P-17

The textile industry is urged to become ‘more sustainable’. If sustainability -concerning textiles- is discussed there are two aspects to be considered. One aspect is about social themes as working conditions, freedom of organizing and fair wages. The other aspect is related to environmental issues. The project Going Eco Going Dutch deals with environmental issues and focusses on the use of local recycled and renewable fibers. Yarns containing recycled fibers loose strength caused by short average staple length. Increased fraction recycled fibers, coded with r, leads to decrease of strength. Decrease of strength is compensated by adding virgin fibers. Therefor several yarns have been developed and 4 yarns have been selected to be used in a woven fabric.

• Yarn 1: 50% rCotton/22%viscose/14% hemp/14% rJeans

• Yarn 2: 50% rCotton/25%polyester/25% rJeans

• Yarn 3: 100% hemp

• Yarn 4: 55% hemp/45%rCotton

rCotton is locally produced mechanically recycled fibers, viscose is a virgin standard viscose, polyester is virgin standard polyester and virgin hemp. The woven fabric is evaluated for tensile and tear strength. The woven fabrics are not optimized by finishing.

One of the decisive quality aspects for woven fabrics are tensile and tearing strength. The various fabrics have been tested on these aspects and the result is compared with known commercial demands.

Conclusion

In the warp direction of the cloth both tensile and tearing strength meet general product requirements. The hemp/cotton product does not meet the minimum requirements in warp and weft direction. The blended yarn, consisting of rCotton, viscose, hemp and rJeans does also not meet the minimum tear strength requirements in weft direction.