X Files from the Bog: Ullswater

Ullswater: "The Dark Lake"

Ullswater is one of the largest lakes in Cumbria, an old land of the Cymrae once known as the Kingdom of Rheged, and the heart of Yr Hen Ogledd, the Old North. The lake is about nine miles long and three quarters of a mile across at its widest. It reaches a maximum depth of 207 feet. The name of the lake may come from ‘Ulfr’s Water’ - Ulfr being a Viking name - or perhaps "Ullr's Water", after a Viking god. Then again 'Ull' is Norse for wool, and the lake may have been used to wash the wool of the sheep whose descendants can still be seen hoovering up the grass on the nearby fells.

Known for centuries as "The Dark Lake", the myths of Ullswater include monsters haunting its depths and stalking its grassy shores. Such tales may well predate comparative Viking newcomers.

The earliest settlers in the area are evidenced by a number of cairns which surround Ullswater. One of these is The Cockpit, a stone circle at Moor Divock where 75 stones can still be seen in the boggy ground overlooking the lake. This is one of three circles in the area, all of which date back to at least the Bronze Age.

A number of Iron Age hill forts are also in evidence. Whether they were built to protect the inhabitants against beasts crawling out of the lake, or simply as a defensive measure against other tribes might be a matter of speculation....

Dunmallard & Maiden Castle

Ullswater is fed by streams which cascade down from the adjacent fells. The water flows out at the northern end of the lake through the River Eamont, which is spanned by Pooley Bridge before feeding into the River Eden a few miles north. Pooley Bridge is overlooked on its northern side by Dunmallard, an old Celtic name meaning 'hill of slaughter'. Dunmallard once had a well on its south side, which would likely have flowed into the Eamont. On its summit, cloaked by a deep forest, can be found the remains of an Iron Age fort - the defensive ditch still remains visible.

A couple of miles to the west is Caerthannoc, also known as Maiden Castle, a mysterious low-lying earthworks of the first millenium BC.

Tristamont

Meanwhile at Waterside - about a mile or so from the village of Pooley Bridge - lies Tristamont, which is reputed to be the burial mound of Sir Tristram, one of the Knights of the Round Table. He was the son of Meliodas, King of the lost land of Lyoness, and his mother Elizabeth is said to have died during his birth.

As young man he became champion to King Mark of Cornwall, who was a shameless coward. Tristram slew Marhaus of Ireland on Mark's behalf in a fight over tribute allegedly owed to King Anguish (Angus) of Ireland. A truce with King Anguish resulted and it was agreed that his daughter...the fair Princess Isolde...would be wedded to King Mark. Tristram was dispatched to Ireland to escort the bride to Cornwall, but on the return voyage, it mishapped that Tristram and Isolde drank a love potion and fell in love with each other. The thirst of that love was never slaked, and one day when Tristram was playing the harp to Isolde, his jealous uncle slew him from behind with a dagger.

Aira Force & Patterdale

Other Ullswater legends include the ghost of Emma, daughter of the Duke of Norfolk, who loved Sir Eglemore, another knight of the Round table. Eglemore lived in Lyulph’s Tower which can still be seen on the western side of Ullswater near Aira. Emma and Sir Eglemore became betrothed to each other and would hold trysts at a holly bush at foot of Aira Force, an impressive waterfall which cascades down into the lake.

As a knight errant Sir Eglamore spent time away from Emma and in her loneliness she began to sleepwalk. One evening he returned late and did not want to wake her, so he slept by the falls. He awoke to the sight of what appeared to be the phantom of Emma, and he reached out to touch her. Wakening with a start, she stumbled and fell over the edge of the Force. He dragged her out but she died in his arms. Sir Eglemore lived out the remainder of his days as a reclusive hermit nearby.

A mile south of Aira Force lies the village of Patterdale, named after none other than St. Patrick of Ireland who preached there. St. Patrick's Well can be found to the north of the village close to the pier.

Legendary disappearances

One tale local to Ullswater is that in centuries past fairies would disport themselves in the moonlight at Kailpot Crag. Money thrown to them would disappear. The last reputed appearance of the "Wee Folk" was in 1850, when a certain Jack Wilson saw them leave forever on a moonlit night in Martindale, on the eastern shore of the lake.

Another legend tells of the Roman soldiers who built High Street above the lake and which runs northwards by Arthur's Pike to the fort of Brocavum outside Penrith.

They are said to have gone down to Sandwick Bay to fetch water but they never came back...nor could any trace of them be found. Did a beast from the lake get them?

Incidentally, the 9th century historian Nennius records that King Arthur's seventh battle took place at ‘Celyddon Coed’. This could have been on the River Eden at or near present day Celleron where High Street leads down from Arthur’s Pike towards the old Roman fortress at Brocavum. This ancient stronghold was extensively rebuilt between the years 1214 and 1309 to become Brougham Castle and it still stands today, lying to the south east of Penrith.

Monsters in the deep?

From these early times right up to the present day it has been suspected that monsters live in the depths of Ullswater. Other lakes in Cumbria have similar myths, including the legendary Eachy of Windermere and Bassenthwaite.

A recent Ullswater sighting includes that of Betty Wright in 2006, who reported:

"...last year my husband and I - and other passengers - had the same kind of sighting from about 30ft away whilst on the ferry crossing Ullswater. Huge grey eel like creature, humps breaking the water as it swims. two humps visible at the same time".