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Week 4: Yoga Warm Up and Finger Conditioning Part 3
Week 4: Yoga Warm Up and Finger Conditioning Part 3
Learning Objective:
1. Yoga moves and postures are very helpful in engaging these different aspects of climbing
Strength
Flexibility
Core Stability
Balance
Prevents Injury
Efficient Movement
Stay Calm
Perfect for warm up!
2. Part 3 of Finger Conditioning
Build up the finger muscles for different types of angles and climbing holds
Duration: 15-20 mins
Equipment: Just need to find a space and preferably a yoga mat / carpet
IMPORTANT:
IMPORTANT:
*STOP AT ANY TIME YOU FEEL ANY PAIN OR DISCOMFORT ON YOUR BODY AND REST
*STOP AT ANY TIME YOU FEEL ANY PAIN OR DISCOMFORT ON YOUR BODY AND REST
yoga for climbers
yoga for climbers
The Warm Up
The entire exercise will take between 8-10mins but you may break down each pose and movements, one at a time
Take your time to practice each movement and make sure you engage the correct muscles
Once you understand and have tried them individually, you may follow the video as they are doing the warm up
It's fine if your poses are not perfect at the start, take video of yourself and compare it with the instructor in this video. Progressively you will improve!
Focus on your breathing from start to end. Make sure you can feel and aware of your nose inhaling and your mouth exhaling
Try it with your siblings or parents!
1. Right after this warm up, rest for 5 minutes
1. Right after this warm up, rest for 5 minutes
3. Rest for 5 minutes
3. Rest for 5 minutes
4. Proceed with the full-crimp conditioning exercise below
4. Proceed with the full-crimp conditioning exercise below
See if there are any differences this time around. You would probably be more focused and perform better both mentally and physically!
See if there are any differences this time around. You would probably be more focused and perform better both mentally and physically!
Full-crimp.mp4
full crimp
full crimp
For this exercise, we will be loading the fingers in a full-crimp position
Bend your fingers and try to press your thumb on your index finger
Start off similarly in a position where you can hang for 5 seconds
Complete 8-10 hangs for each arm (no rest in between)
Focus:
Focus:
Press fingertips against the edge
Keep fingers locked as shown in the image
Keep your chest as close to the wall as possible
Recruiting the finger strength especially when holding on to very small climbing holds or rocks
Once you easily complete 10 hangs (each arm) and still have lots of energy left, progressively stand closer to the edge of the wall to increase intensity
Image: Journal of Sports Sciences (Amca et al., 2012)
Here's a video of Ashima Shiraishi from 2015. She was considered as a child prodigy in climbing. With hardwork, discipline and passion, she is now one of the best climbers in the world. Motivational and inspirational.
Here's a video of Ashima Shiraishi from 2015. She was considered as a child prodigy in climbing. With hardwork, discipline and passion, she is now one of the best climbers in the world. Motivational and inspirational.
Enjoy!
Enjoy!
Stay safe and take care!
Stay safe and take care!
Please feel free to contact Akmal at akmaluwc@gapps.uwcsea.edu.sg
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