Kisokaidô: Odai - Station 21

Utagawa Hiroshige - Series of the 69 stations of the Kisokaido: Station Odai (22th print) (Odai)

(Edition done in 1950's by Kyoto Hanga-in under the supervision of Narazaki Muneshige, the most faithful to the first edition)

Instead of representing this small station, Hiroshige chose to depict a family of pilgrims crossing a stream on the Kanai moor. They are clad in the white robes of pilgrims over their indigo cotton robes and wearing wide sedge hats. As the mother nestles a baby to her breast, she is followed by her son carrying a ladle for scooping up purified water and her bearded husband carrying a rucksack. On the other side, a traveller is waiting to cross the stream. He holds a banner testifying to his religious purpose, which is to raise funds for the main hall of the Ise Shrine, the Great Sacred Temple on the South coast. Covered in pampa grass, the sparse countryside is represented in autumn indicated by a single red-leafed maple tree growing in the centre of the composition.

There were little variations on this print apart from the blue gradation in the stream.

(Source: The 69 stations of the Kisokaido, Sebastian Izzard, Brazillier 2008)

And now?

Odai was one of the smallest stations also nicknamed “Hime-no-yodo” (stage for princess). When a feudal Lord travelled with his retinue, they were lodged at Oiwake (the previous station) and the women of his household were segregated here in less comfortable amenities. In 1843, there was one honjin, one waki-honjin and only five inns. The honjin built in 1756 is the subject of Nishijima’s print. Today, the economic activities moved to Miyota, close to the railway station and the main road. Odai sees little traffic, with the occasional walker or biker on the old Nakasendo road, photographing the old buildings and trying to capture the atmosphere of Japan’s past.

Odai: Nakasendo road through the village

Odai: An old house built in 1841

Odai: Hoshu-in temple

Odai: Tower bell of Hoshu-in temple with its thatched roof

Nishijima Katsuyuki - Series of the Kisokaido - Odai