This trip was to Lightning Ridge from the Mid North Coast of NSW. The first stop was near Dunnedoo to meet up with family for a birthday celebration. From there to was to Gulargambone and Burren Junction and on out to Lightning Ridge, before returning via Wee Waa, Narrabri, Bingara, Inverell, Glen Innes, Mann River, Grafton and on to the coast to Iluka for a few days. From there it was southbound to Woolgoolga, Coffs Harbour and home.
We departed Black Head just before 11am and had a good drive the whole way to Jerrys Plain (just over three hours), where we free camped overnight at the reserve there. There were a few other vans in, but it was a quiet night.
We had another two and a bit hours drive through to my daughter's farm near Dunnedoo. The drought has really set in here.
We had a quiet day and after other family members arrived later in the afternoon we headed off to Dunedoo Hotel for dinner. Pretty good meal there.
As it was my son-in-law's birthday we had some celebrations.
As always happens when we are there, Sunday morning was reserved for golf, and as normally also happens, we had a huge cooked breakfast when we got back. This was followed a bit later by a big BBQ and pizza lunch. Needless to say we didn't have any dinner!
We packed up with a strong, cold wind blowing. We had to refuel at Dunedoo, and as there was only one service station there and many caravans on the road, we had to queue. There was still a queue of caravans after me waiting to fill up.
We arrived in Gulargambone two hours later and settled into the caravan park. This is a really nice park, well kept and presented, with grass.
Took a walk around town to look at the wall paintings. The town was a bit sad as most of the shops are closed and only the Post Office and cafe / info centre (now both community owned), Spar super market, chemists, CRT (hardware) and a general store remain. The fuel stop is only via card. There were not many people around!
Gulargambone - streets were deserted
Gulargambone - the post office is now a transaction centre
Gulargambone - Galahs in corrogated iron. These are shown flying on the way into town, and those in town are roosting!
The community is trying so hard to keep the town going. They have a cafe (2828 - named after the postcode), to bring people in and many of the walls have art.
Gulargambone - Cafe 2828
Gulargambone - the bus shelter is brightened up
Gulargambone - the wall of the general store reflects the community here
Gulargambone - the water tower gets art
Gulargambone - great sculpture called "Ghosts of Bullocks Past"
The bright spot is the caravan park, which mainly keeps the town going. Apparantly it is an oasis and people come here from Victoria for the winter. I can see why they come as this caravan park is beautifully looked after - with nice green grass!
They do cooked dinners twice a week over the winter in the firepit, with proceeds going to the Royal Flying Doctor Service.
Beautiful morning as we packed up and departed for Burren Junction Hot Springs. We turned off the highway at Coonamble and headed towards the town of Piliga. On this 80km section we only had 2 bends and nothing overtook us. From Pilliga to Burren about 30km was rough dirt and we could only do between 20 and 40kph. We arrived at the hot springs and set up camp and took a dip in the 37c pool. Several people there for the so called healing properties of the water. Beautiful evening.
Burren Junction - the springs and camp site (from Google Earth)
Burren Junction - our camp site was close to the springs
Burren Junction - the springs are at a nice 37C!
Another pack up after taking some video, both camera and drone. We filled up with fuel and then headed the 90km to Walgett. The road wasn't great, but we made good time and a few kilometres out of town we had a car pass us, the first in over 200km! We turned right towards Lightning Ridge and the road kill was like a series of chicanes and the road surface was poor. Very hard to do more that 70kph. Arrived about midday and set up camp at the Opal Caravan park. It was "rather" warm, so we had a swim in the pool in the afternoon.
Lightning Ridge - nice to see the welcome sign
Lightning Ridge - looking rather civilised
Lightning Ridge - the caravan park was rather large. No grass, but nice round and smooth small river pebbles.
Friday 2 November 2018
We decided to visit another opal mining area called Glengarry - more what you expect from an opal mining town. This was a 76km drive. Very dry out there.
You get the impression that "outsiders" are more tolerated than welcome.
Glengarry - many of the mines are one (or two) man bands and the mines are close to the road
Glengarry - when you see that there is the "Glengarry Hilton" out there, you know that Ozzie humour is alive and well. Although we were told that the food was great.
