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How to open or dismantle a Genelec 6010A
It opens up by removing one long bolt that clamps the two aluminium shells together. The bolt head is hidden under the big label, and needs a hex key size 4 mm. Between the shells are only a rubber seal, no glue, so a gentle pull will be enough to separate them. A set of wires goes from front to back, so avoid pulling on them, but pull out its plug from the PCB.
Inside are torx 10 heads on the bolt holding the port and PCB.
Removing the PCB from the back shell is more tricky, as the amplifier IC is clamped hard to the back shell, and there is a small, slightly sticky air seal between shell and PCB around the input and controls in the lower part of the PCB. To me it seems easiest to first remove the bass port, then the clamp and then screws holding the PCB. The plug for the transformer wires has a latch on its back side.
The IC clamp can be released by loosening a screw (also TX10) behind that hole in the PCB just left of the double row of legs for the power amp IC. (It is the remaining PCB hole not used by the long bolt or any of the screws that fixates the PCB.)
When assembling it is important to get the grey pad for galvanic isolation and heat transfer to be places correctly between the heat sink housing of the power amp IC and the shell. The back of the IC should be covered completely. I placed it in the shell and pressed the PCB and IC into place.
I opened it to repair the phono socket. No bad connections on the PCB, but between two parts of the socket itself. Four joints hold the outer barrel to the base, and they were broken off. The metal parts took solder fine, so I made a long solder joint around the circumference, for good mechanical support.
It has a mains fuse, and it is soldered in. You can see the black cylinder near the power socket and the power switch, with the name "F1" in white text on the green board. It is '200mA T 250 V'.
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