This trip, in August, was to look at a few places we had missed on previous trips, as well as to show family some of our favorite places.
The itinerary was to fly into Dublin (spending the first night in Maynooth), then travel down to Cashel to tour the Rock (and by chance also explore Cahir Castle). Next was a long slow drive down to Dingle in the South West corner. Then it was North via Shanagolden to Athenry (and out to the west coast at Westport) before travelling back to Dublin to meet up with the family. We all travelled north to visit New Grange and Carlingford, and then into Northern Ireland to Belfast and the Antrim Coast Road to Londonderry (Derry). Back in Belfast we were to visit the Ulster Folk Museum and Carrickfergus Castle before heading back to Dublin to end the trip.
Pretty layback start to the day as we didn't need to leave the hotel until 10am (we had travelled to Sydney by train the previous day). Casual breakfast and slow pack-up. The shuttle bus took us around to the International Terminal, although the sound that the tow bracket was making made me think that the trailer might be lucky to make it.
Checked in for the flight to KL and spent some time in the business lounge on comfortable chairs and having reasonable coffee. The 8 hour flight took off right on schedule and I'm always amazed that the first 5+ hours are spent crossing Australia. I had to admit that the standard of accommodation, the food, and the service were all top shelf. Well done to Malaysian Airlines.
Departing Sydney
We arrived at the Satellite Terminal at KL Airport, and found the Golden Lounge (Malaysian Airlines) for some drinks and nibbles as we waiting for the flight to be called. As a matter of interest, it is the largest lounge in the Southern Hemisphere and the food available is broad - and all beautifully presented.
We saw midnight twice as we adjusted to the time difference. The flight to London basically the only MA flight into Europe. It takes around 13 hours so after a very late dinner (second dinner as we had one on the previous flight) there was a long quiet period on 8 hours. Thankfully being able to lie the seat flat made getting some sleep easier and the flight more bearable. I could talk more about the food. It was perfectly cooked and perfectly presented and tasted great.
Just before 6am local time, we were the first long haul flight to land, so this made getting through customs and immigration easier and then we made our way to the railway station to Terminal 2, where our Air Lingus flight to Dublin awaited us, but we had to hang around a couple of hours. The flight was less than an hour and as usual with more local flights there were no gates available and we had to get buses to bring us around to the terminal. Every gate we could see were filled by United, Delta, and Air Lingus Boeing 777's, 787's, A380, & A350s. Immigration was straight forward, but customs was non existent. We had time for some lunch before crossing over to pick up the car.
We drove the 33km to Maynooth and booked into our serviced apartment. Being in the main street on a beautiful summer's Saturday (a very pleasant 23degrees), the place was awash with tourists and there was only 1 hour parking anywhere near us. This meant we had to move the car a few times until 6.30pm and then all day Sunday it is unlimited parking.
Early night for us.....
Maynooth - our apartment in Main Street.
Maynooth
We had a casual start to the day and we re-organised our bags for the duration until our next flight. We started with a walk down the main street and ended up at the castle. Much of the main keep is still intact and in that area there were some displays. We started chatting to a couple of the local historians there and this ended up being over an hour, with them suggesting some places for us to visit. With this knowledge and over a coffee we decided to change our day a bit. We then drove to Cahir (about 20km from Cashel) to look at the castle there and leave the Rock of Cashel for Monday when it would be a lot quieter - in relative terms.
The drive down along the M7 and then the M8 was good (they have 120kph limit on the motorways, although many seem to believe that to be advisory only!). The castle there was still in great order and well worth the visit. There was a siege there in the early 1500's. After the visit we got some fruit and stuff at the supermarket and set in the park next to the castle to have a late lunch. We drove to Cashel and found our guest house. After a short rest we walked down into town to get some cash out of the ATM and grab a pizza for dinner.
In the evening we finally sorted out our mobile phone. For some reason Telstra doesn't support Ireland in its pre-paid international roaming (although UK and most other European countries are), so we had to set up another sim card and account.
End of a busy day!
Maynooth Castle
Cahir Castle - by a river
Cahir Castle - based on rock
Cahir Castle - Banquet Hall
Cahir Castle - Portcullis workings
We had booked in for the 10.30am tour of the Rock of Cashel. This is the ruins of an old cathedral come fort. It's one of the most popular tourist sites so getting decent footage was difficult.
