Bottle Feeding Kittens

The #1 thing to remember when fostering kittens is: WEIGH, WEIGH, WEIGH!! The overwhelming majority of kittens who pass away in foster care do so because they were not weighed as frequently as they should have been.

WHAT TO DO WHEN YOU GET YOUR KITTENS HOME:

• Get your kittens settled into their habitat. Make sure they have a heat source!

• Be sure to kitten proof their area, and watch out for any common household hazards.

• Feed and care for your kittens as instructed, referring back to the Feeding/Care Guide.

• Record their weights and make notes about progress on the Daily Care Sheet.

• Spend time playing with your kittens and socializing them, if they’re old enough!

• Give kittens plenty of time to rest. They will sleep much of the day—this is normal.

NON-URGENT MEDICAL:

If your kittens start to show any signs of mild-to-moderate illness – sneezing, vomiting, diarrhea, not eating, runny nose, goopy eyes, hair loss, going outside litterbox, mild weight loss, fleas, etc – contact the medical team via email at: vetting@gatewaypets.org

!!!*** FOR MEDICAL EMERGENCIES CALL ANYTIME DAY OR NIGHT ***!!!

929-FOSTER1

For kittens, a medical emergency includes head slumped/ body limp/ unable to rouse (Fading Kitten Syndrome), diarrhea that is very liquidy, white, bloody, or black, any rapid weight loss, mouth breathing, heavy/labored breathing, red/brown urine, vomiting and diarrhea together or within a short timeframe, seizures. Any injuries sustained while in foster care also warrant a call to the medical hotline!

OUTSIDE MEDICAL CARE:

● Please note that ONLY GPG may make medical decisions for our animals as long

as they are in our care. Our neonatal kittens remain in our care until they have been spayed/neutered

AND their adoptions have been finalized.

● Please note, too, that GPG cannot reimburse fosters for any outside vet bills incurred.

● If you would like for your foster cat or kitten to be seen by an outside vet, please reach out to GPG first

by following the non-urgent/emergency clinic contact guidelines above.

Feeding stage: Age range: Weight range: Feeding frequency

Bottle babies 0 to ~4 weeks 90 to 400 grams Every 2-3 hours (4-5 hours overnight)

Syringe gruel 3 to ~6 weeks 300 to 700 grams Every 4-6 hours (8 hours overnight)

Gruel/Kibble 5 weeks and up 700 grams and up Every 4-6 hours (8 hours overnight)

The most important thing to remember when caring for kittens is to WEIGH, WEIGH, WEIGH! The vast majority of kittens who pass away in foster care do so because they were not weighed as consistently as we require.

Bottle Babies

How to make formula:

• Feed PetAg KMR® powdered formula from bottle and/or oral syringe.

• Mix 2 parts water to 1 part powdered formula (unless otherwise advised)

• Shake well to dissolve lumps!

• Store mixed formula in the fridge up to 48 hrs.

• All kittens must eat 5% of their body weight at each feeding.

• All kittens must be weighed before and after feeding!

Feeding instructions:

• Gather kittens’ feeding charts and some warm towels.

• Warm formula up in the microwave until it is warmer than body temperature but not hot.

• Stir or shake to eliminate any hot spots.

• Kitten must be kept warm during feeding -- wrap in towel or blanket, preferably on heating pad set to Low.

• Feed kitten upright or on belly in a prone position, NOT on his/her back like a human infant!

• Bottle-feed the kitten first. Some kittens take awhile to latch on, so be patient! If kitten does not gain its 5% via the bottle, proceed w/ syringe feeding. Only use 1mL syringe.

• Watch for formula coming out of kitten’s nose or a rasping “wet” cough. This is called aspiration – it means the kitten has ingested formula into her lungs and is in danger of “drowning”. If one of your kittens is aspirating, you need to do two things:

  • • Immediately email vetting@austinpetsalive.org

    • Wait for about an hour to make sure all of the formula has come out of the kitten’s nose and then continue feeding.

