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The Voyage of the HMS Beagle: homeward bound via the Pacific and Indian Oceans

POSTED MAY 24, 2024

The HMS Beagle left the Galápagos Islands in October and arrived at Tahiti in November 1835. Then the ship sailed onward to reach New Zealand in late December. In January 1836 the Beagle arrived in Australia, where Darwin was favorably impressed by the young city of Sydney. After exploring coral reefs, the Beagle continued on its way, reaching the Cape of Good Hope at the southern tip of Africa at the end of May 1836.

Of these four stops, only his stay in Australia figured prominently in the development of the theory of evolution.  Darwin took few plant or animal specimens from Tahiti, preferring simply to luxuriate in its legendary tropical beauty. During his stay in New Zealand he collected insects, shells, fish, rocks and a gecko, recording his observations in his journal. In Cape Town he visited the great astronomer and natural philosopher*, John Herschel, but mentions little else of a scientific nature.

His experiences in Australia, on the other hand, significantly influenced his scientific thinking.

As he had during all through the voyage, Darwin collected or observed numerous species of animals and insects, many of which had never been seen before.**  But it was his 11-day adventure in the Blue Mountains that "kick-started" his thinking on evolution. Two observations in particular stand out:

Tahiti (November 1835)

The voyage to Tahiti, the Polynesian island fabled for the beauty of its people and of their home, was the longest of the Beagle's ocean passages.  After the 3200 miles of sea, the crew was eager to see the island that had become so prominent in the European imagination as a "natural paradise" since first visited in June 1767 by the HMS Dolphin commanded by Samuel Wallis.*** 

Perhaps the most renowned visitor to the island was the French painter Paul Gaugin, who, at the end of the 19th century left his home in Paris to escape, as he put it, “everything that is artificial and conventional”. He was headed for French Polynesia and would settle in Tahiti. This mysteriously alluring island, whose unconventional beauty extended to both its people and its landscapes, was evoked in works such as Fatata te Miti and Mahana No Atua, paintings which decades later would sell for almost $40 million apiece.

How Cézanne, Van Gogh, and Gauguin inspired 20th century art (Part III: From Gauguin to Primitivism and Symbolism)

Today the island continues to attract celebrities and visitors from around the world.  Why go?

"Miles of shoreline, dozens of resorts, French cuisine to die for – Tahiti has all the makings of a honeymoon destination...Leafy forests sit beside sandy shores, while French crêpes are served alongside Tahitian poisson cru (raw fish). If there ever was a place that embodies the beautiful duality of the French Polynesian archipelago, it's Tahiti. Here, the quirky, often chaotic atmosphere of the island's capital, Papeete, rubs elbows with uncorrupted natural beauty." (US News Travel)

Lonely Planet's list of must-see attractions includes Marché de Pape’ete ("If you see one site in town, make it this market, which fills an entire city block."). the samll village of Papenoo, and Pointe Vénus, a popular beach stop on the site where Captain Cook recorded the transit of Venus across the face of the Sun in 1869. [link right]

New Zealand (December 1835)

(Originally posted November 8, 2020)

Before its annexation by Great Britain in 1840, New Zealand was the largest country in Polynesia, a triangular area in the east-central Pacific Ocean comprising over 10,000 islands and extending from the Hawaiian Islands in the north to New Zealand in the southwest and Easter Island in the southeast.  An independent nation since 1947, New Zealand has two main islands and several smaller ones.  Its isolated location (1000 miles from Australia, its nearest neighbor) has given rise to unique vegetation and animal life - including the long-beaked flightless bird, the kiwi, the oft-used nickname for New Zealanders.

The Bay of Islands on North Island contains 144 islands, many secluded bays and some great sandy beaches. This beautiful bay has an abundance of marine life including whales, penguins, dolphins and marlin. (Touropia)

Among the most accessible glaciers in the world, Franz Josef and Fox glaciers on South Island flow from some of the highest peaks in the Southern Alps to near sea level, where the gentle coastal climate makes it easy for visitors to explore them on foot. (Planetware)

Touropia (link below left) calls New Zealand an "otherworldly, photogenic and friendly country" which is "home to dense native forests, mountains, beaches, glaciers, thermal regions and fiords that have been well-preserved by the environmentally-conscious government and culture. New Zealand is a place where traditional Maori culture mixes with modernity in cosmopolitan cities, charming villages and vast expanses of untouched wilderness."

Planetware (link below right) offers its own top tourist sites list and notes that "New Zealand is a breeze to travel around. Self-drive vacations are popular, and the country's diverse accommodations range from quaint bed-and-breakfast inns and eco-lodges to some of the world's most luxurious hotels."

Sydney, Australia (January 1836)

In 1788, the First Fleet of convicts, led by Arthur Phillip, founded Sydney as a British penal colony, the first European settlement in Australia.  When Darwin arrived less than 50 years later. the young city was in the middle of an economic boom. There was extensive property speculation — ‘the number of large houses just finished & others building is truly surprising: & with this, every one complains of the high rents & difficulty in procuring a house’. Interest rates were high, and people were making vast fortunes.  Darwin wrote in his diary,  "In the streets Gigs, Phaetons & Carriages**** with livery Servants are driving about …The whole population poor & rich are bent on acquiring wealth."  The boom would end in the depression of the 1840s with bank crashes, the slump in wool prices and high unemployment.

Today, the largest city in Australia (pop. 5.45 million) as well as its financial center retains its reputation as an expensive but desirable place to live.  It is the 12th most expensive city in the world in terms of property prices and ranked 10th globally for livability. Sydney Harbor, framed by the iconic Sydney Opera House and the Sydney Harbor Bridge is one of the most beautiful in the world. [below left]  Planetware [link below right] lists many other attractions including "The Rocks", the Queen Victoria Building, the Royal Botanic Garden, the Bangaroo Reserve, and, of course, the one hundred or so beaches.

Australia's tourism website has a Guide to the Blue Mountains, where Darwin did much of his work...just a ninety-minute drive from Sydney. 

Cape Town, South Africa (May 1836)

Little is known of the history of the region's first residents, since there is no written history from the area before it was first mentioned by Portuguese explorer Bartolomeu Dias. Dias, the first European to reach the area, arrived in 1488 and named it "Cape of Storms" (Cabo das Tormentas). It was later renamed by John II of Portugal as "Cape of Good Hope" (Cabo da Boa Esperança) because of the great optimism engendered by the opening of a sea route to the Indian subcontinent and East Indies.  

Located on the shore of Table Bay, Cape Town was established in 1652 with the arrival of Dutch settlers who were sent to start a halfway station for passing ships, Cape Town is known as Africa's "Mother City." 

Cape Town's tourism site introduces us to the "Big Six" attractions: Table Mountain, Cape Point, the Victoria & Albert Waterfront, Robben Island, Groot Constantia, and Kirstenbosch Botanical Garden in the link below left and Conde Nast gives us a "comprehensive travel guide and collection of tips" in the link below right.

This "stop" in Cape Town concludes our time with the HMS BeagleFrom Cape Town, the Beagle would return to England via several islands in the Atlantic and a stop again at Salvador on the eastern tip of the Brazilian coastline.  Docking at Falmouth on October 2, 1836, Darwin would collect his notes and journals and continue development of his theory of the evolution of species by natural selection.  Twenty-three years later, in 1859, one of the most-paradigm-shifting works in the history of science,  On the Origin of Species, was published.

Notes

*From the time of Aristotle until the 19th century, natural philosophy was the common term for the study of nature, a broad term that included botany, zoology, anthropology, and chemistry as well as what we now call physics. 

**In and around Sydney, Darwin and his scientific assistant Syms Covington collected at least 110 species of animals, including a mouse not previously described, a crab, a snake, frogs, lizards, shells (including an oyster, a mudwhelk, air breathers, a sand snail, and a trochid or top shell) and 97 insects, 42 of which had not previously been described.

***Darwin was greatly impressed with splendor of the island.  He was less impressed with its inhabitants.  Still considering becoming a clergyman, he was critical of the Polynesian people living there and more impressed by the Protestant missionaries working there

****Gigs and phaetons were the convertibles of the horse carriage era. Gigs were two-wheeled; phaetons, four-wheeled.

Sources/Learn More: Charles Darwin and His Voyage Aboard H.M.S. Beagle (thoughtco.com) , The Naturalist’s Gaze: What Charles Darwin Saw in Tahiti ‹ Literary Hub (lithub.com), Blacktomato.com, jonesaroundtheworld.com , nationalgeographic.com, Charles Darwin’s evolutionary revelation in Australia (theconversation.com) , New Zealand history online. Wikipedia, New South Wales State Library, When Charles Darwin visited the Cape of Good Hope - False Bay Echo Charles Darwin Study Guide: The Voyage of the Beagle Part III | SparkNotes 

The Voyage of the HMS Beagle: from Tierra del Fuego to Galápagos

POSTED MAY 17, 2024

From June, 1834 until September, 1835, the HMS Beagle made its way north along South America's Pacific coast, before arriving at its most famous stop, the Galápagos Islands, on September 17, 1835.  

The American Museum of Natural History touches on some highlights of  Darwin's journey up the coast in the sidebar.

Chile, June 1834 to August 1835

The Beagle sailed along the coast of Chile for almost 15 months.  In two notebooks* on Chile - the Valparaiso Notebook and the Santiago Notebook - we see Charles Darwin gradually beginning to question the accepted theories of his time such as the fixity of species (i.e., species remain unchanged throughout history) and the "biblical" theory that the world was just 6000 years old.  

While the Valparaiso Notebook is more of a field hand book, the Santiago Notebook is more theoretical.  The Santiago Notebook contains passages related to Darwin’s brilliant theory for the origin of coral reefs, which played an important role in the development of his theory of evolution by natural selection.

"From star-filled skies to otherworldly caves, 4000 kilometers of coastline, world-class wineries, a lake district, the world's driest desert and an amazing array of natural wonders."

The cities of Valparaiso and Santiago have, in recent years, become somewhat dangerous to visit.  Travel sites are advising caution if you do plan to go there.  As always, daytime is safer than nighttime and crowded, touristy streets are safer than deserted streets.

The 15 Coolest Things to Do in Valparaíso, Chile - Worldly Adventurer 

A Local’s Guide to Santiago, Chile

American Museum of Natural History

"Strait of Magellan, June 1834: Two and a half years into the voyage, the Beagle at last reaches the Pacific Ocean.

"Chilo, January 1835: Darwin witnesses the eruption of Mount Osorno.

"Valdivia, February 1835: Darwin experiences an earthquake in Valdivia and later visits the leveled town of Concepción. He notes that the coast rose several feet.

"Valparaiso, March 1835: Darwin climbs the Andes and finds petrified trees similar to those at sea level. He becomes certain the mountains rose "slowly and by little starts," in a long series of earthquakes.

"Galápagos, September-October 1835: Darwin finds plants, birds and tortoises with many variations unique to the Galápagos Islands, but that seem mysteriously related to mainland species."

Lima, Peru  August 1835

In August 1835, during the voyage north, Charles Darwin visited Lima, Peru, where he docked and caught up on letters home. While there, he likely observed the local environment and culture, but specific details about what he learned in Peru are not extensively documented. 

Lima, the capital of Peru, lies on the country's arid Pacific coast. Founded in 1535, the city has a well-preserved colonial center with the Plaza de Armas and a 16th-century cathedral at the heart of old Lima Centro.  The Museo Larco has a large collection of pre-Columbian art and the Museo de la Nación traces the history of Peru’s ancient civilizations. 

