X-Files from the Bog: The Devil's Bridge

Devil's Bridge, Kirkby Lonsdale

The bridge across the river Lune near Kirkby Lonsdale is a truly impressive feat of medieval engineering. It has three arches spanning the gorge, each almost semi-circular in form, and which measure 16.7m, 16.7m and 8.5m across. Each one is made up of four ribs. The height of the bridge from the river to the highest point is about 13.7m, depending upon the level of the water.

The piers of the bridge continue upwards into rounded breakwaters. These in turn become parapets at road level in which pedestrians can stand to avoid oncoming traffic, or to look out over the scene.

How was it built?

The bridge is thought to have been built by the monks of St. Mary’s Abbey, York, around the year 1365. It is certain that it was constructed before the time of Edward I since there is a record of its repair in the third year of his reign. However, as the true story of its origin receded into the past, so the myths around it have grown. One early reference to this can be found in "A Guide to the Lakes", by Thomas West, first published in 1778:

"The country people have a tradition that it was built by the Devil one night in windy weather; he had but one apron full of stones for the purpose, and unfortunately his apron-string breaking as he flew with them over Casterton-fell, he lost many of them out, or the bridge would have been much higher."

But why was he supposedly building the bridge in the first place? Well, there is a folk-tale behind it, and variants of the same legend are associated with many other "impossible" bridges around Europe.

The Devil's bargain...

Once upon a time there was a woman who became separated from her cow which was on the other side of the river. Ever obliging to help folk out of their small troubles, the Devil appeared and a pact with him was made. The Prince of Darkness agreed to build a bridge across the river in return for the soul of the first living thing that crossed it, thinking of course that it would be the woman herself. By morning the bridge was complete and the old woman had to fulfill her part of the bargain. But she coaxed her dog to run across the bridge by throwing a bun to the other side. The animal duly scampered after it, and so the Devil was cheated. In a fit of rage at being so thwarted, he let out a howl of anguish and disappeared in a puff of fire and brimstone.

So what's in there anyhow? Any bottles?

Devil's Bridge is a very popular spot with Scuba divers. Parking is available on both sides of the bridge, and access down to river level is quite straightforward. I parked on the western side and geared up on the tarmac. A short walk through a gate and down a rough footpath took me to within a few yards of the piers. Getting in to the river was a piece of cake, and I soon reached a depth of about twenty feet. It was quite dark at depth although visibility was very good. When I did my dive the river was fairly calm and nowhere near being in spate. Nevertheless the current was appreciable and the eddies around the piers were quite strong. I therefore kept my initial survey to the western side of the bridge so as to avoid being swept downriver.

Unfortunately, no bottles were to be found. The river bed is very rocky and deeply grooved from erosion by the strong currents. It's quite clear that nothing deposited in the waters stays there for long before being scoured out by rainfall. So for bottle diving...forget it. But this would certainly make for an entertaining drift dive if you had a dive partner, and helping hands to rescue you downstream.

WEIRD-O-METER READING: MEDIU

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