My visit to the Chiang Kai-Shek Memorial Hall was profound for a number of reasons. Architecturally, the campus is stunning, with Forbidden Palace-style opera houses and theaters flanking the memorial. The memorial itself is so reminiscent of the Lincoln Memorial in DC that I almost felt like I was walking up the same steps.
The memorial has a complex history, however, and I was aware of this because of my readings of "The Boy from Clearwater." I was incredibly impressed when I entered the museum wing of the building and found a carefully curated display about censorship and protest-- with the graphic novel I'd read at the center!
This exhibit draws parallels between different protest and resistance groups throughout history, inspired by a song called "Flowers of Freedom" from the Hong Kong Pro-Democracy Movement. Many resistance movements in history gained their names from flowers, including the Wild Lily student rebellion that arose during the White Terror in Taiwan. This exhibit was incredibly moving, and even more poignant that it was included in the Chiang Kai-Shek Memorial Hall, which is dedicated to someone who was at the center of the White Terror. It is clear that this memorial and the Taiwanese people in general are trying to reckon with a complicated part of their history in a respectful and inclusive way.
This robot displayed an installation of "banned books" and dystopian societies, which feature dictatorships who attack knowledge as a source of rebellion and hope. As an English teacher, it is always inspirational to see people fighting against censorship and praising narratives that show how people can work together for the greater good.
Something else that was special about this exhibit is the global component of the exhibit. The themes presented in this exhibit extend beyond Taiwan to encompass so many different countries with a shared or similar experience.
As I explored the exhibit, I was so surprised to come across a very impactful section dedicated to the graphic novel The Boy from Clearwater, a memoir of one man's experiences during the White Terror.
Having read this to prepare for my Taiwan travels, I was so touched to see the impactful memoir had an entire section dedicated to it hear. It really demonstrated the impact that literature and memory has on a culture, especially to shed light on some of the darker moments in a country's history.
Overall, this exhibit, and this place, were such a powerful milestone in my Taiwan journey. It was incredibly interesting to see how a country was reckoning with a darker side of their past and transforming what could be viewed as a monument to dictatorship into an educational opportunity exploring dissent, freedom, and authentic voices.
Something else I noticed about this place was how many tourists from all over flocked to give feedback and words of support and connection. At the end of the exhibit was a wall where visitors could share their reactions, and this was covered with the experiences of people from everywhere in the world. I was able to speak with a few fellow tourists, and overall they were excited to learn that teachers were visiting an exhibit like this, as a representation of all that global learning can accomplish.