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When I first looked at this boat it looked good from a distance, but on closer inspection the hull was in pretty poor shape, with corroded paint work all over the hull. This was something I would tackle later, but the floor(sole) was pretty rotten with a lot of movement as you put your foot down on the carpet.
The trailer also concerned me as it had some "rough" welding done on it. I might have to take a closer look!
The Navajo 425 arrives home
The Yamaha 40HP four stroke motor has less than 700 hours on it.
Cockpit looks OK
Replacing the floor
Replacing the floor
Before starting to remove the floor everything had to be taken out of the boat and then the seats had to be unscrewed. I hadn't planned to document this restoration, so I didn't take any photos of this work.
I unwrapped the carpet from the plywood carefully as I wanted to use both the carpet and plywood as templates for the new.
The floor was in four sections, two in the bow section and two on the main deck. I lost count of how many screws there were, well over 50, and removing them ranged from simply removing them using only my fingers (were they had rung the thread in the aluminium knees) to using every tool in my armoury as some simply didn't want to come out. However, with some persuasion and rather a lot of blue language they were all removed. The plywood was rotten on several places and it did not appear to have had any protection put on it. The plywood separated into several pieces.
The old plywood sole was in pretty average condition and fell to bits when removed
New plywood and carpet completed
Managed to obtain 12mm marine plywood sheets and also 3 metres of grey marine carpet and got to work. Using the old boards as templates I cut the ply into the four sections and trimmed to ensure they would fit properly. Laying the boards over the carpet and allowing a 50-60mm border, the carpet sections were cut. The boards were coated with epoxy and the carpets attached using external contact cement. (I had also drilled the holes in the boards according to the original floor. These holes were drilled out much bigger and filled with epoxy, after which the correct holes were drilled. This will ensure that on water can seep into the ply.)
Naturally not all of the holes fitted and I also had to use the next size up screws to get them to bite.
Getting the Paintwork Sorted
Getting the Paintwork Sorted
There was a lot of corrosion on the whole deck and also a fair bit on the topsides (hull sides). I decided that the whole of the hull would need to be painted.
Before starting, the bimini, windshield and seats were removed and all the contents of the boat taken off and placed in the garage.(Can't get my car in any more!)
Plenty of corrosion
Before the hull could be sanded down all of the vinyl letters, numbers and design transfer had to be removed.
This was completed using a heat gun (on low) and some scrapers I made out of tongue depressors and some ply. These worked well as they would lift the vinyl but not dig into the paint.
This probably took 15 - 18 hours, if not a bit longer.
Plenty of vinyl to be removed
Scrapers made from tongue depressers and 3mm plywood
Once the vinyl was removed the work could really start.
The corroded areas were attacked with a wire wheel that got rid of all the loose paint and then the sander could be used to smooth out the paint and the corroded metal.
Sanding started
The sides were sanded back to bare metal in many places. This was done mainly using a power sander, with the final work being done by hand.
Fair bit of bare metal showing
The stern was rather messy, but looking better
Once the sanding was complete, the first coat of 2 pack etch primer was applied. This was then sanded back - in some cases back to bare metal. This preparation is the secret to a good finish. This was a major task taking quite a few hours!
Looking better. Some of the small dings will be filled - just for a better finish.
Ready for sanding back.
I then applied a second coat of primer to ensure good coverage. This was given a fine sanding back. There has been so much sanding by hand I don't have any fingerprints left!
Second coat of primer sanded added and then it will be given a fine sand.
The final coat has been completed. Again some very fine sanding was done to remove bugs, sand etc and then a second coat added.
I'll leave this paint to cure for a few days....
Final coat of top paint completed
It took about 3 days of work to add the new decals and replace all the bits that had been removed. Next, the windshield and bimini were refixed into position with new bolts.
Finally carpet was added to the anchor well and the motor well at the stern and the backrest for the stern seats rebuilt.
How to sort out the trailer!
Everything back in place. Looking quite smart.
Trailer Work
Trailer Work
The trailer had a walking ramp bolted to ensure dry feet when launching, but this also hid some very poor welding when when some modification was done to it. Add to this there was rust in the same area, I decided to take the trailer to a welder to get it put right as I was not at all happy towing the boat with the trailer in that condition. The first welder said to just dump it and buy a new trailer (he really didn't want to do the work), but I took it to a professional welder in Taree and he agreed that it could be fixed. While it wasn't cheap, it was still a lot less money than buying a new trailer!
Some nasty welding on the trailer. I thought they tried to lengthen the trailer, but it was to actually "fix" some rusting issues.
Some really nasty welding on the trailer. I could not bring myself to tow this trailer in that condition.
The bad bits were cut out and new welded in.
The welder did a really nice job, so now I'm happy to tow it.
Back into relaxing use
Back into relaxing use
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