Dr Ken Mudge on Cutting Propagation
Most of secret is in controlling environ, esp to not let cutting dry out--by managing:
-Light
-Heat
-Environ Humidity
Germination .
GA:
--Water--"Imbibition"--Seeds take in enough to stay moist..en, not soak, for most. Some say 100% humidity--can be done w/vibrating nebulizer (fog) or heating water (ie crockpot)
--Oxygen--Aerobic respiration is the main source of the seedling's energy until it grows leaves. Don't drown them.
--Temp--75-90F for most annual veggies---Even seeds from the same plant germinate over a wide range of temperatures.some require vernalization (cold shock) before
--Light--Most seeds are not affected by light or darkness, but many seeds, including species found in forest settings, will not germinate until an opening in the canopy allows sufficient light for growth of the seedling.[2]
GERMINATION CHAMBER--
--Insulated, dark, fogger, thermostat heat.
--Ex1--Styrofoam box w/ fogger & t-stat heat source such as heat mat or aquarium heater in water bath, or crock pot. Shelves to slide trays in, which allows air circulation, w/o fan. . Could test concept in cheap styro ice chest.
Getting Old Seeds to germinate--
--Sterilize=soak in regular H2O2 diluted 20:1 abt 20 min
--Soak in sterilized solution of sugar & water w/ O2 source in water 2hrs--sugar water soaks in
--Germinate in sterile coco coir + sugar solution ---seed will grow roott. When 2" long, transplant into soil pot.
SOURCES--
---WikiPedia
Seed germination depends on both internal and external conditions. The most important external factors include temperature, water, oxygen and sometimes light or darkness.[2] Various plants require different variables for successful seed germination. Often this depends on the individual seed variety and is closely linked to the ecological conditions of a plant's natural habitat. For some seeds, their future germination response is affected by environmental conditions during seed formation; most often these responses are types of seed dormancy.
Water is required for germination. Mature seeds are often extremely dry and need to take in significant amounts of water, relative to the dry weight of the seed, before cellular metabolismand growth can resume. Most seeds need enough water to moisten the seeds but not enough to soak them. The uptake of water by seeds is called imbibition, which leads to the swelling and the breaking of the seed coat. When seeds are formed, most plants store a food reserve with the seed, such as starch, proteins, or oils. This food reserve provides nourishment to the growing embryo. When the seed imbibes water, hydrolytic enzymes are activated which break down these stored food resources into metabolically useful chemicals.[2] After the seedling emerges from the seed coat and starts growing roots and leaves, the seedling's food reserves are typically exhausted; at this point photosynthesis provides the energy needed for continued growth and the seedling now requires a continuous supply of water, nutrients, and light.
Oxygen is required by the germinating seed for metabolism.[3] Oxygen is used in aerobic respiration, the main source of the seedling's energy until it grows leaves.[2] Oxygen is an atmospheric gas that is found in soil pore spaces; if a seed is buried too deeply within the soil or the soil is waterlogged, the seed can be oxygen starved. Some seeds have impermeable seed coats that prevent oxygen from entering the seed, causing a type of physical dormancy which is broken when the seed coat is worn away enough to allow gas exchange and water uptake from the environment.
Temperature affects cellular metabolic and growth rates. Seeds from different species and even seeds from the same plant germinate over a wide range of temperatures. Seeds often have a temperature range within which they will germinate, and they will not do so above or below this range. Many seeds germinate at temperatures slightly above 60-75 F (16-24 C) [room-temperature if you live in a centrally heated house], while others germinate just above freezing and others germinate only in response to alternations in temperature between warm and cool. Some seeds germinate when the soil is cool 28-40 F (-2 - 4 C), and some when the soil is warm 76-90 F (24-32 C). Some seeds require exposure to cold temperatures (vernalization) to break dormancy. Seeds in a dormant state will not germinate even if conditions are favorable. Seeds that are dependent on temperature to end dormancy have a type of physiological dormancy. For example, seeds requiring the cold of winter are inhibited from germinating until they take in water in the fall and experience cooler temperatures. Four degrees Celsius is cool enough to end dormancy for most cool dormant seeds, but some groups, especially within the family Ranunculaceae and others, need conditions cooler than -5 C. Some seeds will only germinate after hot temperatures during a forest fire which cracks their seed coats; this is a type of physical dormancy.
Most common annual vegetables have optimal germination temperatures between 75-90 F (24-32 C), though many species (e.g. radishes orspinach) can germinate at significantly lower temperatures, as low as 40 F (4 C), thus allowing them to be grown from seed in cooler climates. Suboptimal temperatures lead to lower success rates and longer germination periods.
Light or darkness can be an environmental trigger for germination and is a type of physiological dormancy. Most seeds are not affected by light or darkness, but many seeds, including species found in forest settings, will not germinate until an opening in the canopy allows sufficient light for growth of the seedling.[2]
Scarification mimics natural processes that weaken the seed coat before germination. In nature, some seeds require particular conditions to germinate, such as the heat of a fire (e.g., many Australian native plants), or soaking in a body of water for a long period of time. Others need to be passed through an animal's digestive tract to weaken the seed coat enough to allow the seedling to emerge.[2]
Soil Block Mix
3 buckets brown peat (standard peat moss, use a premium grade)
½ cup lime. Mix ingredients together thoroughly.
2 buckets coarse sand or perlite
3 cups base fertilizer (equal part mix blood meal, colloidal phosphate, and greensand). Mix.
1 bucket garden soil
2 buckets well-decomposed compost. Mix ingredients together thoroughly.
* David Tresemer, author of the Ladbrooke Soil Blocker Booklet Transplants in Soil Blocks, has a favorite recipe:
4 parts peat moss
1 part well-rotted compost
1 handful of ground calcium limestone for every cubic foot of mixture
1 handful of ground basalt rock powder
* Thalassa Cruso recommends:
2 parts peat moss
1 part vermiculite
1 part good garden soil (if you have that “chocolate cake” kind of friable soil)
small amount of clay dust as a binder
20 units perlite
30 coco coir
20 compost
1/8 unit lime
10 soil
3/4 unit base fertilizer
(equal parts green sand+blood meal+ colloidal phosphate)
sift the mix so it is fine.
oxygenate the water