Glengarry - the paddocks out here are so large that they go beyond the horizon. They grow wheat in good years.
Back at Lightning Ridge we had lunch and then drove around the "car door tours". There are four tours - Red, Blue, Green and Yellow. They all use old car doors as the signs.
Their website explains it all.
On the way back to the caravan park we stocked up at IGA supermarket before going for a swim in the pool.
Lightning Ridge - "Car Door Tours" are explained on the website
Lightning Ridge - can't miss the tour signs
Lightning Ridge - large variety of architecture
Lightning Ridge - still mines close to town
Lightning Ridge - OHS is taken seriously here. The mine shaft is covered - but don't go walking around at night!
With 39c forecast for today, we had a quiet morning - chatting to Andy, one of our neighbours in the park. Then we visited the Arts and Crafts Centre, buying some pictures and art work. Seemed to spend most of the afternoon in the pool.
Packed up while chatting to various people we had met and then headed off for Wee Waa, travelling back down to Walgett, where we drove around the town before heading east towards Burren Junction and then on to Wee Waa. In Walgett every house / office / factory had bars on the windows and doors - a sad reflection on our society. The roads out that way are not that good for towing caravans and the average speed was only 75kph.
At Wee Waa we were going to stay at the showgrounds, but as we drove around we could see no other travellers, so booked into the better (relatively) caravan park and spent the rest of the day in the air-conditioning as it was another day with the temperature close to 40c.
Wee Waa Caravan Park
As a rest day, we drove the 25km down to Yarrie Lake to take a look. Unfortunately it was empty because of the drought, but it looked like a really nice place. The only downer was a sign at the ramp showing that skiing must be done clockwise around the lake. Hmmm, it might get busy and noisy at week-ends!
Yarrie Lake, with water - photo borrowed from council website
Just a few kilometres away, and half way between Wee Waa and Narrabri is the CSIRO Australia Telescope Compact Array at the Paul Wild Observatory.
This telescope consists of 6 x 22mtr dishes that run on a 3 km railway.
The dishes can be moved to any position along this railway.
Paul Wild Observatory dishes
Paul Wild Observatory - super wide gauge railway
Paul Wild Observatory - staff moving the dishes (taken from the documentary video on show at the visitor centre. (c) CSIRO)
Because we were close to Narrabri we called in to get some stuff at the shops. The weather forecast was not good, so we booked in for the following two nights at the Big Sky CP, before driving back along the highway to Wee Waa, where we filled up with fuel.
Narrabri - Big Sky Caravan Park (photo Google Maps)
A hot morning to pack up, but we took it easy as we only had 50km to do to Narrabri. We took the back road for a change. At Narrabri we setup and then walked across to the shops. It was bloody hot and "dirty", so we headed back to the caravan and the air conditioning.
Quite a nice morning, so we took a drive to the "Sawn rocks" on the road to Bingara and then turned left on to a dirt road to drive to "Waa Gorge". The road steadily got rougher and rougher until the road stopped. Google Maps doesn't always get it right. We back tracked for a few kilometres and then took a different road and after several opening/closing of gates, we arrived at the car park. The picnic ground was well set up.
Waa Gorge - picnic area and car park
We walked to the rock pools, but as there no water running and there was a forecast of thunder storms, we didn't walk into the gully.
Waa Gorge - track into the pools
Waa Gorge - no water falling
Waa Gorge - still some water in the top pool
We got back to the caravan about 2.30pm, to see that our tarp, used to shelter the freezer, had blown away in a gust. I walked around the area, but could not find it. Time to buy another! Rain started shortly after we got back, and along with the wind, continued though the evening and night.
We had planned to move on today, but with everything being wet underfoot we decided to stay in Narrabri for another day. It also give us a chance to visit Mount Kaputar again. It really is a beautiful area with so many beautiful views.
Later in the afternoon we went supermarket shopping and filled up with fuel. Nice to have a cool day for a change.
Mt Kaputar - view from Doug Sky Lookout
Mt Kaputar - rock outcrop on way up
Mt Kaputar - at over 1500 metres, the summit gives great views
Packed up and headed for Bingara to free camp at the No. 1 camping ground on the Gwydir River. Only a couple of caravans in, so it felt really empty. Setup next to the river in a beautiful spot. Spent the afternoon watching the wildlife. Many different bird types (including a duck that has made its home in our campsite. I get the feeling that people may have fed it!), large fish jumping, echidnas and lizards.
