Here is my parts list for the main amp.
First you have to pick the DHT output tube. I picked a type 45.
Then you have to select items such as power and output transformer, and make some other choices along the way.
Power Transformer
660V(330-260-0-260-330)@175mA, 6.3V(3.15-0-3.15)@4A & 5V(2.5-0-2.5)@3A
The 260 taps are meant for 45 tubes, and this transformer as designed specifically for a TSE.
The guy who speced it now regrets the 260 tap, because if you home AC voltage is on the high side, you get a high B+. But there are ways around this, which will be discussed later.
Output Transformer
I ordered this: 5K @ 50ma to 46 and 300 ohm sec approx 2-3 watts, low IMD
Got it about one week after payment. Jack was really easy to deal with, can email any questions and he answers quickly.
Electra print has a very good reputation, and these days I couldn't find that many options for a SE output transformer for headphones. Jack custom winds, and had this design already, so was quick and easy.
B+ Choke
For generating B+, you can use a resistor or choke, but choke will filter noise better
Triad C-14X 6H; Tol -20%; +50%; Cur 200mA; Leads; DCR 150 Ohms
NOTE: After I built and checked out my amp, I decided to add another C-14X, to make a CLCLC filter, instead of the recommended CLC or CRC filter that board supports.
So I ordered a 2nd C-14x later, and another 100uf, 450V cap to make the additional CL part of the filter. Will be explained in the B+ part of this wiki.
C4
The size of C4 sets the output voltage.
Rectifier Tube
Tubelab recommends a 5AR4/GZ34 type rectifier tube. They have a slow start up time compared to most. But they also have a relatively low voltage drop, and combined with my high AC, it makes my B+ high.
I had a 5V4G in my tube stash. This is a slow start up tube too, but not as slow as the 5AR4. But it also has about a 10-15V voltage drop over the 5AR4, so I used this instead.
Other tubes, like a 5Y4G and 5U4G have a higher drop, but they turn on B+ almost right away. Your output tube will last longer if you let the heater come on before B+ is applied.
Coupling Caps
Obviously lots of choices and opinions here. A late decision I made in the amp was to put the coupling caps C9 and C11, on the top of the amp where I could easily swap them out.
I have ampohms copper oil, Mundorf silver gold, and some others to try out.
Pots
I decided to use multiturn cemet pots like this one
Here is the rest of the parts I used, based on the TSE parts list, but went with parts I thought would sound better.
I used Audio Note Tantalums (on sale at the time from Parts Connexion) in the signal path.
PRPs elsewhere, and Kiwame's when I needed higher power resistors.
TSE Parts list
R1 510r 1/4w PRP
R2 510r 1/4w PRP
R3 2.2 5W Kiwame
R4 Triad C-14X
R5 270 2w Kiwame
R6 10k 5w Kiwame
R7 100k 2w Kiwame
R8 120k 1/4w AN Tant
R9 1k POT T93
R10 510 1/4w PRP
R11 22k 2W PRP
R12 100k POT T93
R13 120k 2w PRP
R14 30k 5w Kiwame
R15 120k ¼ AN Tant
R16 330 1/4w PRP
R17 ¼ PRP
R18 1/4 W AN Tant
R19 ¼ W AN Tant
R20 Pot
R21 1/4W PRP
R22 2W PRP
R23 Pot
R24 2W PRP
R25 5W Kiwame
R26 1/4w AN Tant
R27 1/4w PRP
R28 1/4w PRP
R29 1/4w AN Tant
R30 2W Kiwame with Diode in parallel
R31 1/4w AN Tant
R32 1/4w AN Tant
R33 1/4w AN Tant
R34 1/4w AN Tant
R35 240 1/4w PRP (not used for 2.5V tubes like 45)
C1 15000uf, 10v nichi
C2 4700uf 25v nichi
C3 3300uf 10v Silmic II
C4 10uf 450v
C5 150uf 450v
C6 47uf 450v
C7 100uf 350v
C8 3300uf 10v Silmic II
C9 Coupling ampohm copper paper oil
C10 3300uf 10v Silmic II
C11 Coupling ampohm copper paper oil