The Rock of Cashel was the traditional seat of the kings of Munster for several hundred years prior to the Norman invasion.Â
In 1101, the King of Munster donated his fortress on the Rock to the Church.Â
Few remnants of the early structures survive; the majority of buildings on the current site date from the 12th and 13th centuries.
In 1647, during the Irish Confederate Wars, Cashel was sacked by English Parliamentarian troops under Murrough O'Brien, 1st Earl of Inchiquin. The Irish Confederate troops there were massacred, as were the Catholic clergy.
Sometime during or after the mid-1730s, the main cathedral roof was destroyed by Arthur Price, the Anglican Archbishop of Cashel. The reason for this is unknown.
The oldest and tallest of the structures is the well preserved round tower 28 metres (92 ft) high, dating from c.1100.
Down in the valley are the remains of Hoar Abbey, that was formed in 1270 and abandoned in 1540.
After the tour we walked to the Cashel Folk Museum. It specialises in the freedom of Ireland from England. We had fun with Brendon (the owner), discussing history.
Cashel Folk Museum - old gypsy caravan
Cashel Folk Museum
We eventually left just before 1pm for the long drive down to Dingle.
While it wasn't long by distance, Google Maps in Ireland just loves to send you down narrow regional and local roads that are just over one lane wide and very twisty, where you can only average 60kph. We eventually arrived in Dingle at 4pm and booked into our B&B.
For dinner we strolled down into the harbour and had traditional fish and chips, while Di had fish chowder.
Another early night!
Dingle - town
Dingle - harbour
Being a nice morning we decided to do the Slea Head Drive. This is a 40 kilometre drive around the coast that has many interesting places to visit and took us nearly 6 hours!
When you read the guides they suggest that:
'you should drive this loop in a clockwise direction to avoid meeting buses as there is limited place for passing'.
Boy, are they right! Of course there are some who didn't read that - and they must have had a miserable, scary trip.
Dingle - Slea Head Drive
Slea Head Drive - narrow roads
First stop was a fort at Dunbeg. This a small stone wall, but was badly damaged in 2014 during a severe storm and it is now fenced off. It was built close to the cliff face and had 5 bank defenses.
We continued our drive along this narrow road, occasionally being held up by cyclists in both directions. God, they are brave!
Dunbeg Forts
Slea Head Drive - Famine Cottages
Slea Head Drive - rugged coastline
Our next major stop (excepting those just to take in the views - that are really spectacular), was at the Blasket Centre. The Blasket Islands were inhabited until 1953, when all the final inhabitants left. There were no services on the islands and everything had to be brought in by rowing boat. It was a really tough life. Today some of the cottages have been restored and you can stay overnight, although I think there are somewhat better facilities than before! There have been many books written about the islands and the people. As an aside, close to the centre is the site were much of the movie Ryans Daughter was shot. Only the school house remains, although that was badly damaged in the 2014 storm. Shows now wild this country is.
Slea Head Drive - Blasket Centre
Slea Head Drive - Blasket Island
Slea Head Drive - Blasket Centre. The last inhabitations leave the island in 1953
Slea Head Drive - Blasket Centre. Everything on the island was transported by small rowing boats
Slea Head Drive - Blasket Centre. Household items from the island
Slea Head Drive - Blasket Centre. The ruins of the school built for the movie "Ryans Daughter".
Our final major stop was at the Gullarus Oratory, a small 10th century church. It is one of the classic sites and shows up on most tourist brochures.
A bit wet and windy this morning, so it was a quiet start. Eventually, after lunch and with the rain stopped, we drove out to Minard Castle, about 30km to the east of Dingle. Only the walls remain, and with large cracks running down them, keeping clear was the order of the day. The castle is situated on a small bluff next to the sea and beach next to it is two metres high in huge rounded boulders.Â
The power of the sea cannot be over-estimated. The rain started again and as we left the beach area two large tractors with trailers came towards us and as it was a single lane, two way road, we reversed back 50 metres to where they could get past - quite a normal thing around these parts!
We walked down to town and had a quick dinner so we could get back to the B&B before the rain started yet again.
