SD Player Wiring

After collecting all of the parts, here's how I wired it up.

First thing I did was to populate and wire the adapter card.

Solder the 74374 and two clocks to the adapter card. Installed so pin 1 on 374 was on pin 1 of adapter.

I oriented the clocks so their writing was the same way as the writing on the 374.

Connected the 374 per below.

Used the holes on adapter card, just be careful with pin numbers.

The stuff that gets connected to the DAC and SDP just need wires right now, the wires are connected later.

See picture.

Pin 1 to ground

Pins 2 through 9 are not used.

Pin 10 to ground

Pin 11 on chip and 19 on adapter: to clock out (Mclk)

Pin 12 on chip and 20 on adapter: Bit clock to DAC

Pin 13 on chip and 21 on adapter: Bit clock from SDP

Pin 14 on chip and 22 on adapter: LR clock from SDP

Pin 15 on chip and 23 on adapter: LR clock to DAC

Pin 16 on chip and 24 on adapter: Data to DAC

Pin 17 on chip and 25 on adapter: Data from SDP

Pins 18/19 on chip and 26/27 on adapter: not used

Pin 20 on chip and 28 on adapter: to 3.3 VDC

Clock wiring:

Note that Pin 1 of the clocks is the lower left corner in the pic above, the dot shows up better in the pic then real life lol. Pin 2 lower right, 3 upper right and 4 upper left

Pin 1 is enable. I connected this to pins 15/16 and 17/18 on the adapter. These are unused on the adapter, so this was an easy way to connect to the signals on the SDP card.

Pins 15 and 16 are shorted together, then I run from pin 1 on 22 MHz clock to pin 15 and pin 16 to SDP 22 MHz clock pin 1.

pin 1 on 24 MHz clock to pin 18 and pin 17 to SDP 24 MHz clock pin 1.

Pin 2 is ground, connect to pin 10 on adapter, which is ground for 374. Connect this to ground on SDP.

Pin 3 is output. Connect both clock outputs to pin 11 of 374 (pin 19 of adapter)

Pin 4 is Vcc, connect to 3.3V from LifePO4 battery.

I ran copper tape around the edges and on the back of the adapter board to carry a good ground between the clocks, and to the FF. Scrapped through the solder mask to solder the tape to the copper area on the back that runs through the board.

Then I put a piece of kapton tape down as an insulator, and ran a piece of copper tape on top of that to make a better ground plane on the back.

This tape was connected to the ground pin (10) of the 74374.

Wiring the SDP

First thing I did was add a 3.3VDC LifePO4 battery, an A123 26650 cell installed in a battery holder from ebay.

ebay battery holder

In various places, I used an exacto knife to scrap off solder mask to get to the ground plane. I did it at the left of the picture below, then ran a pieces of copper tape from the ground plane to the negative battery terminal.

I soldered a slide switch I had to the positive terminal, then used hot glue to help hold the switch in place.

Used earthquake putty (similar to blue tak) to hold the batter to the SDP.

The other side of the switch gets connected to the tab of the AMS1117 voltage regulator. Tab is the output, and this will provide 3.3V. This keeps the battery charged up while the player is running.

EDIT: Later, based on advice from tirna, I removed the 1117 from the board, and remounted it near the battery.

I also wired up a walwart that provided 9V to VDC in, which is the input to the AMS.

The cap that came on the Vin was only rated for 6V or something like that, so I removed and installed a higher voltage cap to use 9V in to power this. The AMS1117 has a max input voltage of 15VDC.

To turn on, I plug in the walwart, and then turn the switch on to connect the battery. Be sure to turn off the switch when power is not supplied to the SDP, or the battery will drain down.

To connect the clocks, you either need to remove the two onboard clocks (I tried and was unable to get them off), or remove the two 33R resistors shown in the pic below, above the clocks.

Removing these will isolate the clocks installed on the SDP from the rest of the board. This lets you connect the upgraded clocks without any interference.

I connected the clock output of the adapter board to one of the 33R pads. Use the pads that do NOT tie to the clocks, so basically one of the two middle pads that connect to the via above the resistors. After you do this, you need to be very careful with moving the adapter card. These little pads are easy to pull up, so try to move the adapter as little as possible after this connection is made. I picked this point because it was closer than the connector.

Note that before I made this connection, I had all the other wires installed on the adapter card, cut to length and stripped, so I just needed to solder them to their final destination.

Now connect the rest up.

Connected another piece of copper tape from the SDP ground plane to the adapter ground plane. Pick a point on the SDP as close as possible to the adapter.

The connector by the AMS1117, shown in the pic below, is where you pick up the I2S signals.

They connect to the adapter as follows:

Pin 11 on chip and 19 on adapter: to MCLK

Pin 13 on chip and 21 on adapter: BCLK

Pin 14 on chip and 22 on adapter: LRCK

Pin 17 on chip and 25 on adapter: DATA

Note that I didn't connect DSD.

LRCK and BCLK get crossed over here, so they can go straight through after the FF.

Connections from DAC to adapter board:

Pin 12 on chip and 20 on adapter: LR clock to DAC

Pin 15 on chip and 23 on adapter: Bit clock to DAC

Pin 16 on chip and 24 on adapter: Data to DAC

I connected ground from the copper tape to an isolated ground pin on the DAC.

Note that I positioned the adapter board as close as possible to the DAC I2S pins.