• Weigh kitten periodically throughout feeding process – the kitten is only done eating when she has gained her 5%. Thoroughly clean off any formula on kitten’s fur and dry kitten off. (Formula will stick and is very hard to remove if it dries and is also painful for the kitten!)

• Weigh and record after-food weight!

• After each meal, stimulate kitten w/ cotton ball or alcohol-free baby wipe to help with urine/stool bowel movement. The kitten will not always have to go, but it is crucial that this step is performed after every feeding. Failure to stimulate orphan kittens can lead to serious illness and/or death.

Syringe Gruelies

Bottle babies should be switched to syringe gruel when they reach 3.5-4 weeks old (when all 4 canine teeth begin to grow in). Instead of KMR, kittens will now eat premium (only available at pet stores) canned kitten food mixed w/ water and blended to a smooth paste. It is important to note that the syringe gruel phase is, essentially, nothing more than a layover between nursing (formula or mama’s milk), and weaning (eating independently). So, at this stage, you should make sure your kittens always have access to kibble, gruel, (canned food w/ water), and a bowl of water, as eventually they will decide to go it on their own! Until that magical day, though, you will need to step in! Remember that just because you see your kittens eating on their own, this does not mean that they’re eating enough independently to maintain their health. Too often, fosters assume that because they’ve witnessed their kittens eating kibble or gruel from a bowl, those kittens don’t need to be syringe fed anymore. This is not the case – and failure to follow the steps outlined above can lead to serious illness and/or death of kittens.

How to make syringe gruel:

You will need a blender. Blend approximately one can of food with 1/3 to 1/2 can water (double, triple, etc as needed). Your syringe gruel should be about the consistency of a milkshake, and you should be able to easily draw it up into a syringe. Again, kittens must eat 5% of their body weight at each feeding. Kittens must be weighed before and after feeding.

Feeding instructions:

First, give your kitten the opportunity to eat independently! Offer kitten warmed up gruel and kibble in separate plates or shallow bowls. If kitten shows no interest after awhile, proceed with syringe feeding.

• With syringe in your dominant hand, use your non-dominant index finger and thumb to grip the kitten’s head at her temples. Tilt kitten’s head back at about a 45-degree angle, using your palm to gently force kitten into a seated position.

• Draw warmed syringe gruel (microwave to a bit above lukewarm temp – no more than 5-10 seconds) into 10mL syringe.

• Insert syringe into side of kitten’s mouth. Do not put syringe directly in front of kitten’s mouth (even if she tries to position herself this way!) as kitten could very easily choke. Slowly plunge syringe gruel into kitten’s mouth, removing the syringe every few seconds to allow her to swallow.

• Weigh kitten periodically throughout feeding process – the kitten is only done eating when she has gained her 5%! Always thoroughly clean off any gruel on the kitten’s fur. Dry kitten off well.

Gruelies

This is the last stage of kitten rearing – rejoice! When your kittens begin eating enough gruel and kibble on their own to gain weight consistently every day, you’re well on your way to throwing those syringes out! Don’t get too excited yet, though – your kittens will still need to be syringe fed if they’re not able to eat 5% of their bodyweight on their own. The switch from syringe gruel to gruel/kibble is not a magical “aha!” moment on your kitten’s part – it’s a process you’ll both need to work through very thoughtfully! Once you see that your kittens are gaining around 5% of their bodyweight on a daily basis, for at least 5 days, you can begin to weigh them twice a day, instead of every time they eat. NEVER go more than 24 hours without weighing your kittens – weight loss is the number one reason kittens pass away in foster care!

The Basics

Kittens must be kept in a safe and secure spot, and isolated from other pets (to prevent illness) for 10-14 days.

● Kittens must have access to a heating pad (on low setting) at all times.

● Do not give kittens baths. Young kittens can very easily become hypothermic. If kittens get wet, they must be blow-dried until they are completely dry. As an alternative, use a hypoallergenic baby wipe to clean dirty kittens.

● You are required to keep track of kittens’ weights, bowel movements, medications, and other health issues on your Daily Care Sheets.

For any questions or concerns about your kittens’ weights or general development, please contact vetting@gatewaypets.org

Kitten Developmental Milestones

● Kittens typically weigh about 80-120 grams at birth; they should gain about 100g/week.

