Objective - Understand how shutter speed affects motion in an image.
What is Due - 9 photos using the shutter speeds listed below.
TEMPLATE <--- click here
All photos will be shot in shutter priority mode (TV or S). You control the shutter speed in shutter priority mode while the camera controls the other settings to get a correct exposure. Make sure ISO is set to Auto. You will also practice controlling focal points, focus locking, and using a tripod.
Students may find it easiest to work in pairs for this assignment. Take 1 photos for each shutter speed listed below. One of the photos needs to blur the motion/action and the second photo needs to freeze the motion/action. That means that you will have to experiment with motions/actions to find a motion that is slow enough to be frozen at the shutter speed you are using, and then a different motion that is fast enough to be frozen at that same shutter speed.
Set the focal point to the center and focus on the subject while it is holding still. When the camera beeps, it is focused. Keep holding the shutter release button down halfway to let the subject start the movement. Take the photo to capture the motion (blurred or frozen).
Also practice taking good photos by using principles of composition and be aware of what’s in the background of your photo.
Every student needs to take their own photos!
1 photo need to be taken at the following shutter speeds.
1/1000
1/500
1/125
1/60
1/30
1/8
0”5
2"
4"
Teacher Sample
What is due? 6 photos. 3 photos with a long shutter speed and 3 photos using a fast shutter speed.
Objective: Use shutter speed as a means of creativity.
The purpose of this assignment is to help you think of how you can use shutter speed to create unique effects in your photographs. You will most likely need a partner and a tripod for this assignment (and a camera, of course!). Use Shutter Priority Mode (TV) and Auto ISO so that you can focus on setting your shutter speed. Consider lighting, composition, background, etc.
IT'S ALL ABOUT CAPTURING MOVEMENT
HOW to SUBMIT PROJECT:
After cropping and editing photo, upload YOUR BEST 3 to The Google Drive LINK
make sure photo file names include your name & shutter speed
Example: Renaud1-SS-1_1000 or Renaud2-SS-1_8 or Renaud3-SS-0.5
Fast Shutter Speeds
Long Shutter Speeds
What is Due? 12 photos all of one subject shot at the apertures listed below. 6 of the photos will be from one distance and 6 from the second distance.
Objective: Develop an understanding of how aperture and distance affect depth of field.
Add photos to the TEMPLATE <-- click here
All photos need to be shot in Aperture Priority Mode (AV or A). You will adjust the aperture (f/stops). Set the ISO to 200. If you have the kit zoom lens, set the focal length to 18mm so you can use the apertures listed below.
Students will work in pairs for this assignment. Each pair needs a subject that won't move, a tripod, and camera. Set up the subject and camera so that they are on the same level. Make sure that there is at least 20 feet between the subject and the background.
For the first set of 6 photos, place the camera about 2 feet away from the subject and focus on the subject. Take a photo at each listed aperture.
For the second set of 6 photos, place the camera about 10 feet away from the subject and focus on the subject. Take a photo at each listed aperture.
Photos need to be taken at the following apertures:
f/4 f/5.6 f/8 f/11 f/16 f/22
Every student needs to take his or her own photos!
All photos need to be edited in Photoshop/Lightroom and turned in as a contact sheet.
What's Due: 1 GIF
Using the timeline panel in Photoshop, insert each of your photographs to a frame and add text on each one to reflect the aperture used for each photograph.
What is due?
-2 sketches
-3 photos
-1 Artist Statement
Objective: You will learn how to underexpose for effect to achieve a silhouette.
File Format: JPG (combine all photos into 1 JPG in photoshop)
-the sketches and artist statement can be submitted however is easiest, jpgs or PDFs
A silhouette is when the light source is behind the subject and the exposure is set for the background, which makes the subject underexposed. The key to making a silhouette is that the light comes from behind the subject! Interesting silhouettes have interesting shapes and outlines. Remember, you can make your exposure darker by making the shutter speed faster, aperture smaller (bigger f-stop number), and a keep a low ISO.
The silhouettes must relate to each other. Include a artist statement about how these images connect
• one large image (two or more figures) or two-to-three images in a sequence
• excellent use of negative space
• highly detailed, clear image
• silhouette displayed together
What is due: 3 images, taken by you and editted in photoshop or lightroom
File Format: after editting in photoshop, export as JPGs
Mode: Manual or bulb
Shutter speed: 4 seconds or longer
F-stop or aperture: 8 or 10
ISO: 100
1. Determine base exposures. You need to determine the base exposures of the ambient light, before you even add any new light painting elements. Because you’re working with long exposure times, it can help to set your ISO to six stops higher than the ISO you’ll be using. If you’re using ISO 100, that means you’ll set it to ISO 6400. At that ISO, figure out how many seconds you need to expose the ambient light. One second at ISO 6400 is equal to one minute at ISO 100. Once you’ve figured out the exposure in seconds, set the ISO back to 100 and check the exposure in minutes. If it matches up, you have your base exposure time.
2. Focus the image. It’s important to focus your image before you start light painting, but that can be difficult in the dark. This is where the manual focus setting is useful. If you have the option of turning on an overhead light, you can do that in order to focus the camera. But if you don’t have an overhead light—like if you’re shooting outside—you can simply point a light source at a part of your scene that you know needs to be in focus. Leave that light source on as long as you’re focusing and turn it off once you’ve found your focus.
3. Begin the exposure. This is the fun part! It’s time to begin your exposure and start painting. The majority of cameras will allow exposure times of up to 30 seconds, so if you want a longer exposure time than that, set your shutter speed to bulb mode. Bulb mode means the camera will keep taking the photo until your finger leaves the shutter button (or remote shutter release).
3 Main Types of Light Sources for Light Painting
There are three main types of light sources for light painting:
1. On-camera light source. An on-camera light source means the element creating the light is a visible subject. With this technique, you actually step within the frame of the image and use a light source to “paint.” It’s a good idea to wear dark clothing if you’re choosing this technique, so that you don’t show up in the image yourself.
2. Off-camera light source. With an off-camera light source, you’re going to shine a light from outside the frame of the photo onto a section of the thing you’re photographing. Off camera light sources are great for highlighting specific objects or for changing the overall tone of the image.
3. Kinetic light painting. With kinetic light painting, you’re actually going to move the camera, not the light source. So, for example, you could create a candle light painting with the light emitted from a candle.
5 Light Painting Tips and Techniques
There are a number of different light painting tips techniques worth keeping in mind. These include:
1. Paint from different angles. Rather than shining a light from behind your camera (or directly at it), try painting surfaces from the side or above to bring out their textures. Shine a light source at ground level to add dimension and detail to the surface—this effect is especially great for grassy areas.
2. Wear the right clothing. If you’re using an on-camera light source, make sure your light is the focus of your photo (rather than the person holding it) by having them wear dark, non-reflective clothing.
3. Use a red filter for testing. When setting up your shots, it’s important to keep your eyes acclimated to the low-light setting. Instead of using traditional flashlights, which will ruin your night vision, try attaching a red filter to your testing lights.
4. Experiment with different surfaces. Reflective surfaces like metal, glass, and mirrors can create surprising effects in light painting. For other applications, rougher surfaces like stucco and wood absorb more light, while transparent materials like cloth can filter your light source in interesting ways.
5. Experiment with movement speed. How bright your light painting will be depends on how quickly you move your light source. For instance, the longer you hold a light source in a specific spot, the more time your camera sensor will have to absorb it, and the brighter it will appear in the finished photo. Experiment with fast and slow movements to create shading effects that add complexity to your photos.
ARTIST INSPIRATION:
-Michael Bosanko