I had taken it off. As I was walking through the village, it began to drizzle again. I quickly found a large leaf from a local plant, asked permission to pick it, and as you can see in the photo, had a very practical and efficient umbrella!
One morning, I had the opportunity to travel to the Chitwan Reserve famous for its rhinos and tigers. Located near the border with India, this nature preserve is loaded with wildlife. Dugout canoes traverse the northern Rapti River, home to numerous crocodiles. Adjacent to and to the south of Chitwan National Park is the Indian Tiger Reserve, Valmiki National Park.
Chitwan National Park is a preserved area in the Terai Lowlands of south-central Nepal, known for its biodiversity. The dense forests and grassy plains are home to rare mammals like one-horned rhinos and Bengal tigers.
Riding an elephant through the beautiful jungle reserve, I didn't see any tigers this time, but these two rhinos seemed more than happy to pose for me as they relaxed in a small mud hole along my way.
Road side sign along main road in Chitwan
View from my company's country office!
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