● Eyes open at 7-10 days (eyes will be blue until kittens are 6-7 weeks old).

● At about 2 weeks, they will start crawling around (can inch around as early as 4 days).

● At 3-4 weeks, they’ll start to play with each other. The ears will start to stand up, and teeth will begin to come in.

● At 3-5 weeks, it’s time to start the weaning process – kittens should be well on their way to eating independently and using the litter box.

● At 6 weeks they should get their first vaccinations from GPG

● When kittens have reached 8 weeks old AND 2lbs (906g), they can be spayed or neutered, and go to their forever homes!

Setting up a Habitat

For Bottle Babies: Any medium sized bin, tub, crate, or carrier that measures around 20”x15”x15” (the size of a regular cat carrier) makes a great habitat for un-weaned kittens. Something that’s easy to clean is usually best (like a Rubbermaid storage bin). Place the heating pad (set on low) flat on one side of the containment area, and make sure that there is room for kittens to move off the heating pad if they get too warm. Cover the bottom of the containment area with a blanket or towel. Feel free to place stuffed toys and plenty of soft fleecy things in the habitat for the kittens to snuggle with.

For Syringe Gruel & Gruel Babies:

Once kittens are able to crawl out of their bin or ready to use a litter box, you can move them to a bigger space. Bathtubs are often great for this stage. Keep the heating pad available at all times, but still make sure that the kittens can move off of it. Place a small bowl of kibble, a saucer of gruel, and a stable, flat-bottomed cup of water in an accessible spot, away from their bedding. Fill a very shallow litter box (a box top or baking tin is fine) with non-clumping litter, and place it in an accessible spot away from the food dishes. At this point, the kittens will also want to play with toys! Feel free to give them plenty of plush dolls, balls, etc. Just make sure there’s nothing they could accidentally swallow or get tangled up in!

For Kittens Age 6 weeks and Up: At this age, kittens will likely begin door-dashing and trying to escape whatever enclosure they’re confined to. If you would like to give them free run of your home, please do so with extreme caution. Kittens can and will get into everything. Never leave them unsupervised, particularly when there are other pets and/or roommates where you live! Also, remember that the more space they have, the less likely they are to find their litter box! Most importantly, especially once they are over ~4 weeks old, make sure you socialize your kittens as often as possible! This is crucial to their development – they need to learn to love humans! Introduce them to friends, children, other cats -- not dogs, please -- always making sure they’re in a controlled environment and are being closely supervised.

Common Household Hazards for Kittens

Even the most experienced fosters sometimes overlook household hazards. The following is a list of things that we have seen cause injury to kittens.

● Rocking chairs - keep out of the kittens’ area

● Reclining chairs - kittens can easily crawl inside

● Toilets - keep lids closed at all times

● Bathtubs- keep water drained at all times

● Doors - make sure that kittens are not behind doors that are being opened

● Exits - keep unscreened doors and windows closed at all times when not in use

● Outdoors - do NOT allow kittens to go outside, NO EXCEPTIONS!

● Other cats - can sometimes be asymptomatic carriers of viruses that are more harmful to

kittens, or can be too aggressive with kittens

● Dogs - all dogs (but especially large dogs) can easily injure a kitten, often accidentally

● Washers and dryers - kittens can crawl inside of the machines unnoticed or get stuck behind them

● Other appliances - make sure that kittens cannot crawl behind or under refrigerators, ovens, etc.

● Holes - make sure any holes in drywall or cabinetry are plugged or blocked

● Small objects - rubber bands, strings, paperclips, and other small objects can be accidentally ingested

● Chemicals - make sure they are put away

● House plants - many are poisonous to cats, make sure they are out of reach

● Electrical cords - can be sprayed with bitter apple, covered with tape or “cord covers” to prevent chewing

Neonatal Health and Medical Overview

Common Medical Issue Overview

Neonates do not have fully developed immune systems and are susceptible to many illnesses and parasites, some of which they get from their mother at birth. Kittens need proper care and attention to ensure they grow up happy and healthy.

