August 30, 2019

Eighteen Ramblers were led on a guided walk (https://photos.app.goo.gl/TYUyzpqZqNpm3Hpq5) by naturalist Valerie Olson, who is head of the More Mesa Preservation Coalition (moremesa.org). The 265 acre oceanfront parcel adjoins Hope Ranch and is the last and most significant undeveloped coastal open space in the urbanized Goleta/Santa Barbara area. It includes grasslands, oak woodland, and riparian habitat as well as trails that are popular with beach-goers, birdwatchers, hikers, horseback riders, and photographers.

Valerie began by discussing a recent real estate listing that has it offered for sale at a price of $65 million. The listing states that: "The oceanfront land was appraised in 2007 at $106 million and is zoned for 70 homes. Although the requirement in that location is 30% of the size of this land can be a buildable area, being 80 acres, yet the county compelled by the environmentalists to allow only 15 %, being 40 acres." She then recalled that a piece of the property on the northwestern edge of More Mesa was protected in 1991 and she hopes that there will be similar initiatives that will protect the entire parcel from development.

As we rambled over the property Valerie described the flora. Since it was the gold, not green season, the flora, most of which are non-native, were unspectacular but nevertheless interesting. She pointed out the large fennel plants, a species in the carrot family with yellow flowers and feathery leaves — one that is the food of choice for swallowtail butterfly caterpillars. Fennel is highly aromatic and the flavorful herb that is used in cooking with a taste similar to anise. She also commented on the large expanses of golden Timothy grass that is commonly grown to make hay, but in this case provides wildlife food and a pleasing Mesa landscape.

As with the flora, the Mesa's fauna are not easy to see during late summer especially in the afternoon. Valerie pointed out a bare patch in the ground that can become a pool of water in winter, a “vernal pool”, such as the one that appeared during 2018-2019. During such years, a vernal pool basin will experience inundation from rain followed by desiccation. These conditions are commonly associated with a Mediterranean climate like Santa Barbara's. Such habitat is a type of wetland that supports the presence of unique amphibian and insect species. She described how many species can lay dormant in the dry earth for years, but then emerge after rain fills the pools and reported that UCSB biologists have found a myriad of specimens including aquatic insects, frogs, salamanders, toads, zooplankton, and even types of tiny shrimp.

Valerie also enumerated the many raptors that nest/hunt on the Mesa including Burrowing Owl, Cooper's Hawk, Great-horned Owl, Northern Harrier, American Kestrel, Merlin, Red-shouldered Hawk, Sharp-shinned Hawk, and the very special White-tailed Kite. We were even lucky enough to see six of the latter flying and roosting. Valerie explained that, as contrasted with humans, many birds, including raptors, have vision in the ultraviolet range of light and most mammals such as mice and gophers mark their trails with urine or feces that absorb ultraviolet. This allows raptors to spot the highways of small mammals and then swoop on their prey. This is especially effective in treeless regions such as More Mesa where they can see a highway map of their prey's movements and rapidly scout large areas.

There are three major trails on More Mesa: Coastal Bluff, Central Valley with its East and West forks, and West Canyon. As we walked along the Coastal Bluff trail Valerie described the marker for paragliders who use the offshore breeze bumping against the cliffs to obtain lift and glide effortlessly back and forth along the Mesa. She also pointed out how the cliffs are rapidly eroding and with dangerous drop-offs. In one location, with major erosion and subsidence, Ron Williams pointed out an exposed black cable. He explained how in early 1942 a Japanese submarine bombarded the oil facility at Ellwood as the first and only shelling of the US during WW2. As a result, there was an invasion scare that influenced the decision to intern Japanese-Americans, plus it resulted in the establishment of lookout posts all along the South Coast including a string in Hope Ranch and More Mesa. These posts were connected by telephone cables and we were able to see the remnants of one after 77 years. Since the cable was likely buried a considerable distance from the bluff edge at that time, and because most of it has now fallen down the cliff, it demonstrates the magnitude of cliff erosion that has taken place over the decades.

As we finished our approximately three-mile ramble, taking two hours, Christina Schowe spotted a white Praying Mantis well camouflaged in the dry grass. Valerie explained how they molt about ten times as they grow toward adulthood. After each molt, the Mantis is a pure white color and looks like an albino. However, the white coloration only lasts a short period of time and soon the Mantis darkens into a brown or green color. It was nice capstone to a lovely experience. We were lucky to have Valerie as our docent to share her knowledge of and passion for this unique open space.