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The previous owner had removed all the rigging (and placed all the components in a bag), so she could be used more comfortably as a fishing boat. I want to have her back as a sailing boat rigged to the original Hartley design.
Re-establishing the rigging
Re-establishing the rigging
September 2018
September 2018
I want to re-rig the yacht back to the original design, so where original rigging components were sound, these were used, but new rigging items were purchased that matched the original Ronstan or Riley part numbers (such as bow fitting and chain plates).
As all the rigging had been removed, measurements had to be made to re-establish to position of chain-plates, bow fitting and mast step. None of these have actually been fitted yet, but I now know what bolts and screws are required and will be fitted (temporarily) until repainting is undertaken after the hull repair. I had to get this part of the rigging sorted out early, so that the mast could be used to pull the hull on to its side – to make the hull repair much easier.
The rest of the rigging (stay, shrouds and halyards) are currently being replaced.
The jib and main sheet systems will have to wait until all the other repairs are complete.
October 2018
October 2018
Chain-Plates
Rather than create new holes in the yacht, the areas around where the positions should be were stripped and the original filled chain plate slots located and cleared.
I simply had to use a 3mm drill to remove the old putty, and the new chain-plates fitted exactly. ( I had the old chain-plates, but they had seen a fair bit of use and the new ones only cost a few dollars.)
Bow Fitting
Part of the old bow fitting was still there, so this was removed. There was a small piece of softness next to the bottom hole, so some dowel and epoxy should sort that out. A bit of sanding was required to get the new original bow fitting to fit exactly.
The old fitting removed and sanding back complete. The new bow fitting will fit well.
Mast Step
The measurements for the mast step location are exact and according to the plans. I could not see the original holes, so I remeasured from the bow, ensuring the post in the cabin is aligned properly. If I happen to be in the same location as the original holes, they will be dowelled and glued and then re-drilled. I will have a new step built as the existing one has seen a lot of work and is a bit bent.
Mast Crutch (for travelling)
The old mast crutch was a bit broken, and the mounting points lost, so a new crutch was made and mounting holes drilled. This will be modified to be a triangle crutch for mast and boom.
December 2018
December 2018
New Standing Rigging
I had all the standing rigging replaced.
New diamond stay and shrouds
Speaders refitted
Lower diamonds connected
January 2019
January 2019
Raising the Mast
The forstay fitting, the chainplates and the old mast step have now been fitted temporarily - so I can turn the hull on its side to fix the planking.
New forestay bow fitting.
New chainplates bolted on
Mast raised for the first time with all the new standing rigging. Still need to adjust the strouds a fair bit...
February 2019
February 2019
New stainless steel mast step fabricated and fitted.
The rudder fittings have been re-established and along with the shrouds will be removed so the topsides can be painted.
March 2019
March 2019
The jib sheet tracks and cleating positions have been established and then removed for cabin and deck painting.
I think I'll take an inch or so of the height of the hand rails to keep the sheet movement free.
The mast head wooden blocks around the main halyard have been replaced and epoxied. It will be cleaned up once the epoxy has set.
April 2019
April 2019
Bow and forestay fittings complete.
Main Traveller fittings. I have decided to revert to the simple rope based traveller (a la Laser). If this doesn't work well, then I'll revert to having the track traveller in the middle of the cockpit. This way the main rope will be from the cleat near the mast cradle to fair leads near the seats (not visible on this photo) over the top of the tiller and back to the cleat - to adjust the height and travel of the block connected to the main sheet. On each side is a saddle and small block (yet to be fitted) and a cleat. A line will connect from the main sheet to the cleat via the block to adjust the amount of traveller out. All very basic and simple.
Jib track and block, and cleat for the opposite sheet fitted on both sides.
The rivets holding the goose neck track had pulled out and holes were now too big to hold new rivets (I tried).
I cut a piece of flat aluminium to size, drilled holes in the correct places for the four bolts, glued the nuts on to the aluminium and glued a long piece of dowel to the end of it - so I could position the aluminium correctly inside the mast, and then screwed in the bolts. Removed the dowel. It worked!
I've been working on completing the rigging. Nothing much to show in photos, but time consuming.
- Main sheet block positions on the boom have been changed to suit the new traveller.
- New running rigging for the Cunningham at the mast.
- The main halyard fittings have been changed to more suit cruising.
- Boom Vang fittings have been added to the cabin top.
- New running rigging for the main outhaul.
A BIT ON THE ENGINE
I just got the Johnson outboard back from the service centre. It only required some work on the water pump. Asked him if I should just keep it for Hartley get-togethers? "No, use it as much as you want, it's running beautifully!" Great news!
Stainless steel engine mount to protect the transom.
MAY 2019
MAY 2019
Setting up the running rigging.
Test setup of running rigging.
Yes, I know the boom is not level!
I used a short piece of cord attached to the main halyard to hold it up as I haven't got a topping left setup yet for the main.
Here is the traveller setup. The height can be adjusted using the triangle tied off on the cleat. The main sheet position on the traveller is controlled by two lines (port and starboard). This allows the full range of the traveller to be used, including to windward of centre.
We'll see how it works out.
Main sheet position keeps the cockpit clear.
New block and swivel for the main sheet.
Jib sheets look OK.
If you look closely, the top of the hatch lip has worn away over the years. Nice piece of "character". As a matter of interest, there is also wear where the jib rubs on the edge of the hull (gunwale ) when going downwind. All part of her history.
First time raising the sails. These sails are 35 years old (the jib is better than the main), but in OK condition for cruising.
So the list of things to fix before sailing are:
- The jib halyard wouldn't lock in the housing at the top. (Fixed)
- A cord from the jib tack to the eye at the deck. (Done)
- I need to mark the correct position for the boom on the mast at the gooseneck. (Done)
- Replace the main outhaul line (not urgent).
- Add the boom topping lift. (Done)
- Vang cleat longer bolts. (Done)
June 2019
June 2019
Just about ready for her first sail.....
I've built a longer mast crutch that sits on the rudder pintles to make raising and lowering the mast easier.
(The lower crutch is for travelling and storage.)
July 2019
July 2019
Added roller furling to the jib to make single handling easier. I have also added slugs to the mainsail to make raising easier and added a R clip to the bottom of the slide on the mast to stop the slugs falling out when dropping the mainsail.
Traveller set up working OK.
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