Alert the Clinic Manager if you notice:

• Aspiration (milk coming out of nose during feeding)

• Sneezing

• Coughing

• Eye and/or nasal discharge

• Wheezing; difficulty breathing

• Diarrhea

• Vomiting

• Straining to urinate or defecate

• Bleeding from any part of the body

• Abnormal twitches

• Walking in circles; walking into things

• Loss or decrease of appetite

• Steadily losing weight

• Change in attitude or behavior

• Lethargic or depressed

• Head slumped in food or water bowl

• Any unusual behavior

Upper Respiratory Infection (URI)

The term “upper respiratory infection” is used to refer to any illness that affects a cat’s upper respiratory system; it is basically a kitty cold. URIs are common in shelter cats. Common symptoms include sneezing, runny nose and/or eyes, fever, and loss of appetite. URIs are treated with antibiotics. If kittens are having difficulty breathing, they may also need to be nebulized. Be certain to keep kittens warm until they have recovered from a URI. URIs are very contagious to other cats and kittens through direct contact and can also be airborne. Feeders should be especially diligent about sanitation protocols when tending to sick kittens and should wash their hands after handling kittens with URIs.

FeLV and FIV

Feline leukemia virus (FeLV) suppresses the immune system and can cause cancer or other serious illnesses in susceptible cats. FeLV is fatal and the life expectancy of a mature, infected cat is 2–4 years; most FeLV+ kittens do not survive to maturity. FeLV is transmitted through saliva and nasal secretions, as well as through urine, feces, and milk from infected cats. The virus can also be transferred through a bite wound, mutual grooming, shared use of litter boxes and feeding dishes, sexual contact, and from a mother cat to her kittens while in utero or during birth. FeLV+ cats and kittens are not housed in the Neonatal Ward. Young kittens testing positive for FeLV are tested again when they are a little older to confirm the results of the first test, which commonly gives a false positive as antibodies from the mother can be detected in the kitten. FeLV does not survive long outside of the cat’s body, probably less than a few hours, so carefully adhering to established protocols should limit the possibility of transmission.

Feline Immunodeficiency Virus (FIV) is a virus that can cause a multitude of health problems in cats due to reduced immune system function; it is also known as feline AIDS. FIV is contagious, but only to other cats—people cannot get AIDS from their cats. Most cats with FIV live a normal life despite the virus and can live well with other cats as long as there is no aggressive fighting. Cats living indoors in a stable social structure have little chance of passing the disease to other household cats. Transmission occurs most commonly through deep bite wounds; less commonly, it is transmitted by an infected mother cat during birth or through sexual contact. If FIV is present, it should be noted on the litter’s crate and on the Feeder Board.

Mature cats and kittens six weeks and older are tested for both FeLV and FIV during intake at GPG. All kittens are tested for FeLV. Usually, if a mother cat has either of these two diseases, it is assumed the kittens will also have them, since mother cats can transmit them to their babies during birth.

Nebulizing

When kittens contract respiratory infections or any other illness that causes trouble breathing, a nebulizer is placed in their crate to administer a medicated mist they inhale, much like people using a humidifier. GPG will provide the nebulizer.

• Before setting the nebulizer up for a crate, check first to be sure it has all the necessary pieces and that it works—motor, tubing to go from the motor to the fluid reservoir, and a fluid reservoir. Be sure the tubing will remain attached to both the motor and the reservoir.

• Nebulizer solution is a mixture of fluid, an antibiotic and a steroid.

• Nebulizer solution should always be refrigerated; do not leave it out.

• Fill the reservoir with nebulizer solution.

• Put a towel or blanket over the crate’s door so that the mist stays inside the crate where the kittens can breathe it. Turn on the nebulizer.

• Check the nebulizer periodically to ensure it is still working properly and that it has not run out of fluid. The fluid will run out in about 30 minutes or so.

• Never leave a nebulizer running unattended.

• Never let a nebulizer run in a crate with an empty reservoir—an empty nebulizer will continuously blow cold air on sick kittens, which can lead to hypothermia and cause the kittens to fade.