Lonely Planet tells us that there’s no bad time of year to visit Lima.  "There's usually something on the cultural calendar each month and the City of Kings serves up world-renowned restaurants, top museums, and direct access to the Pacific Ocean all year round...Peru’s capital is at its best and most beautiful in the summer (December-March)...the high season/winter (June to August) is the driest time to hike to the world heritage site of Machu Picchu as well as the best time for festivals and museums while the shoulder seasons (September–November and April-May) are best for sunshine and budget travel.  Among Lima's must-see attractions [link below]:

Museo Larco: "In an 18th-century viceroy’s mansion, this museum offers one of the largest, best-presented displays of ceramics in Lima. Founded by pre-Columbian collector Rafael Larco Hoyle in 1926, the collection includes more than 50,000 pots, with ceramic works from the Cupisnique, Chimú, Chancay, Nazca and Inca cultures. Highlights include the sublime Moche portrait vessels, presented in simple, dramatically lit cases, and a Wari weaving in one of the rear galleries that contains 398 threads to the linear inch – a record."

Iglesia de Santo Domingo: Originally completed in the sixteenth century "this impressive pink church is one of Lima’s most historic religious sites...It is most renowned as the final resting place for three important Peruvian saints: San Juan Macías, Santa Rosa de Lima and San Martín de Porres (the continent’s first black saint). The convent – a sprawling courtyard-studded complex lined with baroque paintings and clad in vintage Spanish tiles – contains the saints’ tombs."  

El Circuito Mágico del Agua: This series of illuminated fountains is "so over the top it can’t help but induce stupefaction among even the most hardened travel cynic. A dozen different fountains are capped, at the end, by a laser light show at the 120m-long Fuente de la Fantasía (Fantasy Fountain). The whole display is set to a medley of tunes comprising everything from Peruvian waltzes to ABBA."

Galápagos Islands, Ecuador  September 17 - October 20, 1835

From Peru, the Beagle traveled to the Galápagos Islands, about 6o0 miles to the west of Ecuador.  During his expedition there, Charles Darwin made several key findings that significantly influenced his theory of evolution.  Among them were observations on extraordinary and unique animal and plant species, a graded series of beaks sizes and shapes among the islands' finches, and how similar creatures on different islands adapted to their specific environments. [sidebar]

In 1859, twenty-four years after his visit there, Darwin would publish The Origin of Species and introduce the world to the Galápagos Islands, the archipelago that had played such a crucial role in his theory of evolution.  

In 1959, the Galápagos became Ecuador's first national park, and in 1978, it was named a UNESCO World Heritage site. Today, more than 275,000 people visit the Galápagos every year to see those incredible animals and landscapes for themselves. 

Needless to say, the main stars of the Galápagos are the islands' flora and fauna and the surrounding marine life, which thrived for thousands of years by evolving into unique species you won't find anywhere else in the world, such as the charismatic giant tortoises and blue-footed boobies.  This is also one of the world's top scuba diving destinations, and other activities for the adventurous - trekking, snorkeling, and kayaking are readily at hand.  Travel + Leisure's introduction to the Galápagos is linked below. 

Our next post will take us across the Pacific and Indian Oceans on the return leg of the voyage of the Beagle.

Darwin in the Galápagos

Unique and Extraordinary Species: The Galapagos Islands are home to extraordinary and unique animal species, including rays, sharks, sea lions, fur seals, iguanas, and giant tortoises. The plant life is equally fascinating, with trees evolving from daisies and cacti adapting to the region’s climate.

Finches: Darwin observed a graded series of beak sizes and shapes among the Galapagos finches. He predicted that these species were modified from one original mainland species. This observation led him to formulate the concept of natural selection, driven by traits, competition, and variation.

Adaptation: Darwin noticed that similar creatures inhabited different islands but were perfectly adapted to their specific environments. This observation sparked his curiosity about the origin of these island inhabitants.

Note: *Throughout the five-year voyage of the HMS Beagle, Darwin recorded his thoughts and findings in a total of 15 notebooks record his 'on the spot' geological and general observations. Unlike the many other documents that he also created, the field notebooks are not confined to any one subject or genre.

Sources: Charles Darwin and his trip to the Galapagos Islands | Voyagers Travel , The Galapagos Finches and Natural Selection - Biology LibreTexts , Cambridge University Press, Travel and Leisure,  Darwin Online-1Darwin Online - 2,  University of Manchester

The Voyage of the HMS Beagle: from Rio to Tierra del Fuego

POSTED APRIL 16, 2024

Leaving San Salvador, the HMS Beagle made its way down the east coast of South America, stopping for two months in Rio de Janeiro before sailing to Montevideo.  From Montevideo, the Beagle made several stops up and down the coast, first landing at the southern tip of South America in December 1832.  The Beagle would remain on the continent's east coast for two years before rounding Cape Horn and traveling north in June, 1834.  

During this time Charles Darwin made several journeys inland.  Darwin’s periodic trips to the cliffs at Bahía Blanca and farther south at Port St. Julian yielded huge bones of extinct mammals. Darwin brought "skulls, femurs, and armor plates back to the ship—relics, he assumed, of rhinoceroses, mastodons, cow-sized armadillos, and giant ground sloths (such as Megatherium).  He unearthed a horse-sized mammal with a long face like an anteater’s, and he returned from a 340-mile ride to Mercedes near the Uruguay River with a skull 28 inches long strapped to his horse. Fossil extraction became a romance for Darwin. It pushed him into thinking of the primeval world and what had caused those giant beasts to die out." (Britannica)

In this travel post, we'll take a look at Rio de Janeiro, Montevideo, and Tierra del Fuego.

Rio de Janeiro, Brazil April 3, 1832

The ship docked in Rio de Janeiro on April 3 and the expedition team spent two months exploring the rainforests, which Darwin noted, left his mind in "a chaos of delight." Spending two months there studying 'gaily coloured' flatworms and spiders.  But it was here that he also encountered the parasitic ichneumon wasp, which stored caterpillars to be eaten alive by its grubs.  It was perhaps his first indication that something other than a totally beneficent design was driving Nature.  An abolitionist, Darwin was again revolted by the local slavery.   Finding some solace in the beauties of the rain forest, he would not live to see the end of slavery in Brazil.  In 1888, six years after Darwin's death, Brazil became the last country in the Western Hemisphere to abolish slavery.

Rio de Janeiro is famous for its Mardi Gras and its samba, for its beaches and for its statue of Christ the Redeemer, arms open wide to welcome visitors.  The city itself is a World Heritage site.  The listing calls the site "an exceptional urban setting encompassing the key natural elements that have shaped and inspired the development of the city: from the highest points of the Tijuca National Park’s mountains down to the sea. They also include the Botanical Gardens, established in 1808, Corcovado Mountain with its celebrated statue of Christ [below center], and the hills around Guanabara Bay, including the extensive designed landscapes along Copacabana Bay which have contributed to the outdoor living culture of this spectacular city. Rio de Janeiro is also recognized for the artistic inspiration it has provided to musicians, landscapers and urbanists."

The Tijuca [below left] is all that's left of the Atlantic rainforest that once surrounded Rio de Janeiro in the days of the HMS Beagle. This 39-sq-km biodiverse tropical-jungle preserve is an exuberant green, with beautiful trees, creeks and waterfalls, mountainous terrain and high peaks. Tijuca contains 1619 plant species and is home to a huge diversity of birds, insects, fish, amphibians, reptiles, and medium-sized mammals.

The most famous statue in Latin America, Christ the Redeemer is an Art Deco statue of Jesus Christ in Rio de Janeiro, Brazil, created by French-Polish sculptor Paul Landowski and built by Brazilian engineer Heitor da Silva Costa, in collaboration with French engineer Albert Caquot. Romanian sculptor Gheorghe Leonida sculpted the face.  Among the various meanings of Rio's massive statue, and the one I personally like best, is that of Christ welcoming all with open arms.  Although the project was begun in the 1920s, the inspiration for the having a statue on Corcovado Mountain overlooking the bay came after Princess Isabel, acting as regent while her father was traveling abroad, ended slavery in Brazil.   For her role in ending slavery in Brazil, a proposal was put forward to have a statue honoring her overlook the bay.  Fortunately for all of us, her humility would not allow her to accept this.  Princess Isabel asked instead that an image of the Sacred Heart of Jesus be built as a visible declaration that he is the true Redeemer of mankind.  [below center]

Barra da Tijuca, also known as Barra, is one of the fastest-growing neighborhoods in Rio de Janeiro and has quickly become a popular destination for locals and tourists alike. The area is known for its stunning beaches, outdoor activities, and world-class dining.  Top of the list for places to visit in Barra is the Barra da Tijuca Beach, one of the largest and most beautiful beaches in the city, giving beachgoers and outdoor enthusiasts more than 10 miles of soft white sand and crystal-clear waters.  [below right]

Montevideo, Uruguay   July 26, 1832


In July 1832, when the Beagle reached Montevideo, Uruguay, the city was in a state of rebellion.  Darwin witnessed the turmoil and even joined armed sailors in an effort to retake a rebel-held fort. This experience exposed him to the complexities of political unrest and conflict in the region.


Today, Montevideo, the capital of Uruguay, is a charming metropolitan oasis where the lifestyle of the countryside influences a not-so-fast pace of city living.  Once a fortified citadel, the Ciudad Vieja (old city) is today surrounded by traces of the city walls, first erected in 1741. Beyond this historic core, visitors can stroll the longest continuous sidewalk in the world, relax on sandy beaches, visit countless museums or sway to carnaval rhythms year-round. 

The Museo de la Memoria, which opened in 2007, is Montevideo's most important museum and offers insights and context on the country’s 12-year civic-military dictatorship. 


The tradition of carnaval was brought to Uruguay by enslaved Africans. Their descendants invented candombe drums, a large percussion instrument that’s worn on the body and played as the performer walks in the street.  Candombe is the heartbeat of Uruguay, and has been designated a UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity since 2009. [Lonely Planet - sidebar]


With a population of just three and a half million, Uruguay is regarded as one of the greatest footballing nations of all time. Uruguay has won the World Cup twice and the Copa América 15 times, tied with Argentina for the most titles in the history of this tournament.

Tierra del Fuego, Argentina and Chile   December 1832

The Beagle came to Tierra del Fuego with two goals - to establish a Christian mission there, which it did so on January 23, 1833, and to chart the complex coastline, a task memorialized with the naming of the 150 mile long Beagle Channel.  If his Montevideo experience opened Darwin's eyes to the political complexities of South America, his travels through Argentina had exposed him to the genocide occurring on the frontier as gauchos told him of the extermination of the Pampas "Indians".   Arriving in the archipelago of Tierra del Fuego, the twenty-three year old Darwin was disturbed still further by his encounters with the "untamed" men of Tierra del Fuego.  

Tierra del Fuego retains much of its wildness.  At the southernmost extreme of the Americas, this windswept archipelago is by turns "beautiful, ancient and strange". Travelers who come for an "ends-of-the-earth" experience discover a destination that’s far more complex. Intrigue remains in a past storied with shipwrecks, indigenous peoples and failed missions. In Tierra del Fuego, nature is writ bold and reckless, from the scoured plains, rusted peat bogs and mossy lenga forests to the snowy ranges above the Beagle Channel." (Lonely Planet).  