Bingara - lovely camp site next to the river
Bingara - view from our campsite
Bingara - perfect
This spot on the Gwydir River is great for doing nothing other than watching the wildlife.
We took a paddle upstream and downstream in the afternoon. Glorious evening.
Bingara - nice spot for a paddle
Still at Bingara. Why would you move? I paddled down stream until halfway to the bridge. Water spread kinda thin in some spots. Very restful day!
Took our time packing up, reluctantly leaving around midday. Stopped in Inverell for lunch and to do some shopping. Chatted to another grey nomad from Brisbane (originally from Mansfield in Vic) while Di did shopping. We arrived in Glen Innes showground around 3pm and managed to get the last allowed spot there (they are now limited to 19 caravans).
Glen Innes - the showgrounds are a great place to stop
Di needed to get some printing done, so we visited the Information Centre where they were happy to do it for a donation. After the paperwork was filled in we drove to the post office to mail it and then bought some lunch and set in the park to eat it.
From there we visited the museum at the old hospital. I though it well worth the visit.
Being Di's birthday we got dressed up and went for dinner at the main motel restaurant. Good meal, but ate too much.
Today we were heading to Mann River, but pulled in at Boundary Falls Camping Ground to walk into the falls. Last time we were here Di was not well and she sat in the car while I did the walk. This time we also walked into Lyrebird Falls. Great views!
Boundary Falls (Gibraltar Range NP) - from top of walk
Boundary Falls (Gibraltar Range NP) - falls and pool
Lyrebird Falls (Gibraltar Range NP)
We pulled into Mann River CP for the night. Only a few people there. We were be-friended by an old guy (actually 10 years younger than me!).
We took a walk down to the river.
Mann River and bridge
We hadn't unhitched, so packing up was easy, except for a few things. Bird crap and gum tree drips all over everything, and the other was our new friend who wanted to chat, but that's all part of the fun.
Back to civilisation and traffic as we drove north to Iluka and booked into the Riverside CP for a few days.
Pleasant day, so we took a drive around to the ocean and the north breakwater, walking out to the end of the path, if not the end of the breakwater. Then we drove round to the bluff and walked to the top for nice water views. Walked along the walking path along to the hotel. Chilled out the rest of the day.
Iluka - end of breakwater
Iluka - climb to the bluff
Iluka - view from the bluff
Up early to pick up the 8.45am ferry to Yamba. This ferry, now 70 years old, has always worked in these waters. We walked around the waterfront to the ocean and then up to the top of the bluff before heading back into town for cakes and a drink. We got the 11am ferry back to Iluka. Later in the afternoon the storm clouds built up and we put the awning and outside stuff away, but luckily we missed most of it, just getting a great light and noise show and some rain.
Yamba - ferry docking
Yamba - lighthouse at top of bluff
Yamba - some nice surf beaches
We took it easy during the morning and in the afternoon we walked around the whole way to the marine rescue, looking at the various wall works completed over the years to make the entrance safer. I found it very interesting.
To finish up, we bought fish and chips for tea.
Iluka - safe anchorage behind the sea wall
Iluka - remains of the crane used to lift the concrete blocks from a barge to a railway to take to the breakwater
Iluka - Moriarty's Wall
Another pack up and a drive south to Woolgoolga Lakeside CP.
We got a nice spot close to the beach, and after setting up we took a walk along the beach.
Woolgoolga Beach
Woolgoolga - remains of "The Buster"
Woolgoolga - remains of "The Buster". We have heard that somebody has broken these off since we were there.
Drove into Coffs Harbour on to Dorrigo for lunch and a walk into Dangar Falls. Returning to Coffs we walked out to the end of Mutton Bird Island.
Dorrigo - Dangar Falls
Dorrigo - Dangar Falls
Coffs Harbour Marina
Coffs Harfbour Marina - walking along the new breakwater
Coffs Harbour - I always enjoy walking out to the island
Beautiful morning to pack up and head for home. About half way the rain started, so we didn't feel too bad heading home.