Dog Introductions

METHOD ONE: "The GPG Shelter Method"

(As taught to us by Dogs Playing For Life)

This is the preferred method; please reach out to the GPG team if you would like to schedule a meet 'n greet in the shelter play yard!

If your foster will be interacting with other dogs, be sure to ask questions of the other dogs' owners about their dog's exposure and behaviors towards other dogs (i.e. potential adopters) : "Has the dog lived in a home with other dogs? How does the dog react to other dogs on walks or when approached" Historical behaviors can often indicate potential success or concern. Be smart and careful, and get help from GPG staff if needed!

1. 
   Prepare various "interrupters" before the meeting as a prevention if the meeting does not go smoothly. These items can help to interrupt a fight between two dogs. These items include: Shaker cans and jugs, pet corrector, air horns, baby pools, laundry baskets, and other items that can be inserted between two dogs.

2. Briefly have the dogs encounter each other on leash through a chain link fence to allow you to briefly assess the dogs' body language. (Keep it to less than 30 seconds).

3. If either dogs snarling, growling, charging the fence, (or freezing and fixating) or showing very negative body language, stop and rethink how to do the intro. Some dogs are naturally barrier-aggressive and will need follow METHOD TWO.

4. If neither dog is showing very negative signs, the dog inside the yard is moved away from the gate so that the other handler and dog can enter. LATCH THE GATE!

5. Quickly reassess both dogs' body language and if the signs from the dogs are relatively good, drop each leash to allow the dogs interact.

6. Handlers should not interact with the dogs. Do not gasp, scream, give verbal guidance or correction, etc. The dogs are allowed to do ANY DOG STUFF THEY WANT including humping, growling, chasing, correcting each other by snapping, etc. The idea here is that dogs are going to tell each other MUCH more clearly than humans can to them what they are comfortable with or not. Only interrupt their behavior if they are actually fighting or if one dog is actually getting repeatedly picked on or appears to be trying to avoid the other dog.

METHOD TWO: "Traditional tandem walking intros"

1. Prior to the dogs meeting, it is helpful to have them explore each other’s scent. You can do this by swapping out dog blankets, or just rubbing down each of the dogs and taking those towels to each of the homes for the dogs to smell.

2. Find neutral territory, such as the shelter yard, a neighbor’s yard, a training center, or small fenced park, for the dogs to interact. Do one-on-one dog introductions if there are more than one dogs in your home.

3. Take the dogs for a walk together. Keep them apart (at least 10 feet) and walk them in the same direction so that they are unable to stare at each other.

4. Take turns letting each of the dogs be in the lead, so that the following dog can read the other’s “pee-mail”. (Ideally, find a wide space so you can walk in circles, figure 8's, etc., alternating which dog leads and maintaining distance between them while they get used to each other)

5. Once each dog is comfortable you can try walking parallel (side-by-side) to each other. Keep plenty of space between you so that your dogs cannot reach each other.

6. Try & stop occasionally and ask each dog to pay attention to their handler. Ask for attention (give a "look" or "sit" command) & reward with a treat. If your dog will NOT take a treat, she might be over her threshold for stress. Increase the distance between each of the walking pairs. (Do NOT do this if either of the dogs has food aggression.)

7. Once you can easily get attention from both dogs, and they are both taking treats, it is time to let them meet each other.

8. Keep both dogs on leash but make sure leashes are kept loose, do not pull on the leash. Don’t force any interaction between the dogs.

9. Make the first introduction positive, light hearted and brief. As the dogs sniff and get acquainted, encourage them with a happy voice. Keeping initial greetings brief (2 – 3 seconds) and ending on a positive note. Do NOT pull your dog’s leash to get them to come back to you.

10. Closely observe the dogs’ body language. Stiff, slow body movements, tensed mouth or teeth baring, growls and prolonged stares are signs that a dog feels threatened or aggressive. If you see this, lead the dogs apart and give them more distance from each other.

11. If the introductions have gone well, once again walk them in a parallel manner shortening the distance between the dogs. Gradually have one person hold both leashes with one dog on each side.

12. Walk the dogs together around the house and the yard before taking them inside.

13. Prior to dropping the dogs’ leashes in the house, make sure ALL toys, bones, and chew items are picked up and put away.

14. When you drop their leashes for the first time, avoid closely confined spaces such as doorways, gates or small rooms. Avoid clustering people around the dogs, and allow the dogs room to move.

15. Once again, keep these play sessions short and end on a positive note. You can start to gradually increase the time they spend together.

16. Remember to always end when everybody is still getting along and being happy. You want your dog to be excited to see the dog at the next get-together.