Among the must see attractions in Tierra del Fuego are the National Park and the Museo Acatushún emphasizing the region’s marine mammals with an inventory of thousands of mammal and bird specimens.  For those looking for a more challenging visit, Lonely Planet has prepared an itinerary for "a perfect week in Tierra del Fuego." [sidebar]


The Voyage of the HMS Beagle

POSTED MARCH 20, 2024

In 1831 on the day after Boxing Day, twenty-two-year-old Charles Darwin departed Plymouth, England, on the HMS Beagle as the ship's naturalist.  For five years, Darwin sailed around the world cataloging and studying new animal and plant species.  When he returned to England, he used this knowledge to develop one of the most paradigm-shifting scientific theories that the world has ever known. In his ground-breaking On the Origin of Species, published in 1859, he presented a comprehensive account of how natural selection drives the evolution of species and changed forever our understanding of life on earth. 

This post will take a look at two of the first places that the Beagle made landfall on its outbound voyage.

Cape Verde, Jan 16, 1832

Cape Verde is an island country of West Africa in the central Atlantic Ocean, an archipelago consisting of ten volcanic islands with a combined land area smaller than that of Delaware.  The Portuguese colonization of the Cape Verde (Cabo Verde) Islands began in 1462. Initially envisaged as a base to give mariners direct access to West African trade, the islands soon became a major hub of the Atlantic slave trade.  The Beagle landed there in January 1832, twelve years after the Liberal Revolution, which had led to the independence of the largest Portuguese colony, Brazil.  It would be another 143 years, though, before Cape Verde became independent.

Today, Cape Verde is a popular tourist destination, known for its unique culture, dry tropical climate, golden white sand beaches, and warm transparent waters.  

Linked left to right below, you can find more on Cabo Verde's churches, monuments, urban art, handicrafts and traditions; its beaches, where you can swim and sunbathe in year-round near- perfect beach weatherdo some whale watching or surfing, and even see a miracle of nature - sea turtles lay their eggs; its breathtaking volcanic landscapes and adventurous hiking trails.


In Cabo Verde, the original Portuguese colonial culture and African traditions come together in symbiosis and reveal themselves in a rich legacy of literature, music and art.  Cultural life on the Islands is vibrant and the mix of colors, flavors and sounds that flows in the air is contagious.

Cape Verde has been blessed by nature with an irresistible and extensive menu of beaches.   Under the influence of Africa's coastlines, these Atlantic islands present a constant breeze thanks to trade winds.  Temperatures generally range from 22°C to 28°C, and the sea temperature never drops below 22°C .

Cape Verde has a unique natural beauty with the scenery providing a stage for exceptional experiences.  Three of the islands have volcanoes, and the entire archipelago is made up of stories and memories of fire and lava. Its ten islands are full of trails that delight hiking enthusiasts and provide a taste of the essence of Cape Verde. 

Salvador, Brazil Feb 28, 1832

In late February, the Beagle reached the eastern coast of South America, landing at Salvador.  The first capital of Brazil from 1549 to 1763, Salvador de Bahia witnessed the blending of European, African and Amerindian cultures. It was also, from 1558, the first slave market in the New World, with slaves arriving to work on the sugar plantations.  The slavery there deeply disturbed Charles Darwin, an Englishman with abolitionist beliefs. During his visit to Salvador, Charles Darwin encountered a lush and vibrant rainforest that left his mind in “a chaos of delight.” The natural beauty and biodiversity of the rainforest captivated him. In addition to the rainforest, Darwin made other significant observations during his travels in Brazil - for example, insects with adaptations that allowed them to blend into their forest surroundings through camouflage.

Salvador was designated a UNESCO World Heritage site in 1985 (below right) for its Renaissance urban structure and preserved buildings, its historical significance as a colonial city during the Age of Exploration, and as "one of the major points of convergence of European, African and American Indian cultures of the 16th to 18th centuries." 

Today Salvador is the pulsating heart of the country’s Afro-Brazilian community.  Lonely Planet declares that "there’s no other place in the western hemisphere where the culture of those brought as enslaved people from Africa has been preserved as it has been in Salvador – from music and religion to food, dance and martial-arts traditions."  Top sites include the 18th century church, Igreja NS do Bonfim; Pelourinho, the UNESCO-declared world heritage site of colonial buildings; the nautical museum, and the Afro-Brasiliero Museum.


TBC: Our journey with the HMS Beagle will continue in future posts.

Best places to visit this Spring

POSTED MARCH 1,  2024

It's almost Spring.  Warmth is returning, birds are preparing for their flight north, and flowers are getting ready to bloom.  The sky too has some treats in store.  Besides the Spring Equinox, there is a total solar eclipse across Mexico, the US, and Canada.  Here are a few of the most beautiful, interesting and enjoyable places to visit this Spring.

The Maldives

The Maldives offer "picture-perfect private villas suspended over striking blue waters, alabaster white sand beaches and spectacular sunsets dipping into the horizon. The scenic beauty of the Maldives is something to behold, something you can't quite understand until you're there in person."  [1] 

There's another reason to visit soon: as an archipelago of low-lying islands and atolls in the Indian Ocean, the Maldives is severely threatened by sea level rise. By 2050, 80% of the country could become uninhabitable due to global warming.

The National Cherry Blossom Festival Washington DC

"Full bloom of the cherry blossom trees is a sight to behold, and it's typically reached within a week after the first buds open. Symbolic of the fleeting nature of life, their season is short-lived and the blossoms stick around for just a short time longer before their delicate petals fall to the ground, covering in a blanket of pink and white." [2] 

The National Cherry Blossom Festival (March 20 – April 14) is a citywide celebration that commemorates the 1912 gift of 3,000 cherry blossom trees to Washington, DC by the mayor of Tokyo. The Festival features a range of spectacular events and activities, as well as a chance to see the starring attraction during peak bloom. [3]  Peak bloom for 2024 is expected to be March 23-26.  (You can check the Festival's Bloom Watch webpage for updates.)

New York City also offers opportunities to see these beautiful blossoms.  Central Park offers a cherry blossom display with Yoshino cherry trees (and Magnolia) trees blooming in early to mid-April and Kwanzan cherry trees in early May, depending on the weather. [2]  Brooklyn Botanic Garden has a spectacular display.  You can check its Blossom Tracker and enjoy a virtual tour of their Japanese Garden in full bloom here.

View the April 8 solar eclipse on the "path of totality"

On April 8,  a total solar eclipse will be visible in the continental United States.  With the proper eye protection, you can catch a glimpse of the Sun’s outer atmosphere, or corona, visible only when the Sun’s disc is completely covered by the moon.  There are two total solar eclipses every three years, according to NASA, but the next visible one in the U.S. won't happen until August 2044. [4]  [5]

To witness this rare total solar eclipse, you will need to be within the 115-mile-wide path of totality. The path arches from Mexico to Texas to Maine. Unless you’re on that line—the path of totality—you’ll only see a partial eclipse. The difference between a total solar eclipse and a partial one is literally the difference between night and day.  The closer you are to the center of that path, the longer totality, the maximum point of the eclipse, will last.  The whole event will take about two and a half hours, but totality will only last about four minutes. [4]

For an overview of the eclipse, visit Exploratorium's webpage Guide to the 2024 Total Solar Eclipse.

You can find an interactive Google map here, an interactive map giving times of the total eclipse here, and tips for safe viewing here.

Amsterdam for the Tulips

Holland in the spring is a wonderland of colorful tulips.  And the best showcase in the country is Keukenhof Tulip Gardens near Amsterdam.  This year it's open from March 21 until May 12.  Every year, more than 7 million flower bulbs are planted by hand in the autumn to flower in spring. The 800 different varieties of tulips make for a "unique and unforgettable experience for everyone. The 2024 edition will be extra festive due to Keukenhof’s 75th anniversary...Besides its 80 acres of flowers, there are also spectacular flower shows, surprising inspirational gardens, unique artworks and wonderful events." [6] 

Madrid

Spring is the best time to visit Madrid if you're looking to experience Spain's capital while it's comfortably warm, before the extreme heat of summer.  Retiro Parque, Plaza Mayor,  the Prado, Reina Sofia and Thyssen- Bornemisza museums, the Mercado de San Miguel, and the Puerta del Sol will keep you busy for days.  "But if you listen carefully, you might hear the alluring strings of a Spanish guitar or the clicking of a flamenco dancer's castanet...Yes, Madrid is for travelers interested in famous paintings and stunning architecture, but it's also, and maybe more so, for those looking for passion turned into art, and a taste of life lived with color and intensity." [7]

Provence for the Lavender

Provence and lavender have practically become synonymous over the centuries.  Lavender is grown in many parts of the world but none of these can compete with Provence in terms of tradition or scale.  The main lavender fields of Provence are centered on the Luberon and Verdon plateau regions, with the flowering season being generally from mid June to mid July. [8] 

There's much to see besides lavender in Provence.  "From verdant rolling hills and quaint fishing ports to picturesque villages perched on rocky outcrops, each detail of the landscape seems designed to delight. It's no wonder the region charmed many famous painters, including Cézanne, Matisse, Chagall, and Picasso." [9] In addition to all this, Aix, Marseilles, Avignon and Arles all call Provence home.  You can find Planetware's "25 Top-Rated Attractions & Scenic Drives in Provence" here. 

You may also like: A colorful tour from Holland to Provence: tulips, lavender, and sunflowers 

Restoring Your Spirit in Australia: the Daintree Rainforest

POSTED JANUARY 17, 2024

For millennia, humans have revered and celebrated nature as a source of well-being. From traditional cultures to today's ecotherapy, we have recognized and enjoyed its power to restore our spirits. Japanese culture celebrates nature, and they have two beautiful words indicative of their appreciation: komorebi (the sunlight shining through the leaves of trees, creating a sort of dance between the light and the leaves) and shinrin-yoku ("forest-bathing", walking through the forest, soaking in all the green light).  

It's summer in the Land Down Under, and an escape to Australia from the winter weather battering the US is an inviting idea.  In addition to the Great Barrier Reef, the Outback, and its cosmopolitan cities, Australia also offers tranquil locations to restore our spirits.  One of these is the Daintree Rainforest, which seems to be the perfect place to engage in komorebi and shinrin-yoku .  

Located next to the Great Barrier Reef in northern Queensland, the 180 million year old Daintree Rainforest is the world’s oldest tropical rainforest.  Sir David Attenborough, who has seen his share of the natural world, called it “the most extraordinary place on Earth.”  Other visitors have described the experience as "grounding", a connection "to the First Persons people of Australia and imagining what Australia looked like before there was much there", and Australia's tourism site describes it thus: "The experiences hidden within the forest are ones designed to heal you – body and spirit. Learn how to live in harmony with nature from a Kuku Yalanji guide, a Traditional Custodian of the land."

Queensland's rainforests  are home to 20 Aboriginal tribes, 120 clans and eight language groups. Today more than 20,000 people hold an ongoing traditional link to the land and native title accounts for 90 per cent of the ground inside the World Heritage zone.

Some interesting facts about this extraordinary ecosystem:

The Daintree is home to an amazing 65% of all of Australia’s bat and butterfly species, 28% of frogs, 40% of birds, 34% of mammals and 65% of ferns in Australia.  There are over 12,000 types of insects thriving in the Daintree Rainforest, and well over 200 species of land snails.

The Daintree Rainforest has some of the world’s tallest tropical trees, including the impressive Bull Kauri, a species of conifer which can grow up to 50 meters tall and 2.7 meters in diameter.  There are also many other tall trees in the Daintree forest that tower above the canopy. These massive trees are called ’emergent trees’ and their height gives them an evolutionary advantage where they gain maximum sunlight and attract pollinators.

