High School

Week 2: Pinch Training

Learning Objective: Finger-Pinch Stretching and Strengthening. Progressively work on finger and wrist muscles that is used often especially during a pinching-motion as we're climbing on the wall.

There are 5 parts in this week's pinch-focus workout

1. Warm Up

2. Control and Strengthening

3. Hand-Eye Coordination Part 1

4. Hand-Eye Coordination Part 2

5. PINCH-Y Challenge

Duration: 10-15 mins

Equipment:

Prepare a set of books / novels of different sizes and weight (nothing too heavy!)
2 boxes / baskets

IMPORTANT:

*PLEASE MAKE SURE YOU TRY THIS WORKOUT WITH A TABLE IN FRONT OF YOU. YOU DO NOT WANT THE BOOKS TO FALL ON YOUR FEET. SLIGHTLY LEAN FORWARD IF YOU HAVE TO.

*STOP AT ANY TIME YOU FEEL ANY PAIN OR DISCOMFORT ON YOUR FINGERS / WRIST AND REST

BeginnerPinchTraining.mp4

warm up

Place the books in one box and leave the other one empty
Lift up one book at a time and transfer it to the other box
At each lift, hold the book close to your hips and pinch your fingertips and thumb hard for 2-3 seconds
Important tips: Keep your arm slightly bent and your back straight
After doing 1 repetition on each hand, you completed a set
Try this simple exercise for 4-5 sets with 30 seconds of rest in between
Aim to get the right form and warm up the finger and wrist muscles
Please take a look at the next video where we will progressively increase the difficulty

pinchtrainingpart2.mp4

CONTROL AND STRENGTHENing

This round, add a book on each grip to increase the weight and size of your pinch
Continue to focus on getting a good pinch-grip each time
The goal is not to transfer the books fast but being in control and improving your pinch grip progressively (same 2-3 seconds lift)
Types of grip we focus on
- Wide, Narrow, Normal
After doing 1 repetition on each hand, you completed a set
Do this exercise for 4-5 sets with 30 seconds of rest in between
You may progressively increase the weight of the books or size of the grip but it is not effective if you're unable to lift up for at least 2 seconds. Tone down the weight and grip size if that happens.

pinchflip.mp4

hand-eye coordination

Part 1

Start with a light and easy grip book
Focus on the timing of the flip and catch it as it is falling.
Pinch it in a downwards force while making sure your fingers and thumb generate pressure at the same time
Progressively get heavier book(s) or different grips. Some might find wider grips easier than narrow ones, vice versa. Practice around and be versatile.
Do this exercise for 4-5 sets with 30 seconds of rest in between
Hand-eye coordination is one of the most important skills a climber should work on to be a good climber! ;)

throwandcatchpinch.mp4

hand-eye coordination

Part 2

Same focus as the previous exercise
Catch with other hand
Progressively make it harder with heavier and/or different grips
Do this exercise for 4-5 sets with 30 seconds of rest in between

XiaoYing_Video_1587125428412.mp4

PINCH-Y CHALLENGE!

Try to flip the heaviest book you can find! Here, I am using Word Power Dictionary.

Important:

Please try this exercise while you're kneeling down and preferably on your bed where it will create a soft landing if the book were to slip from your hands and fall. We do not want it to land on your feet or break anything else it falls on.
Only try this challenge after trying and practicing all the exercises above consistently. This challenge needs good grip strength, coordination and strong wrist muscles.
You may video yourself doing this challenge and send it to my email. I'll collate the videos and share it with the climbing community and also the Dover Sports Community!
ALLEZ & HAVE FUN! :)

Please feel free to contact Akmal at akmaluwc@gapps.uwcsea.edu.sg

Stay safe and take care!

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