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Week 3: Finger Conditioning and Strengthening
Week 3: Finger Conditioning and Strengthening
Learning Objective: Apply pressure on the fingers and apply the same force that are usually used when climbing up the wall. This exercise focus on loading the fingers with your own body weight. Highly recommend you do this once a day to recruit the finger muscles and tendon. We will work on different types of grips when climbing on different types of climbing holds.
1) Open-hand Grip
2) Half-crimp
Duration: 4-6 mins
Equipment: None! Just need to find an edge of a wall
IMPORTANT:
IMPORTANT:
*STOP AT ANY TIME YOU FEEL ANY PAIN OR DISCOMFORT ON YOUR FINGERS / WRIST AND REST
*STOP AT ANY TIME YOU FEEL ANY PAIN OR DISCOMFORT ON YOUR FINGERS / WRIST AND REST
Straight-fingers.mp4
Open-hand grip
Open-hand grip
Stand close to edge of the wall (start off with 2 steps away)
Place fingertips firmly on edge
Straighten elbow and lean back
Load for 5 seconds on one arm
If you can barely hang for 3 seconds, take one more step away from the edge to lower the intensity
5. Take 5 seconds rest, switch arms and start right away
6. Complete 8-10 hangs for each arm
Focus:
Focus:
Press fingertips against the edge
Keep fingers as straight as possible, slightly bent is fine
Keep your chest as close to the wall as possible
Once you easily complete 10 hangs (each arm) and still have lots of energy left, progressively stand closer to the edge of the wall to increase intensity
Image: Journal of Sports Sciences (Amca et al., 2012)
Half-crimp.mp4
Half-crimp
Half-crimp
For this exercise, we will be loading the fingers in a half-crimp position
Bend and lock your fingers in a 90 degrees
Start off similarly in a position where you can hang for 5 seconds
Complete 8-10 hangs for each arm (5 seconds rest in between)
Focus:
Focus:
Press fingertips against the edge
Keep fingers locked as shown in the image
Keep your chest as close to the wall as possible
Recruiting the finger strength especially when holding on to smaller climbing holds or rocks
Once you easily complete 10 hangs (each arm) and still have lots of energy left, progressively stand closer to the edge of the wall to increase intensity
Image: Journal of Sports Sciences (Amca et al., 2012)
Allez and Have Fun!
Allez and Have Fun!
Stay safe and take care!
Stay safe and take care!
Please feel free to contact Akmal at akmaluwc@gapps.uwcsea.edu.sg
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