The Daintree Rainforest is a bioluminescence marvel. If you wander through this spectacular rainforest at night you may  spot the glow of bioluminescent moss, fungus and even glow worms.

With the abundance of incredible plants and wildlife of the Daintree Rainforest, it’s not surprising there are many species found here which are rare or endangered, including the giant Southern Cassowary, elusive Bennett’s Tree Kangaroo and the White Lipped Tree Frog, the world’s largest frog.  Some of the animals which call the Daintree region home can only be found here and nowhere else on Earth. These endemic species include the Boyd’s Forest Dragon, Spotted-Tailed Quoll and the bright blue colored Ulysses Butterfly.

When you tire of relaxing and restoring your spirit, there is much to do and see in and around Daintree. 


Sources: Tourism Australia - 1, Australia Tourism Australia - 2, Best Relaxing Holidays: Australia Recommends - Tourism Australia, Guide to the Daintree Rainforest, QLD - Tourism Australia, Big Think, AatKings, Heritage Lodge, Queensland's Parks. Queensland Tourism

The 2023 UNESCO World Heritage Sites

POSTED DECEMBER 21, 2023

In September, the United Nations' cultural body, UNESCO,  announced 27 new World Heritage sites.  To qualify, sites must “be of outstanding universal value” and meet one of 10 criteria, such as containing “superlative natural phenomena or areas of exceptional natural beauty” or exhibiting “an important interchange of human values, over a span of time or within a cultural area of the world”. 

We take a look at three of the new UNESCO sites in this post.  You can find the complete list here.

Volcanoes and Forests of Mount Pelée and the Pitons of Northern Martinique

The global significance of Mount Pelée and Pitons du Carbet is based on its representation of volcanic features, materials and processes. The 1902-1905 eruption is considered a key event for the history of volcanology causing a dramatic impact on St. Pierre town, resulting in a tragic loss of life, and a legacy that remains part of the culture of Martinique. The property is home to globally threatened species such as the Martinique Volcano Frog, the Lacépède’s Ground Snake, and the Martinique Oriole.

Like French Guiana, Martinique is a special collectivity of the French Republic. It is also an outermost region of the European Union. Among the other reasons to visit Martinique: stunning beaches, tropical rainforests, a storied history, a French-tinted cosmopolitan culture and a varied landscape unparalleled anywhere else in the Caribbean.

Koh Ker, Cambodia

The archaeological site of Koh Ker is a sacred urban ensemble of numerous temples and sanctuaries including sculptures, inscriptions, wall paintings, and archaeological remains. Constructed over a twenty-three-year period, it was one of two rival Khmer Empire capitals – the other being Angkor – and was the sole capital from 928 to 944 CE. Established by King Jayavarman IV, his sacred city was believed to be laid out on the basis of ancient Indian religious concepts of the universe. 

Cambodia was ravaged by war in the 1960s and 70s, but has since recovered.  Cambodia is packed with some of Southeast Asia's best experiences, from temples to beaches and wonderful wildlife, and Lonely Planet lays out the best places to visit in Cambodia including Kampot and Kep, Siem Reap, the temples of Angkor, and the capital of Phnom Penh.


Prehistoric Sites of Talayotic Menorca

Located on the island of Menorca in the western Mediterranean Sea, these archaeological sites are situated in pastoral landscapes. A testimony to the occupation of the island by prehistoric communities, these sites display a diversity of prehistoric settlements and burial places. The materials, forms and locations of structures dating from the Bronze Age (1600 BCE) to the Late Iron Age (123 BCE) show the evolution of a “cyclopean” architecture built with very large blocks of stone. Astronomical orientations and visual interconnections between prehistoric structures indicate networks with possible cosmological meanings.

One of the Balearic Islands, Menorca lies 130 miles off the coast of Spain.  Long overlooked in favor of its glitzier neighbors Ibiza and Mallorca, Menorca’s laid-back appeal and sense of spaciousness, its rocky coves, white-sand beaches, beautiful rolling valleys are attracting travelers to the island. Vogue called it 2023's "buzziest Balearic island."  Besides the prehistoric monuments and archeological sites, Vogue suggests hiking the Camí de Cavalls, a 115-mile system of paths that rings the entire island, first constructed in the 13th century by King James I of Aragon; a day on a traditional Menorcan fishing vessel; a visit to the white-sand beaches of Cala Mitjaneta and Cala Turqueta; and a foray into the island's modern art scene on Kings Island.

Sources: UNESCO-1, UNESCO-2, UNESCO-3, The Independent, US News, Wikipedia, Lonely Planet, Vogue

Best places to visit in December and best ideas for winter fun when you can't travel

POSTED NOVEMBER 12, 2023

Whether you are traveling or staying home this winter (or, as Bob Dylan puts it in Chimes of Freedom, "condemned to drift or else be kept from drifting"), this post should give you a few ideas.  For the travelers, US News' monthly "best places to visit" for December 2023 offers 15 selections on 6 continents.  [link below left] For those "kept from drifting", the Enjoy Travel Life website offers 8 suggestions for having fun at home. [link below right]

For the travelers

The top 3 locations selected by the travel writers at US News are the US Virgin Islands, the French Alps, and Phuket Thailand. [link below left]

US Virgin Islands

US News: "palm-fringed festivities without the need for a passport...December is the start of the dry season in this Caribbean island chain, and average temperatures in the 70s and 80s are perfect for lounging on beautiful white sand beaches like Magens Bay or snorkeling in Virgin Islands National Park...you'll get a taste of the islands' vibrant culture during the Crucian Christmas Festival, which takes place on St. Croix during most of December...parades, music competitions, and art fairs held throughout this event."

The US Virgin Islands tourism website suggests itineraries for "Shop and Sun in St. Thomas", "Explore St. Croix History and Heritage" and "An Outdoor Adventure in St. John"

The French Alps

US News: "Snow-capped mountains, quaint villages and mouthwatering cuisine make the French Alps a classic winter getaway choice. Most ski resorts open by early December, so you can get an early start on the slopes for the season, or just take part in the lively après-ski experience in iconic destinations like Val d'Isère and Chamonix...many villages like the châteaux-studded Annecy amp up the charm with cozy Christmas markets throughout the month." 

The Annecy Noël des Alpes website presents information on the Christmas Markets, "Illuminations and Decorations", and Entertainment.  Google Translate provides an English translation.  The town looks like a spectacular place to spend Christmas.

Phuket

US News: "Although Phuket, Thailand, offers a consistently warm climate year-round, its cool, dry weather and calm water in December make this month a great time to visit. Plan on spending most of your time sunbathing, swimming, scuba diving and more at beaches like Nai Harn and Kata Noi."

The Amazing Thailand website offers many other activities once you tire of sunbathing, swimming, and scuba diving at the beaches.  And if you are going to travel all the way to Thailand to visit Phuket, you may want to check out these WITW posts on "The Land of Smiles"


For the winter stay-at-homes

What a great post from Jackie Gately at Enjoy Travel Life!  [link below right]  Ms. Gately offers 8 of the "best ideas for winter fun at home when you can’t travel."  A sampling:


The Côte d'Azur: Menton and Èze

POSTED OCTOBER 12, 2023

This third and final post on some of the perhaps-lesser-known locales on the French Riviera features the charming village of Èze and the laid back coastal town of Menton.  Near the Italian border, the towns lie on either side of Monaco and are less than 20 km apart. 


Menton


There's a good reason that Menton is often described as 'the pearl of France': because of its location between the mountains and the sea, Menton has the most hours of sunshine in all of France. It is also the only place in France where lemons grow on the trees.

The "Salt in Our Hair" bloggers [link left] call it "a perfect mixture of all the beautiful Mediterranean countries...the palm tree-lined streets of Spain, the Provencal architecture of France, and the cuisine of Italy.  Laid back Menton close to the Italian border "can sometimes feel more Italian than French, from the culture and buildings to the delicious food."  The town has incredible views, looking out over the blue of the Mediterranean Sea, with the snow-capped Alps behind.  

Besides it incredible views, lemon groves, pastel houses and beaches, Menton offers the traveler a most enjoyable stay.  Among the things to do and sites to see:


Èze


The medieval village of Èze was built over 400 m above sea level and provides the traveler with fairytale views of the French Riviera.  Twenty minutes from Nice, it has become one of the most visited places on La Côte d'Azur.

 "A walk through the narrow streets of Èze gives the impression of visiting a castle that has no end." The village was built as a fortified stronghold during the Medieval period, and the beautiful architecture reflects that. 

The shops and galleries in Èze offer beautiful, quality goods.  Art, clothing, and homewares are on display in shops and studios along the winding streets.

In addition to the magnificent views, beautiful architecture, and high-end shopping, Èze has a number of must-see sites, including:



Sources: French Riviera Travel, Julia's Album, All Things French

The Côte d'Azur: Villefranche-sur-Mer and Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat

POSTED SEPTEMBER 25, 2023

We continue our tour of some of the perhaps-lesser-known locales on the French Riviera with two picturesque villages located between Nice and Monaco, Villefranche-sur-Mer and Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat.  



Villefranche-sur-Mer

Set between turquoise seas and forested cliffs, Villefranche-sur-Mer’s colorful houses overlook one of the world’s most beautiful bays. Not unexpectedly, this stunning town has played host to dozens of films including Never Say Never Again with Sean Connery, The Jewel of the Nile with Michael Douglas,  and The Bucket List.  

Besides its twice-weekly market, bustling harbor and a sandy beach, the town has much to offer the traveler:

The old town is the heart of Villefranche-sur-Mer. Most buildings are from the 12th or 13th century and have been beautifully preserved. What’s more, all the houses are painted in rainbow colors with shutters, plants, and flowers to match. 

The 16th-century St. Pierre Chapel was used as a storage area by the local fishermen during the 19th century. Later, when it was renovated in the 1950s, the artist and film director  Jean Cocteau painted murals of the local fisherman, depicting their lives in Villefranche. 

The Citadel of Villefranche-sur-Mer is a 16th-century medieval fortress that sits on a hill high above the city. It’s got the best view in town, as it’s high enough to look out across the bay, the town, and the coastline of the Cote d’Azur. Come here for a breathtaking sunset or sunrise!  [link in sidebar]


Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat

With its ornate Belle Époque villas and magnificent lush gardens, Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat is one of the Riviera’s most picturesque spots. 

In addition to the great estates and the peaceful beaches, Saint Jean Cap Ferrat has numerous sites to interest travelers, among them:

History of Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat

The hamlet of Saint-Jean was part of the town of Villefranche-sur-Mer until 1904 when it became a commune in its own right.  Once favored by the European aristocracy as a winter home because of its mild climate, the peninsula is home to countless striking bits of architecture.

Around 1950, the resort became a spa town and was also visited in the summer, particularly by international celebrities.  Among the many artists who stayed in Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat were Matisse, Chagall, Picasso. However, it is Jean Cocteau who is most associated with the town. His frescoes decorated not only the walls of the Villa Santo Sospir, where he would visit regularly, but also the marriage chamber in the Town Hall.

The Côte d'Azur: Antibes and Juan-les-Pins

POSTED SEPTEMBER 10, 2023

The Côte d'Azur, aka the French Riviera, is the Mediterranean coastline in the southeast corner of France. There is no official boundary, but it is usually considered to extend from Cassis, just east of Marseille, to Menton, at the France–Italy border.  This coastline was one of the first modern resort areas. It began as a winter health resort for the British upper class at the end of the 18th century. With the arrival of the railway in the mid-19th century, it became the vacation spot of British, Russian, and other aristocrats.  In the first half of the 20th century, it was frequented by artists and writers, including Pablo Picasso, Henri Matisse, Francis Bacon, Edith Wharton, Somerset Maugham and Aldous Huxley, as well as wealthy Americans and Europeans. After World War II, it became a popular tourist destination, home to the world's most prestigious film festival, and a playground for the rich and famous.  

