Recusant vestments were used by Catholic communities during the period when Roman Catholicism was illegal in England. The Timeline and Interactive Map shows the details of this legislation and its consequences, starting in the late 1570s through to the repeal of these Acts from the late 18th century. The word ‘recusant’ comes from the Latin recusare meaning ‘to refuse’. English Roman Catholics who refused to attend established church services were subjected to a number of penalties and restrictions.
Most vestments have a symbolic meaning and are associated with a specific prayer which the priest would say when preparing for mass or ‘vesting’. A set of vestments was often made using the same colour and decoration. The colour may be chosen to correspond with different phases of the Christian year. For example, purple vestments are intended for Lent or Advent and white vestments for Christmas or Easter although the more complex colour coding probably varied over time and in different regions.
Chasuble - A sleeveless vestment which is the uppermost garment worn by Catholic or High Anglican priests over the stole and alb when celebrating Mass. The shape has varied considerably over time, from a full circle to a narrow 'fiddle-shape' style in the 17th and 18th centuries with a return to the option of a fuller ‘Gothic’ style in the 19th century. Chasubles may have elaborate embroidery or be decorated with bands of applied embroidery called orphreys.
Stole - a narrow, often very long, piece of fabric which may bell out at the ends. Usually made in the same colour as the rest of a set of mass vestments and often elaborately embroidered. A priest wears the stole under the chasuble.
Dalmatic - a T shaped garment distinguished by their long sleeves. This type of robe is worn by deacons, who provided assistance to the priest during Mass. Traditionally they were men who were in the final years of training for the priesthood but after church reform in the 1960s the role was opened to laymen.
Maniple - this probably originated as a piece of linen used to wipe a priest’s hands or face but evolved into a band to be worn hanging from left arm. Maniples are now rarely used but were usually made of silk, could be shaped like a small stole and were ornamented in the same style as the rest of a set.
These are large semi-circular cloaks, with the front edges clasped together by an ornamental fastening called a morse. They are generally worn in processions but may be used at certain stages of a Mass or other services, including funerals.
A white linen garment that takes the form of a simple ankle-length tunic. A priest wears it under the chasuble. It is tied at the waist with a rope belt or girdle, often made of white linen thread.
Textiles used in preparing the chalice for Mass:
The Colour of Vestments: