X-Files from the Bog: Candlemas dive, Elvet Bridge, Durham

Candlemas by castle and cathedralThe first cross-quarter day of the old calendar falls halfway between Christmas and Easter. For a landscape still clasped in winter's grip this ancient festival brings hope of growth and renewal. Known in times past as Oimelc, or "ewe's milk", this first week of February marks the imminence of Spring lambing, and of pastures newly warmed by an ascendant sun. Euhemerised by the Church as Candlemas, and marking the feast days of St Cinnia and St Brighid, this is certainly a good time to brave the chill waters which are fed by their wells, and the newly melted snows sent tumbling from their mountains.

Now, I have for many years admired a certain spot on the River Wear, in Durham. The river forms a loop around the old city, with the castle and the Cathedral rising above it. In fact I've always loved the city itself, its character and its history, all of which find expression in the steep winding streets and ancient pathways that lead up from the river to the medieval walls.

Durham Cathedral is a particularly fine example of Norman architecture and houses the shrine of Saint Cuthbert of Lindisfarne. The treasures include relics of St Cuthbert, the head of St Oswald of Northumbria and the remains of the Venerable Bede. The adjacent castle was built in the 11th century to project royal power following the Norman Conquest in 1066. The Prince Bishop of Durham was appointed by the King to exercise royal authority on his behalf and the castle was his seat of power. The ancient bridges of Elvet and Framwellgate span the waters on the eastern and western sides of the city, under the fell gaze of the ramparts.

I chose Elvet Bridge for this dive. It dates from the time of Bishop Hugh de Puiset (1153–95), a powerful Prince Bishop who oversaw many construction projects across the north of England. It took a long time to complete: all but one of the arches were not finished until the 13th century. There are 10 visible arches although the river only flows through four of them...other arches may be hidden beneath the streets.

Getting there

I booked for the night in the Durham Marriot hotel. This is just a few score yards north of the bridge, and sits immediately beside a modern flyover bridge which relieves traffic from old bridge, now pedestrianised. I got up at about 5:30 am, drove the bottlemobile the few short yards to the flyover, and parked underneath it. Elvet Bridge lay now lay before me, about the same distance again to the south. I geared up hidden from view, and slipped into the pitch-black waters beneath the flyover at around 6am. Following the eastern shore just beneath the surface, I swept the dark bottom carefully, checking for obstacles and hoping for a bottle.