Cannes, Nice, St. Tropez, Monaco are famous and known around the world, but in this and succeeding posts we'll take a look at some of the lesser known towns on the Côte d'Azur.  

Today, we kick off the series with the neighboring seaside towns of Antibes and Juan-les-Pins.  Surrounded by gorgeous beaches in an unspoiled natural environment, Antibes is known for its old town enclosed by 16th-century ramparts, its beaches and marina, and the Musee Picasso. The forested Cap d’Antibes peninsula, dotted with grand villas, separates Antibes from Juan-les-Pins, a chic resort town with a vibrant nightlife and the Jazz à Juan music festival.  

By OpenStreetMap  at https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=101733580

Antibes Old Town

Called by some the cultural heart of the Côte d'Azur, Antibes' old town features a 12th century cathedral and ramparts dating to the 16th century as protection against maritime raids.  The ramparts offer a panoramic view of the Mediterranean Sea, the port of Antibes and the old town.  They are also the scene of several cultural events throughout the year, including concerts, art exhibitions and festivals.  

Old Antibes also rewards the leisurely traveler simply wandering through its alleys, discovering its workshops and enjoying a drink in a sun-soaked pavement caféThe Antibes Juan les Pins website has a walking tour itinerary.

Beaches

Sandy beaches are a top attraction for travelers to the area.  Antibes covers a very large area, made up of the old town, the entirety of the Cap d'Antibes peninsula and the summery resort of Juan-les-Pins.  There are almost 50 private and public beaches close by, and that doesn’t include the secluded coves of Cap d'Antibes with their spectacular views of Antibes and Juan-led-Pins.   Whether you prefer lovely sandy beaches, secluded rocky coves, or trendy beach clubs, you'll find it here. [link right]


Musée Picasso

A number of years back, my wife and I vacationed in the South of France.  One of our stops was Cap d'Antibes where we stayed several days at La Jabotte, a marvelous little ("boutique") hotel.  A highlight of our stay there was a visit to the Musée Picasso, where Picasso lived and worked for a period after World War II.  

In September 1946, Picasso was invited by the curator of the Château Grimaldi - Musée d'Antibes to stay and set up his studio in one of the rooms of the château.   Accompanied by his muse and partner, Françoise Gilot, Picasso painted some twenty works there, which now form part of the museum's collection.  The museum was renamed Musée Picasso in 1966 and also features works by Germaine Richier, Joan Miró, Bernard Pagès, Anne and Patrick Poirier and others. 

In the link right, Rick Steves gives a brief overview of Picasso's works at the museum.*  


Jazz à Juan

If you enjoy listening to music by the sea, head to Juan-les-Pins in July, when it hosts one of the world’s great jazz festivals, Jazz à Juan. An annual fête that has drawn stars like Charlie Mingus, Ray Charles, John Coltrane, Duke Ellington, Count Basie and Dizzy Gillespie over the course of its forty-three-year history, the program, according to organizers, focuses on “constantly renewed jazz,” whatever the form, including New Orleans, Gospel, Blues, or Electro-Jazz. Held in an open-air concert space a short distance from the beach, the festival runs for nearly two weeks, the 2023 edition from July 10 to July 21.  (Forbes)

For more on things to do in Antibes, see the link right.


Note:*This year marked the 50th anniversary of Picasso's death, and as part of the international celebration of the artist's life and worksMusée Picasso Antibes hosted an exhibition "Picasso 1969 – 1972. The end of the beginning."


Indonesia

POSTED JUNE 23, 2023

Stretching from the Indian Ocean to the Pacific, the Indonesian archipelago's 6000 inhabited islands are home to 280 million people, making Indonesia the fourth most populous country in the world.   Among its most interesting travel spots are Bali, the Gili Islands, Komodo National Park, Weh Island, and the capital city of Jakarta. 

"The last South Sea Paradise"

Bali is by far the most popular and globally known of the Indonesian islands.  The Western myth of Bali was created in the 1920s and 1930s, and its fame as “the last South Sea paradise” quickly spread to the West, partly as the result of a regular shipping route opened by the Dutch. Bali soon became a mecca for artists and travellers.  Known for its beautiful beaches, surfing and scuba diving, its mountainous jungle rainforest, its Hindu temples and its exotic "vibe", Bali is also renowned for its highly developed arts including traditional and modern dance, sculpture, painting, leather, metalworking and music.

Lonely Planet gives us its picks for the best Bali beaches and Lyfepile tells us of another 19 things that Bali is known for in the links in the sidebar.

The Gili Islands

Bali can be crowded during the high season (July through August) and if you're looking for a more relaxed island experience, consider the Gili Islands, a two-hour ride away by fast ferry.  The Gili Islands are almost totally devoid of motorized traffic, and travel on the islands is by bike or foot and occasionally an electric scooter.   The Gili Islands are known for its crystal clear waters and abundant sea life, and if go snorkeling or scuba diving, you can expect to spot sea turtles, lionfish, eels, rays, and other amazing aquatic animals. Biking , hiking and watching a sunset  are also high on the to do list of these relaxed islands.  For more "incredible things to do" see the link in the sidebar  

Komodo National Park

Komodo Island is famous for being home to the Komodo dragons, the world’s biggest lizards), and it’s an incredibly scenic place with lots of other great travel experiences.  The UNESCO designated Komodo National Park has dozens of islands with white and pink sand beaches, exotic mountains for trekking and coral reefs for diving, and it’s the only place in the world where you can see Komodo dragons up close in the wild and get your picture taken with them!

The World Travel Guy discusses the most scenic viewpoint ("like a Jurassic Park landscape"), the pink sand beaches (, and of course, the Komodo Dragon Trek ("You’re practically guaranteed to see dragons, even on the short trek, because there are thousands of them living on Komodo and Rinca.") in the sidebar.

Weh Island

Pulau Weh is a volcanic island in northern Sumatra at the western edge of Indonesia.  Far Away World [link in sidebar] describes the island as a "paradise for travellers", adding: "Lush green hills give spectacular views across white sand and sparkling water. The beaches are clean, the sea is clear and the small villages are laidback and friendly. It’s a perfect destination for backpackers as well as those wanting a bit more comfort." And advising: "If you’re after parties and nightlife, [alcohol-free] Pulau Weh isn’t for you...Instead it’s a place to relax, recharge and escape from the world." 

The waters off the island offer some of the best snorkeling and diving in the country, and there is a secluded pool and waterfall outside the city of Sabang that you can easily hike to.  After spending time on the beaches, check out the local markets and restaurants for superb Indonesian cuisine (from freshly caught fish to Indonesian rice and chicken to exotic vegetables) and for beautiful beach towels and cotton clothes brightly colored with the batik technique.  Top off your trip with a scooter ride to the Kilometer Zero viewpoint that sits.  There, you will enjoy some of the most breathtaking views on the island. 

Jakarta

Indonesia's capital city of Jakarta has a lot to offer in terms of modern Indonesian city life.  Travel Triangle has compiled a list of 27 places to visit in Jakarta that will show you the real essence of the city.  [link in sidebar] All of these places have a lot to offer. From waterparks and art galleries to markets and monuments, there is something for everyone. Among the suggested places to visit: the National Monument, the Taman Mini Indonesia Park, the National Museum, Ragunan Zoo,  the Ancol Art Market, the Kota Tua District, and Sea World Jakarta.


Sources: Facts and Details, Lyfepyle

Paradise under threat: the Seychelles

POSTED APRIL 27, 2023

Situated in the Indian Ocean 1000 miles east of Tanzanian coast, the Seychelles is one of the most isolated countries in the world.  Nearly all of the population of 100,000 live on 8 of the 115 islands that make up the Seychelles archipelago, so beautiful that they have been compared with the Garden of Eden.  The completion of the Seychelles airport in 1971 made the Seychelles a renowned tourist spot for half a century with more than 300,000 visiting the island nation in 2022.  

Global warming is endangering the islands.  The climate change threats facing Seychelles are similar to those threatening other small island developing states (SIDS).  These include changes in rainfall patterns leading to flooding, landslides on the one hand and extended periods of drought on the other, increases in sea temperature, changes in acidity and damage to marine ecosystems, increases in storms and storm surges, and, in the long run, sea level rise.  The Seychelles Islands are sinking, and the archipelago has witnessed a devastating coral die-off. Some believe the rising sea levels will put most of the archipelago underwater in 50 to 100 years and leave the rest of it uninhabitable.

Below are descriptions of some of the best places to visit in Seychelles.

Acknowledgement: I took the title of this post from a DW documentary that was made just as the world was emerging from the pandemic.  The documentary (which you can watch here) showcases the archipelago in all its beauty, with rare animal species, white sand beaches, and the conservationists who are working hard to protect it all.  Climate change has severely impacted the archipelago, and the country’s president Wavel Ramkalawan, who is an ordained minister in the Anglican tells us the message he draws from the Bible in his fight to save the islands. 

An "experiment" in Artificial Intelligence.

I queried the Bing chatbot about the best places to visit in the Seychelles.  Below is its reply. Building on this, to the right are some images and videos I found.


Seychelles is a beautiful island nation in the Indian Ocean that offers a variety of attractions for travelers. Some of the best places to visit in Seychelles are:


Sources: 

1. weseektravel.com; 

2. bing.com; 

3. city.suginami.tokyo.jp; 4. sunset-beach-hotel-mahe-island.hotelmix.es; 5.thebrokebackpacker.com; 

6. traveltriangle.com

La Digue Island 


"There are more bicycles than cars on La Digue" (BBC, "La Digue: The Seychelles' tropical biking paradise")

"La Digue is home to Anse Source d'Argent, reputed to be the world's most magnificent beach." (the Luxury Travel Expert - video below)

"La Digue is the laid-back, sleepier sibling to larger Seychelles islands Mahé and Praslin. Nobody ever seems in a hurry on this (almost) motor-free island....Your time is best spent gently, wandering along palm-dappled paths and between beaches with turquoise waters." (Audley)


Praslin Island

The "Heart of Praslin", the Vallée de Mai is home to remnants of the original palm jungles of the Seychelles and has often been described as a "Garden of Eden" thanks to its secluded and mystical nature.  

Mahé


"Regardless of final destination, all visitors to the Seychelles will begin their journey on Mahé, the largest and most diverse island in the archipelago. The name of the island comes from former French Governor Mahé de La Bourdonnais, although the original name for the island was the "Ile d'Abondance", or the "Island of Abundance". Indeed, the island has natural beauty in abundance, with many being won over by the inviting images of sandy, palm-fringed beaches under clear blue sky."


Curieuse Island

"This pristine habitat is full of white beaches, palm trees and granite rocks which form the backdrop to a dreamlike landscape. And what is even more picturesque about this destination? It is home to a colony of about 500 Aldabra giant tortoises - the only place in the world where these extraordinary animals roam in total freedom." (My Best Place) 


Silhouette Island

Silhouette is the most undeveloped and most remote of the Seychelles' inhabited islands.  The forests on the high peaks of Mont Dauban are often shrouded in clouds, so it is sometimes not possible to look across to Mahé. The interior region of Silhouette is a national park, with some of the richest biodiversity in the entire Indian Ocean according to ecologists. Hundreds of endemic birds, reptiles, and plants call the island home.

Beauty, buddhas, and beaches (The Land of Smiles conclusion)

POSTED APRIL 12, 2023

Beauty

Thailand, the Land of  Smiles, is a country imbued with great natural beauty.  Besides its more than one hundred national parks, such as Erawan National Park (Virtual Travel: World's National Parks), there are waterfalls, jungles, islands and mountains for the traveller to explore.  Culture Trip presents its picks for the most beautiful placers to visit in Thailand in the link below.

Buddhas

Approximately 95 percent of Thais practice Theravada Buddhism, the official religion of the country and the more conservative of the two branches.  Theravada Buddhism uses only the original sutras* while Mahayana Buddhism uses those and other more recent texts.  Theravada Buddhism emphasizes wisdom and achieving enlightenment through meditation, while Mahayana Buddhism holds compassion** to be the greatest virtue.  

There are some 30,000 Buddhist temples and 700,000 monks in the country.  Touropia offers us the "10 Most Stunning Temples in Thailand" in the link below.

Beaches

With more than 2000 miles of coastline and 1400 islands, Thailand is home both to gorgeous relaxing beaches and to exciting water sports.  

As Time Out introduces its selection of the 9 best Thailand beaches [link below left]: "The best beaches in Thailand are the stuff of legend, covering everything from secluded stretches of serenity to hedonistic party beaches where the fun never stops. That is how Thailand rolls. White sands, blue water, iconic nightlife, and absolute tranquility."

Diving ("Thailand has more than 349 named diving sites, great weather, warm water, and an astonishing 153 km2 of coral reefs.") and snorkeling ("crystal-clear water, friendly sea turtles, and an abundance of marine life") top Asia Highlights' water sports post [link below right]

Notes

*In Sanskrit, sutra means "thread," and traditional ancient literary sutras attempted to weave knowledge, threadlike, around and into their few simple words or syllables. Definitions of sutra. a rule or aphorism in Sanskrit literature or a group of aphoristic doctrinal summaries prepared for memorization. (vocabulary.com)

**The Great Compassion is one of the important qualities of the Buddha, and it forms the basis of all perfections (pāramitās). It is a chief aspiration for Mahāyāna practitioners to carry on their faith to save sentient beings and to carry on the Buddhist messages from one life to another life with compassion. 


Sources:  The Great Compassion and Fraternity in Mahayana Buddhist Traditions, Claritas Journal of Dialogue and Culutre, Vol 4, No 2 (October 2015), Culture Trip

The Land of Smiles (continued...The Festivals of Chiang Mai)

POSTED MARCH 14, 2023

After leaving Bangkok, the traveler has many other amazing sights to visit, events to enjoy, and things to do in Thailand.  

Seven hundred kilometers north of Bangkok is Chiang Mai, Thailand's second largest city.  The city is renowned for its festivals particularly the Lantern Festival, the Flower Festival, and Songkran.  

The beloved Lantern Festival (usually in November) consists of Yi Peng, where thousands of rice paper lanterns are released into the sky, and Loy Krathong, where candlelit baskets are set into water. 

Loy Krathong, which originated in the ancient Sukhothai Kingdom around 800 years ago, is celebrated to pay respect to and thank the Goddess of Water (called Pra Mae Khongkha) for a year's worth of her abundant supply, ask for an apology for polluting the waters, and pay respect to the Buddha.  

Also deeply rooted in Buddhism, the Yi Peng Lantern Festival may have originated in India with the legend of the candle-carrying bird which once visited the Gautama Buddha and spoke to him about merit. In Thailand, paying respect to Buddha is regarded as a way to be reborn into the next life to enjoy great popularity and purity. 

Both the Yi Peng and th Loy Krathing are celebrated as ways to get rid of negativity and lr4t go misfortunes of the previous year and welcome good fortune in the coming year.  The act of releasing 'floating lanterns' (khom loi) symbolizes letting go of misfortunes from the previous year and wishing for good luck in the coming year. If your lantern disappears into the dark before the light goes out, you will have an extremely good year.

Chiang Mai is nicknamed the Rose of the North. The Damask rose, found in abundance here, and a huge variety of flowers – from the kingdom’s national yellow Ratchaphruek to white chrysanthemums and multi-colored orchids – make Chiang Mai an ideal showcase for Thailand’s reputation as a country with one of the largest plant biodiversity in Southeast Asia.

The Chiang Mai Flower Festival in February is one of the most colorful events in Thailand.  Something between a laid-back Mardi Gras parade and a low-key Tournament of Roses, the festival attracts thousands each year.  A friendly atmosphere, plenty of street food stalls and manageable crowds make the Chiang Mai Flower Festival a fun and relaxed event for all.

Songkran is Thailand's most important public holiday and celebrates their traditional new year and the end of the harvest season. It takes place in April across the country but festivities are at their peak in Chiang Mai.  Water is an important part of the festival.  It symbolizes purification, cleansing of soul and getting rid of bad luck. During Songkran, the faithful pour water over Buddha statues to wash away bad karma.  The streets fill with processions, cultural shows, beauty pageants...and thousands of locals and tourists armed with water pistols and powder. [link below]

With daytime temperatures in the mid-90's, the Chiang Mai Songkran festival has become known for the water pistol battles around the moat surrounding the city center.  Although foreigners now know it mostly for these notorious water pistol battles, the festival started as a more gentle practice, and today most locals celebrate it quietly in temples and at homes.  

The Land of Smiles 

Part One - Bangkok

POSTED FEBRUARY 26, 2023

Thailand, the "Land of Smiles", received its nickname because here a smile is not just a smile - Thais use smiles as a way of personal messaging, and there are at least 13 different smiles that a Thai person may use, each one having a very specific meaning.  They include such gems as fuen yim (the stiff smile, also known as the “I should laugh at the joke even though it’s not funny” smile) and yim thak thaan (the “I disagree with you” smile, also known as the “You can go ahead and propose it but your idea’s no good” smile).  

For ideal weather, visit Thailand during the dry season, which for most of the country* kicks off in November and lasts through March.

There is plenty for the traveller to smile about as he traverses Southeast Asia's most popular destination.  In previous posts, we've had a glimpse of Phuket (Best places to visit in February), Erawan National Park (Virtual Travel: World's National Parks), and Railay Beach (Best Beaches).  This post will visit a few of the sites of the capital city, Bangkok.

A good place to begin touring Bangkok is Khao San Road [below left].   Formerly a backpacker area and now visited by all categories of tourists, the lively street offers a multitude of shops, bars, restaurants and low cost guest houses.  Although Bangkok is renowned for its fine dining places, on Khao San Road you will find legendary Thai street food.  These delicious recipes are often passed down from generation to generation, always served piping hot and fresh, and at a price point so affordable, you'll never break the bank. In fact, street food in Thailand is so cheap that many residents opt to eat out for meals rather than cook at home.

While Bangkok is sometimes described as a concrete jungle jam-packed with noisy traffic and air pollution, Bangkok is not without its natural beauty that is seen in its remaining canals, green spaces and flowering tropical plants. Once known as the Venice of the East because of its network of canals, Bangkok's remaining canals offer another view of the city.  Before there were roads in Bangkok, there were waterways. The canals of Bangkok have always been an integral part of transportation, communication, economics, and general ways of life. As such, over the centuries, markets would spring up along the canals and waterways. These floating markets [below right] are still a vitally important part of modern day Thai culture, and also happen to be some of the best things to do while visiting Thailand.

If Prague is the city of 100 spires, Bangkok is the city of 400 temples.  One of the most renowned is Wat Arun.  Wat Arun [below left] in Bangkok is an ancient temple dating back to the Ayutthaya period (14th-18th centuries). It is considered as one of the most beautiful temples of that era.  With its unique architecture, Wat Arun’s stupas (dome and spires) were built with white bricks and decorated with materials such as, seashells, porcelain, and Benjarong dishes, most of which came from China. There are a variety of sculptures around the Temple like Kinnari (Hindu and Buddhist mythological creatures which are part human and part bird*),  giants, angels, demons, and garudas (winged demi-gods who fight injustice and destroy evil).

Another not-to-be missed site in Bangkok is the Grand Palace [below right], a former royal residence in Bangkok that was consecrated in 1782. Today, it’s only used on ceremonial occasions, but it remains the city's biggest tourist attraction and a pilgrimage destination for devout Buddhists.  It is part of the greater complex of over 200 acres with more than 100 buildings,  that represent 200 years of royal history and architectural experimentation.

Notes

*A major exception is the Lower Gulf - home to the island paradises of Ko Samui, Ko Phangan, and Ko Tao - which is rainiest from October through December.

 **Thai kinnari are depicted as young women wearing an angel-like costume. The lower part of the body is similar to a bird enables her to fly between the human and the mystical worlds.

Sources: Impact Group, Lonely Planet-1, Voyage Tips, Touropia - 1, Touropia - 2, Amazing Thailand, Lonely Planet - 2, Planetware, Travel+Leisure

Best places to visit in February

POSTED JANUARY 26, 2023

Go someplace warm?  Play in the snow? Party at Mardi Gras?  Visit a favorite city in the off-season?  Here are some of the best places to visit in February from travel sites and travel writers.

Go someplace warm

St.  Lucia [below left] was a near unanimous choice for a place to visit in February.  Discussing the most beautiful places in the world, World Pursuit writes: 

"The tiny island nation of St Lucia packs a punch and is widely praised as the most beautiful island in the Caribbean. There are a number of resorts in St Lucia that are jewels in the Caribbean, but it’s hard to find one more unique than Jade Mountain where you’ll get neverending views of The Pitons.  

Lonely Planet adds: 

"Among Caribbean destinations vying for the “most romantic” crown, St Lucia has a couple of particularly enviable attributes: a roster of outstanding upmarket resorts that overlook gorgeous white-sand beaches lapped by the turquoise, bath- warm Caribbean, and a long heritage of cacao plantations fueling a passion for chocolate that’s been reignited in recent years."

Phuket, Thailand [below center] came in first place on US News and World Report's post:

"If your idea of a Thailand vacation includes lounging on sun-drenched beaches or snorkeling in calm seas, look no further than Phuket in February. Visiting the country's largest island during one of the driest months of the year will allow for long beach days unspoiled by showers."

World Pursuit puts Sri Lanka [below right] among its top warm places to visit in February: 

"Head to the vibrant island nation of Sri Lanka for a heavy dose of culture, food, beaches, jungles, and history.  February is a beautiful month to visit Sri Lanka...with an average daily temperature around 27°C or 81°F. Sri Lanka is well known for its hospitable people, tasty food, and unique landscapes."

Play in the snow

World Pursuit recommends Courchevel, France (below left)...

"When it comes to ski vacations, it doesn’t get much better than Courchevel, France. With temperatures hovering around 32°F and state-of-the-art snow maintenance equipment, you can bet that the slope conditions are pristine in February!  This resort area in the French Alps is considered to be the best in the region due to its extra-long ski season. Hop between the four villages that make up this ski area and...enjoy an après-ski scene featuring Michelin-star eateries and glitzy chalets."

...and Norway (below right):

"a fantastic time to visit Norway where you’re almost guaranteed to see the Northern Lights and enjoy some snowy days. Norway’s dramatic landscapes and many winter activities will keep you entertained for weeks.  Mush a dog sled across a frozen lake, snowshoe from mountain hut to hut, spot whales off the coast, ski down the fjord, or spend cozy days in a winter cabin."

