The Mary of Modena Vestment

The Mary of Modena Vestment:

Current location: St Mary's College, Oscott, Birmingham

Inventory No 451: A chasuble of the gothic shape in gold cloth, with a weft of silver thread to the upper surface only. Applied with pillar and cross orphreys or ivory silk. The cross orphrey is embellished in the centre with a scarlet velvet quatrefoil panel with couched with metal threads and sequins. The cross is edged in silver braid with a second thinner braid set inside the cross. The pillar orphrey is edged with silver braid and there is evidence where the thinner braid would have sat – but is no longer in situ. The chasuble is edged with a border of red and green velvet panels. It was probably originally fiddle- shaped but re-worked with the velvet panels in the 19th/ early 20th century and turned into the Gothic form.

It is reputedly made by Mary of Modena, Queen of England and wife of James II. It was constantly carried by the 16^th Earl of Shrewsbury on his travels and was later given by him to St John’s, Alton. How is came to be part of the Oscott collection is unknown.

Material:

Silk

Dimensions: Height- 112cm Width- 97cm

Maker / Artist / Origin:

English (?) continental fabric (?)

Date:

Early 17^th Century with later additions

Note:

Previous examination of this vestment by a textiles expert from the V&A notes that: the central red velvet quatrefoil and green and red velvet edging borders are 19^th century additions. Small sections of the original embroidery can be glimpsed through gaps in the central red velvet quatrefoil and at the edges where diapered silver thread, silver strip and purl wire palmette and rays extrude.

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