• When the litter no longer needs to be nebulized, clean and sanitize the nebulizer and return it to its proper place.

Kittens that need to be nebulized will be easier to feed if they are nebulized first.

Eye infections

Eye infections are quite common with kittens—sometimes a kitty cold can move into the kitten’s eyes, and some kittens come to the nursery with eye ailments. These are usually treated easily with medicated eye drops or ointment.

• If you notice any eye discharge and the kitten is not currently being treated for any eye issues, note this on the kitten’s chart for evaluation.

• Clean discharge matter from a kitten’s eyes with a cotton ball or piece of gauze dampened with warm water or with a diluted solution of iodine or betadine, wiping gently so as not to hurt the kitten’s delicate eye area.

• Never double-dip a cotton ball or gauze in the warm water or medicated solution; always use clean gauze or cotton so as not to contaminate the water or solution.

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If a kitten has something more serious than simple conjunctivitis, other eye medications or treatment may be required. Shelters often see kittens whose eye infections or injuries will leave them partially or completely blind, and in some cases even require removal of the eye itself. These kittens are still highly adoptable and adjust very well to their condition.

FADING KITTEN SYNDROME

You are not receiving this handout because Fading Kitten Syndrome is a common occurrence, but rather because if you ever encounter this condition, YOU will need to take action IMMEDIATELY.

The worst thing you can do for a fading kitten is to take him/her to your vet – most kittens will not survive the car ride. YOU are this kitten’s best chance at making it.

Symptoms of FKS:

● Extreme lethargy — unable to stand or hold head up, not responding when touched

● Body feels cool to the touch (not just insides of ears – all over)

● Panting or gasping for breath

● Meowing/crying out in distress

If you see these symptoms, it is crucial that you take the following steps NOW:

Step 1: GET KITTEN WARM

Grab your heating pad and a towel. Place the towel over the heating pad, and place kitten on top of towel. Roll heating pad up to create a “kitten burrito” – like you’re swaddling an infant. Leave the kitten’s face exposed, and do not remove kitten from the burrito even if he/she

struggles and cries to get out! Make sure the heating pad is still on the low setting.

Step 2: GET KITTEN’S BLOOD SUGAR UP

Grab a small bowl and fill it with either corn syrup (Karo, etc), or sugar water. The more sugar content, the better. Make sure you have your syringe handy. Warm the contents up in the microwave for a few seconds until the liquid is a bit above room temperature. You will administer this sugar water (with the 1cc syringe) to the kitten while he/she is in the burrito. Give the kitten 1 drop into the side of its mouth every 3 minutes. Make sure the kitten is swallowing; if it can’t swallow, rub the drop on its gums instead.

Step 3: CALL EMERGENCY HOTLINE

929-FOSTER1

Please note: the medical technician will not instruct you to come to the clinic until the kitten is out of its fade.

Prognosis

We have a high success rate with these kittens when fosters follow the above steps! The process can take a while, so be prepared to administer the steps outlined above for minutes or hours.

We DO NOT recommend you rush your foster kitten to the vet for many reasons:

You have the motivation to sit right there with them and make them your top priority. A vet clinic has multiple patients who need help and won’t be able to give your kitten the 100% undivided attention you can give them. Your kitten will continue to be cold/hypoglycemic on the way to the vet, in the waiting room, and in the hospital while they try to determine what is wrong, etc. Most kittens won’t last long enough for them to begin treatment.

Keep in mind that it can sometimes take hours for them to come out of this state and start acting normally again. Don’t give up! Once they do come out of it, make sure you contact the med techs to discuss what could have possibly caused them to fade in the first place, and make sure we have the kitten on all the right medical treatments for any illnesses they have that may have caused it. Unfortunately, even if you’ve employed all of the steps outlined above to a tee, some kittens just won’t make it. Cats get pregnant very easily, and have A LOT of kittens, specifically because they are so fragile. If a kitten passes in your care, don’t blame yourself – these kittens would have had about a 0% chance of surviving if it wasn’t for you. Send us an email if your kitten has passed and focus on taking the best care of his/her littermates.

Thank you for everything you do, fosters!