Travel + Leisure likes Reno Tahoe, Nevada (center):

"Winter sports fans know about Reno Tahoe, home of the internationally renowned ski resort, Palisades Tahoe, former host of the 1960 Winter Olympics...Away from the slopes, visitors can enjoy the vibrant town with hundreds of murals, Burning Man sculptures, and Liberty Food & Wine Exchange. Stay in the heart of downtown at Whitney Peak Hotel with views of the snowy Sierra Nevadas."

Party at Mardi Gras

Here in the US, of course, it's New Orleans (below left)World Pursuit  sings the Big Easy's praises:

"New Orleans is nothing short of magical. Even with its crumbling old buildings and gritty pubs, there’s an air of romance surrounding this epic American city and February happens to be one of the liveliest and craziest months to visit because that’s when the famous Mardi Gras festival takes place...Enjoy comfortable temperatures of around 66°F as you participate in the festivities by night and explore the city’s wonders by day. Indulge in Creole cuisine and visit top attractions such as Jackson Square, the French Quarter, The National WWII Museum, St. Louis Cathedral, Mardi Gras World, Audubon Zoo and Preservation Hall."

Or, if you are totally fine celebrating with 7 million of your closest friends in a madhouse atmosphere, there is the Carnival in Rio de Janeiro (link to the 2023 guide and program is below right).  

Visit a favorite city in the off-season

Paris (below left) made it to Travel + Leisure's list...

"There may be a chill in the air, but that just means you'll have to bundle up and stroll to a cozy café for a romantic Valentine’s Day visit. A cruise on the Seine, a visit to a museum, and a fabulous dinner are a few ways to enjoy the uncrowded winter season in the City of Lights."

...and World Pursuit adds...

"there’s no worry about businesses and attractions shutting their doors and skipping town for summer vacation...This is also the time of year when there are fewer crowds and hotel rates are cheaper...wander around the art museums and browse designer boutiques. Visit top attractions such as The Louvre Museum, the Eiffel Tower, Arc de Triomphe, the Palace of Versailles, and Musay d’Orsay. "

Rome (below center) ranked #3 on US News and World Report's Best Places to Visit in February:

"There is nothing quite like Rome in the low season if you're looking to experience the Eternal City when it's mostly devoid of tourists. Imagine having top sites such as the Colosseum and St. Peter's Basilica all to yourself (nearly). Though February is very much still winter in Italy, average temperatures in Rome are relatively mild (in the 50s) and rarely dip below freezing. When it rains, which is likely this time of year, pop into a museum, explore the catacombs or do as the Romans do and enjoy a leisurely multicourse meal with great wine and better company."

My favorite US city is St Augustine (below right).  The nation’s oldest city, located on Florida’s northeast historic coast makes it to the Travel + Leisure list for February travel...

"...highlights its role in Black history with an annual event at Fort Mose, the site of the first legally sanctioned free African settlement in what is now the United States. The Flight to Freedom event takes visitors back to the early 18th century to commemorate the beginnings of the Underground Railroad. The Fort Mose Jazz & Blues Series welcomes outstanding performers from Feb. 10-19, “honoring history and community through music.”

Virtual Travel: Antarctic (Part II, Explorers and Scientists)

POSTED JANUARY 13, 2023

Antarctica has no permanent human residents, but this treasure trove of scientific information sees rotating teams of researchers come and go over the course of the year.  The population of people doing and supporting scientific research on the continent varies from approximately 4,000 in summer to 1,000 in winter.  In addition, approximately 1,000 personnel including ship's crew and scientists doing onboard research are present in the waters of the treaty region. The largest station, McMurdo Station, has a summer population of about 1,000 people and a winter population of about 200.

Getting there is a challenge as you might surmise from this 36o degree aerial video.  (You can click and change the angle of view.)

The Explorers

Europeans started exploring Earth’s far southern reaches in the late 18th century for two main reasons: commercial gain and charting cartographic and magnetic contours. By the mid-19th century, commercial sealing had led to the near extinction of the southern fur seal. 

Nations then turned to more scientific pursuits.  The charting of Earth’s magnetic field, with its simplifications for navigation, was a major incentive for these expeditions in the 19th century.

During the first two decades of the 20th century, commonly called the “heroic era” of Antarctic exploration, great advances were made in not only geographic but also scientific knowledge of the continent.

The British National Antarctic Expedition (1901–04), led by British naval officer and explorer Robert Falcon Scott on board the Discovery, set a new record for reaching the farthest point south when Scott, together with Anglo-Irish explorer Ernest H. Shackleton and English explorer Edward A. Wilson, reached 82°17′ S on the Ross Ice Shelf on December 30, 1902.

The South Pole of Earth’s rotation was the unattained goal of Shackleton in 1908–09 but on December 14, 1911, Norwegian explorer Roald Amundsen of the Norwegian Antarctic Expedition of 1910–12 reached it. 

The Scientists

Because it is so expensive to get to Antarctica, only experiments that can be done nowhere else are conducted here.  Some interesting facts about the continent's science:


Insider takes a look at what daily life is like in the Antarctic research stations in the link below.



Sources: Britannica, Wikipedia

Virtual Travel: Antarctica (Part I, The Wildlife)

POSTED JANUARY 5, 2023

On the southern-most tip of the planet lies the mysterious, desolate, icy continent of Antarctica.  Home to the windiest, driest, and coldest spots on Earth, it is also home to a handful of species that have adapted to its harsh conditions.  Space enthusiasts see it as a training spot for a mission to Mars.  For decades, astrogeologists have known it for decades as a treasure trove of meteorites that reveal much of the story of our solar system.  In more recent years, climate scientists have begun to understand the importance the seventh continent's role in the climate crisis.

January, mid-summer in Antarctica is the warmest month with temperatures averaging 6° C (43° F) along the coasts.  Travellers can expect a hive of activity as penguins welcome chicks into their rookeries. Daylight hours begin to reduce towards the end of January, although you can still expect longer days early in the month. 

Mid-February to mid-March is the best time for whale watching in the waters surrounding Antarctica - with numerous sightings of humpback, minke and killer whales (Orcas). Less frequently, a traveller may catch a glimpse of the more elusive blue whale, the largest animal known to have ever existed.

Besides the land and sea, the sky is also home to several hardy bird species, including the South Polar skua and the Antarctic Petrel.

For some interesting facts abut Antarctica's wildlife, see the link below.

Virtual Travel: World National Parks

POSTED OCTOBER 14, 2022

The national park movement, proclaimed "America's best idea" by writer and historian Wallace Stegner, began in the United States in the 19th century.  Based on the concept  that wilderness should be preserved from commercial interests for the sustainable use and enjoyment of all people, the movement went on to spur the creation of protected parkland throughout the world.  Today, there are more than 6,000 national parks around the globe.

Here are three from the Global South.

Erawan National Park in Thailand

Thailand, historically known as Siam to outsiders, is a country in Southeast Asia, located at the center of the Indochinese Peninsula.  It has a population of 70 million and spans an area of nearly 200,000 square miles - about 20% greater than California.  

Founded in 1975 as Thailand’s 12th National Park and located in western Thailand in the Tenasserim Hills range, Erawan National Park is home to one of the most popular falls in the country, the 7-tiered Erawan Falls with its emerald green ponds. There are also several impressive and long caves within the park, some of them deeper inside the park, few of them along the roads around the park. The park and the falls are named after the three-headed white elephant of Hindu mythology. The top tier of the falls is said to resemble an elephant head.

Below left is a video tour of the Park and below right is an image of the fifth tier of the waterfalls from the Erawan National Park webpage

Nairobi National Park in Kenya

Kenya is a country in East Africa.  With an area about midway between that of California and that of Texas, it is home to just under 50 million people.  The British East African Company was granted a charter in 1888, which led to the colonization of present day Kenya.  The Republic of Kenya declared its independence from Great Britain in 1963.

Nairobi National Park in Kenya is the world's only national park that lies within a capital city.  With a backdrop of city skyscrapers, wide open grass plains and scattered acacia bushes play host to a wide variety of wildlife including the endangered black rhino, lions, leopards, cheetahs, hyenas, buffaloes, giraffes and an elephant orphanage. More than 400 bird species have been sited in the park. 

Amazing Places on Our Planet gives us a video tour in the link below.

Itatiatia National Park in Brazil

At 3.28 million square miles and with over 214 million people, Brazil is the world's fifth-largest country by area and the seventh most populous. Colonized by Portugal in 1500, Brazil became a sovereign nation in 1822.

Designated as Brazil's first national park in 1937, the Itatiatia National Park is in southeastern Brazil about 125 miles Rio de Janeiro.  It holds the origin of 12 rivers and features rainforests, mountains and alpine meadows within its borders.  The park is divided into a high area of mountains, some approaching 10,000 ft high and a low area near the city of Itatiatia and home to numerous waterfalls.  

Culti TV gives us a sub-titled video tour of the park and the nearby towns in the link below.

Sources: BBC, World National Parks, Travel Triangle, Thai National Parks, Kenya Wildlife Service, Wikipedia

Best places to visit in October

POSTED SEPTEMBER 28, 2022

Looking forward to cooler weather, fun festivals, colorful leaves? Or maybe want to hang on to summer a bit longer?  The Vacation Idea website [link below] has 25 recommendations from around the world. 

Virtual Travel: Sri Lanka

POSTED SEPTEMBER 5, 2022

Currently in the midst of an economic and political crisis and with a State Department advisory in effect, the island of Sri Lanka is the first of our Virtual Travel posts.  


Just off the southern tip of the Indian subcontinent, Sri Lanka's natural beauty has attracted travelers for centuries.  The pear-shaped tropical island is about the size of West Virginia and is home to 22 million.  Famous for its tea and flavorful food, the tiny country has 8 UNESCO World Heritage sites, numerous ancient ruins, a tropical rainforest, whale watching, surfing, and beaches galore.   

According to the Sinhalese tradition,  the first Indian settlers on Sri Lanka were Prince Vijaya and his 700 followers, who landed on the west coast near Puttalam (5th century bce). The first Europeans to visit Ceylon, as it was formerly known, were the Portuguese in 1505.   The Dutch followed the Portuguese and then the British.  The country finally achieved independence in 1948 and changed its name to Sri Lanka in 1972.  Unfortunately, ethnic strife and a 25-year civil war kept tourism in Sri Lanka down, and it remained fairly unknown.  

Sri Lanka has a connection to several block-buster movies.  The "India" scenes of Steven Spielberg's Indiana Jones and the Temple of Doom were actually filmed in Sri Lanka.  Science fiction writer Arthur C. Clarke (2001: A Space Odyssey) made Sri Lanka his home from 1956 until his death in 2008, and the Canadian novelist and poet Michael Ondaatje (The English Patient) was born there.  Both 2001: A Space Odyssey and The English Patient were turned into Academy-Award winning films.  

Videos from Lonely Planet and Touropia [linked below] show us some of the highlights of the island.

The East Coast's National Parks

POSTED AUGUST 17, 2022

"Everybody needs beauty as well as bread, places to play in and pray in, where nature may heal and give strength to body and soul."     - John Muir

As the Industrial Revolution proceeded apace and the American wilderness disappeared, visionaries such as John Muir and George Catlin saw the need for preserving the natural beauty of the land for all the people.  On March 1, 1872, Congress established Yellowstone National Park in the Territories of Montana and Wyoming "as a public park or pleasuring-ground for the benefit and enjoyment of the people" and placed it "under exclusive control of the Secretary of the Interior." The founding of Yellowstone National Park began a worldwide national park movement. Today more than 100 nations contain some 1,200 national parks or equivalent preserves. (National Park Service)

Today, the US national park system has grown to encompass 423 sites, including 63 officially designated as national parks.   While the national parks of the West are the most known, the East Coast has its own share of spectacularly preserved wilderness.   

