'Rainbow Bells' are usually sold in sets of 8 diatonic bells, although other options are available. They are made from pressed steel, and all bells within a set are the same size, with slight differences in the profile to give different notes. There are two sizes of bell available. The large size has a 75mm diameter, while the small size has a 40mm diameter. The clappers consist of a ball on the end of a spring, making it difficult to use the bells for ringing changes or tunes, and the small plastic handles are also less than ideal.
Some instructions for converting the larger size bells to be suitable for change ringing have been produced by Richard Johnston. Those instructions can be downloaded here, and a description of the process can also be found on the Learning to Ring Handbells website.
This page gives instructions for a similar modification suitable for the smaller size bells. Unlike the process needed for the larger bells, there is no riveting or gluing involved, so that the bells can easily be dismantled and adjusted. As the pictures make clear, no great precision or engineering skills are needed!
This will be enough to make a set of 8 bells.
One set of 8 Diatonic Rainbow Handbells. These are readily available from Amazon or Ebay, with prices in the range of ÂŁ10 - ÂŁ20 per set.
Leather belts, about 30mm wide and 3mm thick. Two belts will probably be enough for eight bells, depending on how long you want to make the handles, and your waist size.
One silicone rubber oven glove, or another source of similarly flexible rubber sheet about 1mm thick. These can be obtained from pound shops.
One washing-up glove, or another source of similarly flexible rubber sheet about 0.25mm thick. Disposable latex gloves are not suitable, as the rubber is too thin.
Sixteen M5 x 6mm binding screws (also known as 'Chicago Screws'). Each screw comes as a pair of components which fit together. These are readily available from Amazon.
Eight 3/8" tap washers.
Eight Robart 3/16" Super Hinge Points. Packs of fifteen are available as part number F-RB310
Leather hole punch
Screwdriver
Ruler
Junior hacksaw or razor saw
Straight cut aviation snips or craft knife. These will be needed to cut the leather belts - it will be easier with snips.
Scissors or mini-snips. These need to be small enough to use inside the bells.
This describes the procedure to convert a single bell. It is worth converting one bell first, then setting up a 'production line' to do the rest.
Using the leather belts
Cut a 25mm diameter disc. Punch a 5mm hole in the centre.
Cut a strap approx 240mm long. Punch 5mm holes in each corner at one end, with the centres about 10mm from the end and 6mm from the edge. Fold the strap in half, and use the two holes as a guide to punch two more holes in matching positions at the other end.
Using the 'oven glove' rubber
Cut a disc about 20mm diameter. Punch a 2mm hole in the centre.
Cut two rectangles (you might need more or less of these, depending on the thickness of the rubber and the belts) about 15mm x 28mm (2mm less than the width of the belts). Punch two 5mm holes in each rectangle. These should be at the same spacing as those in one end of the strap, so using those as a guide is useful.
Cut one rectangle about 25mm x 8mm. Punch a 2mm hole in the centre.
Cut one rectangle about 5mm x 10mm.
Using the 'washing up glove' rubber
Cut one rectangle about 6mm x 40mm. Punch a 2mm hole at each end, 4mm from the edge.
Using one of the bells
Cut a 10mm section from the top of the handle. This will be used as a clapper ball, as the existing one is not suitable.
Remove the existing clapper ball, spring, and the remainder of the handle from the bell. You only need to keep the bell, the other items can be discarded.
Assemble the clapper
Push the 25mm x 8mm rubber rectangle over one end of the hinge pin. This will act as the clapper spring.
Push the ends of the thin rubber strip over the end of the hinge pin. Note how the rubber strip is twisted before the second end is put over the pin.
Roll the 5mm x 10mm rubber rectangle lengthwise and fit it in the hole in the new clapper ball. You might need to trim the rubber to allow it to fit.
Push the clapper ball onto the end of the hinge pin. The rubber inside the ball should hold it securely. If it is too difficult to fit the ball then remove the rubber, trim it slightly, then try again.
Stretch the thin rubber strip over the clapper ball. It should fit tightly and cover opposite sides of the ball.
If the fit is loose, then trim one end of the strip, punch another hole in it and try again. One rubber glove allows far more of these than needed to be made, so don't worry if you cut off too much and need to make another.
Push a tap washer over the other end of the hinge pin. It should go almost as far as the middle of the pin.
Fit the clapper
Push the clapper assembly into the bell and through the rubber disc.
Push the rubber disc over the exposed end of the hinge pin.
Assemble the handle
Fit the female ends of the binding screws into the holes at one end of the leather strap.
Fit one of the 15mm x 28mm rubber rectangles over the binding screws. The screws should project about 1 - 2mm beyond the rubber. If they project more than that, then add more of the rubber rectangles.
Fold the leather strap and fit the holes in the other end over the binding screws. Fit the male parts of the binding screws. Do not fully tighten them yet.
When tightening the binding screws, you can stop the plain end of the screw from rotating by pressing against it with a piece of the rubber sheet.
Push the leather disc over the exposed end of the hinge pin.
Take the bell/clapper assembly and push the top of the pivot pin into the handle assembly, so that it passes between the binding screws. When the leather disc is in contact with the handle, tighten the binding screws so that the bell is not loose.
Hold the handle and the clapper shaft inside the bell. Twist the clapper so that it will swing at the correct angle, push the clapper harder against the handle, then tighten the binding screws some more. Keep pushing and tightening until the bell/clapper is held securely by the handle.
If the handle will not hold the bell securely when the screws are fully tightened, then undo the handle, fit another rubber pad between the screws, and try again.
Adjust the clapper
Turn clapper ball so that the padded sides are in line with the clapper's swing. Also turn the spring so that it is in line with the direction of the clapper movement.
Adjust the spring so that it makes contact with the tap washer and not the bell, and holds the clapper 1 - 2mm clear of the bell. The adjustments can be made by a combination of moving of moving the spring up and down the clapper shaft, and by trimming it. Scissors or miniature snips can be used to trim the rubber inside the bell to avoid needing to dismantle it. Small adjustments can also be made by slightly rotating the spring.
Try ringing the bell. If the spring is correctly adjusted, then the bell will ring easily and will not double-clapper. Make further adjustments to the spring if needed.
Note: The leather disc is mainly for appearance, it should not be necessary to press against it when ringing (which could loosen the bell).
If preferred, you can make the bell louder by turning the clapper ball so that the un-padded sides make contact with the bell.