Kisokaidô: Takamiya - Station 64

Utagawa Hiroshige - Series of the 69 Stations of the Kisokaido: Station Takamiya (66th print) (Takamiya)

© Trustees of the British Museum

It is the dry season and the waters of the Inugami-gawa River have dwindled almost to nothing. In the riverbed, trestles (1) mark the path of a dismantled bridge. In the centre of the composition, two women carrying loads of silk moth cocoons wrapped in straw walk between a pair of large pine trees. The second wears a blue-patterned clothing (2) typical of this region and called Takamiya stripes. Behind them, a samurai (3) clad in green turns to make a comment as he descends to make the crossing. A monk (4) carrying his begging bowl is coming towards them and other figures can be seen making their way across the river bed. On the far bank is the stone lantern that marks the crossing and the roofs of the station (5) with Mt.Suzuka in the distance, appearing blue in the haze. The roofs of the station are wooden tiles, not thatched, a proof of the prosperity of this station, thanks to the cotton and hemp cultures and to the visitors to the Great Shrine of Taga-Taisha.

This print was not modified and has the correct “65” number.

(Source: The 69 stations of the Kisokaido, Sebastian Izzard, Brazillier 2008)

Takamiya and the grand torii in 1805 in "Kisoji Meisho Zue" or Illustrated album of the famous places along the Kiso road (1805)

Taga Taisha Great Shrine in "Kisoji Meisho Zue" or Illustrated album of the famous places along the Kiso road (1805)

And now ?

Takamiya is now the south-east section of Hikone city. The village was created in the 7th century when the Taiga-Taisha Shrine was established and benefited from the popularity of the shrine. It was one of the first stations to be awarded official status as a post station. In 1843, it was by far the largest station in the Omi Province with over 3500 inhabitants, one honjin (only its gate remains), one waki-honjin and 23 inns. The hemp culture and fabric manufacturing contributed to the town’s importance and prosperity. In the 1843 census, most of the women were listed as working in textile production and the men in hemp harvesting or fabric trading. Even if now, the production has moved to cheaper places, Takamiya has kept a strong economic activity.

The large torii in the centre of the town indicates the way to the great Shrine. A wonderful view (above) dated 1805 shows us the torii and the crowd in the shops around it. The shrine is dedicated to the gods of success, longevity and happy marriages and it is worth visiting in all seasons: in spring for the great festival with its sumo wrestling tournament for youngsters, in summer for the lanterns festival, in autumn for the superb red foliage or in winter for the roofs covered with pristine snow.

After Takamiya, the road runs along the new main national roads passing through shopping malls and pachinko parlours (Pachinko is a mechanical game made of a vertical pinball machine into which players fire a large number of small balls). The old road wanders through the paddy fields and the next station is reached after 8km/5mi of a very nice walk.