Among them:

Acadia National Park (Maine) - The Crown Jewel of the North Atlantic Coast, "Acadia National Park protects the natural beauty of the highest rocky headlands along the Atlantic coastline of the United States, an abundance of habitats, and a rich cultural heritage." (National Park Service) 

Shenandoah National Park (Virginia) - "Just 75 miles from the bustle of Washington, D.C., Shenandoah National Park is a land bursting with cascading waterfalls, spectacular vistas, fields of wildflowers, and quiet wooded hollows. With over 200,000 acres of protected lands that are haven to deer, songbirds, and black bear, there's so much to explore." (National Park Service)

Everglades National Park (Florida) - "Everglades National Park protects an unparalleled landscape that provides important habitat for numerous rare and endangered species like the manatee,  American crocodile, and the elusive Florida panther.  An international treasure as well -  a World Heritage Site, International Biosphere Reserve, a Wetland of International Importance, and a specially protected area under the Cartagena Treaty."  (National Park Service)

The More Than Just Parks website gives its take on the "10 Best East Coast National Parks" in the link below.

Dr. Beach's 10 Best Beaches 2022

POSTED JULY 5, 2022

For over three decades, Stephen Leatherman ("Dr. Beach"), Professor and Director of the Laboratory for Coastal Research at Florida International University has reviewed, evaluated and rated beaches and coastal areas throughout the world.  Each year, "Dr. Beach" names the best beaches in the country, evaluating and ranking them against 50 criteria ranging from beach width and sand softness to views, vistas, and vegetation.  

Below is a dynamic link to Dr. Beach's homepage with the list of the top 10 US beaches for 2022.  This year's list includes 3 beaches in the Carolinas, 2 in Florida, 2 in Hawaii, and one each in California, Massachusetts, and New York.

The Seven Natural Wonders of the World

POSTED JUNE 15, 2022

The "wonders of the world" concept dates back to the fifth century B.C., when the Greek historian Herodotus contemplated the amazing achievements of art and architecture created by the Persians and Greeks.  The list that came to be known as the 7 Wonders of the World was compiled in the Middle Ages based on Greek texts dating from the second and third century BC.  These wonders were a type of travel guide for the ancients, perhaps serving a purpose similar to that of the Grand Tour of 19th century Europe, or maybe an ancient "bucket list".  [link below

Unfortunately, the passage of time and the misdeeds of man have left just one of the ancient wonders still standing, the Great Pyramid of Giza.  In 2007, the New 7 Wonders organization announced the results of its global internet poll and published The New Seven Wonders of the World.

In 1997,  CNN put together a list of "Seven Natural Wonders of the World."  Those titles were awarded to Mount Everest in Nepal, the harbor of Rio de Janeiro in Brazil, the Paricutin volcano in Mexico, the Aurora Borealis, the Grand Canyon in the USA, the Great Barrier Reef off the coast of Australia, and Victoria Falls in Africa.

Mount Everest (source


Formed from the tectonic collision of the Eurasian plateau with the Indian plate, the world’s highest peak is located on the border between Nepal and Tibet, standing at the height of 29,029 feet. In 1953, after months of training, thirty-three-year-old Edmund Hillary from New Zealand and his friend Tenzing Norgay from Nepal managed to reach the top of Mt. Everest.  The news of the successful expedition reached Elizabeth II on the day of her coronation. 

The Harbor of Rio de Janeiro

Formed by erosion caused by the Atlantic Ocean, granite cliffs and mountains guard the entrance to the one of the largest bays in the world.  It was discovered by Portuguese explorers in January 1502. Without thinking twice, the navigators named the port Rio de Janeiro.  Overlooking the harbor today is the massive statue of Christ the Redeemer, named one of the New Seven Wonders of the World by the New 7 Wonders organization.

Paricutin Volcano in Mexico



There are 1400 volcanoes in Mexico, and Paricutin is the youngest of them.  Named after the village that was destroyed by its eruption. it is the only volcano whose formation process in 1943 was witnessed and successfully documented by humans.  



The Grand Canyon

The Grand Canyon's massive and colorful landscape provides breathtaking views that can't be found anywhere else in the world. The canyon valley is located in the State of Arizona, stretching for 275 miles. The steepest walls of the canyon go down to a depth of more than 1 mile, and its width at the plateau level exceeds 18 miles. The canyons were formed by the continuous erosion of the waters of the Colorado River. Scientists estimate that the beginning of the formation of the canyon began around 17 million years ago. 

Great Barrier Reef


As the world's largest coral reef, the Great Barrier Reef includes over nine hundred islands, roughly three thousand separate reefs, and sustains a diverse ecosystem. with fish of all shapes and colors circling among the coral bowls.  In summer, sea turtles come here to lay their eggs and can be seen near the coast. The famous explorer James Cook is considered to be the discoverer of the Great Barrier Reef. 

For more on the Seven Natural Wonders of the World, check out the links below from PlanetWare and Earth and Human.

Saba, the Unspoiled Queen

POSTED MAY 24, 2022

Thirty miles southwest of St. Maarten in the Netherland Antilles lies the small island of Saba.  Just 5 square miles in area, Saba is essentially the top of a dormant volcano.  Hosting a cloud forest, a rainforest and a tropical dry forest, with coral reefs offshore and with little commercial development, Saba is a popular eco-tourism destination.  

Untouched by the quickening pace of the modern world, Saba has been dubbed the "Unspoiled Queen." Hiking Mt. Scenery and diving in the pristine waters of the Saba National Marine Park top the list of activities, but there are also craft workshops, wine tastings and museums to enjoy.  A link to Saba's official tourism site is here.

Unusual for a Caribbean island, Saba has no beach but that didn't stop beach.com from singing its praises. Links to the beach.com post and to two video tours of the island are below.

White-knuckle-flier note: If you wish to forego landing on the world's shortest commercial runway, Saba is a 90 minute ferry ride from St. Maarten.

Belize

POSTED APRIL 27, 2022

The small Central American country of Belize was known in earlier days as British Honduras.  It was the last continental possession of Great Britain in the Americas.  Renamed Belize in 1973, it gained full independence in 1981.  Located on the eastern coast of Central America, with the Caribbean Sea to the east and dense jungle in the west, Belize has plenty for the adventurous traveler as well as for the more laid-back.  

Offshore, the massive Belize Barrier Reef [below left], dotted with hundreds of low-lying islands called cayes, hosts rich marine life.  Once the center of the Maya Empire, Belize’s jungle areas are home to Mayan ruins like Caracol, renowned for its towering pyramid [below right]

Best things to do in Belize - Lonely Planet 

Home - Travel Belize 

The Travel Belize website has a wealth of information for visitors as well as featured articles such as the one below left on eco-explorer Mario Rigby.  Meanwhile, Lonely Planet provides a 23 item list of the best things to do in Belize. [below right]


Lonely Planet: "When it comes to adventure, Belize’s glittering Caribbean coastline, wildlife-filled jungles and coral reefs and mysterious underground cave systems provide endless opportunities. Meanwhile, the country's diverse cultural heritage means there’s delicious cuisine and fun activities to be discovered. Predominantly boutique hotels are your gateway to the jewel in the crown of Central America, whether it’s the private island or ecolodge vibe you’re after. "

In addition to (of course) exploring Mayan ruins, Lonely Planet's suggestions include:  a bioluminescence boat tour, exploring Garifuna culture, birdwatching Belize's 500 avian species, scuba diving at the Blue Hole Natural Monument, releasing a blue morpho butterfly into the wild, snorkel at Hol Chan Marine Reserve, and relaxing on Secret Beach.

 Norway

POSTED FEBRUARY 23, 2022

Besides being the all-time and 2022 Winter Olympics' medal winners, Norway ranks No.1 on both the 2021 Democracy Index and and the UN's Human Development Index.  The homeland of the Vikings, innumerable fjords and valleys, glaciers and frozen tundra, northern lights in winter, midnight sun in summer, majestic mountains, stunning islands, trendy cities and the second longest coastline in the world, Norway is a beautiful place to visit anytime of the year.

Below is a smorgasbord of what travel sites have to say about some top destinations in one of the world's most beautiful countries along with links to the articles [below left].

Lonely Planet 

"Wherever you find yourself in Norway, these landscapes serve as a backdrop for some of Europe's prettiest villages." 

Geirangerfjord: "The 12-mile (20km) chug along Geirangerfjord, a UNESCO World Heritage site, must rank as the world's loveliest ferry journey. Long-abandoned farmsteads still cling to the fjord's near-sheer cliffs while ice-cold cascades tumble, twist and gush down to emerald-green waters."

Bergen: Set amid a picturesque and very Norwegian coastal landscape of fjords and mountains, Bergen is one of Europe's most beautiful cities. A celebrated history of seafaring trade has bequeathed to the city the stunning (and Unesco World Heritage-listed) waterfront district of Bryggen, an archaic tangle of wooden buildings.  

Preikestolen: "As lookouts go, Preikestolen (Pulpit Rock) has few peers. Perched atop an almost perfectly sheer cliff that hangs more than 2000ft (600m) above the waters of gorgeous Lysefjord, Pulpit Rock is one of Norway's signature images and most eye-catching sights."

PlanetWare

"Norway offers visitors an incredible mix of cultural and natural wonders. From cosmopolitan Oslo to its endless snowcapped mountain peaks and deep fjords, there's no end of choices for travelers in the land of the midnight sun and stunning northern lights." 

Sognefjord: The largest of Norway's fjords, Sognefjord reaches 204 kilometers inland from the coastal village of Skjolden and branches off into countless smaller inlets and fjords along the way. [left]

Tromsø: Situated 349 kilometers north of the Arctic Circle, Tromsø is best known for its important role as the base for many major Arctic expeditions since the mid 1800s. The Tromsø area was first settled in the 13th century as a fishing village, and the industry has been an integral part of life here ever since, contributing to the area's maritime charm...Tromsø is a top destination for those hoping to see the spectacular aurora borealis, or northern lights.

Lofoten Islands: "The Lofoten Islands form an archipelago off the coast of northwestern Norway and are a popular tourist destination for Norwegians and foreigners alike. Thanks to the Gulf Stream, the weather here is mild despite its location within the Arctic Circle."

Touropia

"While daylight may be limited during the winter months, Norway’s cities are alive with sophisticated style and an energetic vibrancy. The Viking capital of Trondheim encompasses the country’s historical side, Bergen is where to go to glimpse colorful wooden houses, and the chic capital Oslo is home to laid-back living, city parks, and a lively dining scene."

Ålesund: "Located on Norway’s west coast, Ålesund is the gateway to the iconic northwestern fjords and surrounding alpine mountains. The city of Alesund owes its present-day picturesque appearance to a city-wide reconstruction after a fire in 1904...The city stands today as a perfect example of Jugendstil design, Northern Europe’s version of Art Nouveau.

Oslo: "Surrounded by green hills and mountains, Norway’s capital Oslo is set in a scenic spot at the end of Oslofjord fjord, with an abundance of lakes and islands nearby... As well as its thriving performing arts scene and packed festival schedule, the city boasts excellent museums and art galleries; the Viking Ship Museum is particularly fascinating to explore."

Trondheim: "There’s something for everyone in the northern city of Trondheim. Founded in 997, Norway’s third largest city was the country’s capital during the Viking Age and the nation’s religious center during the Middle Ages, making it the ideal destination for those who want to explore Norway’s history."