Todays drive was to be from Dingle to Oranmore, between Galway and Athenry. It was still raining so heavily when we left that the visibility on down to a couple of hundred metres, so the drive up to Tralee over some mountains was some fun. We took a slight detour to visit Shanagolden and the nearby old castle ruins of Shanid Castle. With the rain continuing we headed on to Limerick to stop for lunch. By this time the sun had come out so the drive along the motorway to Oranmore was pleasant. We arrived right on time to book in. After a short rest to headed into town to do some laundry. In Ireland we have found small outdoor launderettes in service stations and in shopping centre car parks. Amazingly we have always found them clean and working, and today was no exception. We walked over to the shopping centre and got some dinner by which time the clothes were all washed and dried.
Shangolden
Shanid Castle, near Shangolden
 (photo: www.flickr.com/photos/brianwc/219647682 (Creative Commons)
We started early and drove down to Dunguaire Castle, about 25km south from Oranmore, but as a couple of busloads had just arrived, we decided to move on. Next stop was Athenry, a very old town, to take a walk around town. We meandered into the Heritage Centre and had a long talk with the guides there. Then we walked to the castle and had a private guided tour with a wonderful guide.
Dunguaire Castle on the way past
Athenry - NorthGate
Athenry - Heritage Centre
Athenry - Athenry Castle Keep
Athenry - Cthenry Castle outer walls
With this being our last afternoon in this area we drove a very long 80km to Westport, up to the north west. Stopped there for some lunch and then headed back along some very narrow and bendy roads.
Westport Jetty area
We had an early start as we had a two hour drive back to Dublin in order to meet up with Julie, Steve & the grandkids, as they were arriving from London around 10.30am. We got our car back to the hire people just before 11am, and then walked over to where Steve was waiting in a long queue to pick up there car. By midday and the car sorted we decided that rather than travel into Dublin for a hour or so, we would wait for Michael and Laura's arrival at 3pm. Once they had got the car for the four of us we headed to our hotel for the night at Termonfeckin, 40 kilometres north of Dublin. After a couple of drinks at the bar we called a night.
Termonfeckin - Flynns Hotel
Another early start as we were booked in to the 9.00am tour of New Grange, a huge 5000 year old tomb and winter solstice aligned mound. Inside the tunnel there was a major room beautifully built and dry and the sun shone straight in on the winter solstice. Sadly no photos were allowed, so you'll just have to visit to see it.
New Grange
New Grange - Entrance to the tunnel
A one hour drive brought us into Carlingford, an old medieval town with several old fortified buildings. We took a walk and had lunch in a tea room.
Carlingford Harbour
Carlingford Castle
Carlingford Castle
Carlingford - Gate and Prison
Another hour's drive brought us in to Lisburn and we drove round while I showed and described all the history of my childhood. After that we booked into our B&B before heading out for a bbq with all my Stewart cousins and families. Very pleasant evening was had by all.
After picking up Millie's favorite jumper that had been left at last nights bbq, we headed up towards the Antrim Coast Road that leads you through the famous Glens of Antrim, including a quick stop to look at the Kilwaughter site where Mun and Dad had a market garden. First stop was the Carrick A'Rede rope bridge where it started to rain, but it was open and we managed to tick off the bucket list.Â
Carrick A'Rede Rope Bridge
Giants Causeway
Dunluce Castle
Continuing the drive we stopped at the Giants Causeway. Di and I took a rest while the others took a look around ( we've been there several times before). The rain got heavier and we headed to Londonderry and booked into our house for the night close to the wall.
We had a two hour drive back towards Belfast to visit the Ulster Folk Museum at Cultra. We have always enjoyed visiting this museum with lots of activities going on, and the grandkids loved it.
Cultra - Ulster Folk Museum
Cultra - Ulster Folk Museum
Cultra - Ulster Folk Museum
Next we had to drive across Belfast to get to our hotel at Carrickfergus. We had planned to visit the castle, but it had started raining and the wind was freezing, so we decided to leave it until the morning.
In the evening we met up with some cousins.
The weather was much better this morning, so we walked around the walls of Derry (Londonderry)
We were heading back to Dublin via the mountaIns of Mourne at Newcastle, County Down. We walked around the town and had some fish and chips that were probably the best had in a long time. Even my son liked them!
Newcastle, Co. Down - the Mountains of Mourne
We hit some heavy traffic in Newry, but then had a good drive into Dublin. I came down with some bug - sore throat, headache etc. (Not Covid!) The others went out to dinner at our favorite Irish Pub.
Up early to catch our flight to Glasgow and on the way to the airport got a message saying that it was going to be delayed one and half hours, so we could slept in.