The patch pocket is the basic pocket. It can be a contrasting color or just top stitched to show it has some style. The patch pocket is seen on shirts and many other fashion styles. It is literally what its name suggests – a patch of fabric sewn to make a pocket. Using different techniques the basic patch pocket can become more decorative and appealing.

A slot pocket is much like a largely tailored buttonhole. This pocket detailing depends upon quality workmanship to achieve the desired look. They are also referred to as buttonhole pockets, besom pockets, slit pockets, bound pockets, or double welt pockets.

Standards: A well-constructed slot pocket:

• welts are of equal width and meet in the center.

• welts end with square corners and no visible raveling at corners.

• welts are pressed flat against the jacket and stay closed.

Now that we have all of our pieces cut out and interfacing applied, we can begin to assemble the pockets! On the top third of the wrong side of the welt rectangle, mark the finished width and height of your welt (you can choose this based on your preference or use this measurements which were 5/8" tall X 5 1/2" wide).

Draw markings on your interfaced trouser pieces as well - make sure you mark both the right and wrong sides of your pants. You can use chalk or you can use thread basting to create your markings. (Make sure to stitch thoroughly at the corners so that they are very accurate)

Line up your trousers with your welt piece, right sides together. Your markings will come in handy here to make sure everything is lined up precisely.

Using a very short stitch length for added strength and precision, stitch along the long edges of the welt rectangle. Stop and back stitch precisely at each corner.

Now press the loose sections of the welt to help things fold crisply later on

Using sharp little scissors, cut along the center of the welt and stop 1/2" from either end. Cut on a diagonal towards each corner, clipping as close to the stitching as you dare! The closer you get, the crisper your welt corners will appear later on...but be warned - if you snip beyond your stitching your welt will have little holes in each corner!

Turn the welt to the wrong side of the garment so that you are left with a rectangular window on the right side:

Now is a great time to remove all the basting thread!

To reduce bulk later, flip up the bottom of the welt and press the seam allowances that are hidden underneath open.

And now press the sides and the top of the welt crisply flat. If you'd like, you can press the seam slightly towards the wrong side of the garment so that it isn't visible from the right side.

Turn the garment on the right side to press all four corners carefully

From the wrong side of the garment, create an accordion fold with the welt rectangle so that the folded edge meets the top of the welt window. Press the folded edge crisply.

From the right side of the garment, your welt will look almost finished!

To keep the welt in place, uncover the sides of the welt by folding over the trousers. You will see a little triangle of fabric and your accordion fold. Stitch as close to the base of the triangle as possible through all layers except the trousers themselves.

To add the pocket bag, first, place the shallow pocket lining with the right side down on top of the welt. Line up the top pocket edge with the bottom of the welt. Stitch using a 5/8" seam allowance.

To prepare the deep pocket lining, first press under the long edges of the pocket facing 5/8":

Topstitch the pocket facing to the deep pocket lining. You will want to place this facing so that it lies directly over the welt pocket when the bottom of the deep pocket lining is lined up with the bottom of the shallow pocket lining.

This is how your pocket will look at this point:

Finish the edges of the pocket with a serger or a zig-zag stitch.

To prevent your welts from sagging in the middle, fold down the top of the trousers to expose the little seam allowance between the trousers and the pocket pieces. Stitch through the seam allowance and all the pocket layers.

Sewing Patch Pocket

Sewing double welt Pocket/ slot pocket

Sewing Welt Pocket