Kisokaidô: Sakamoto - Station 17

Utagawa Hiroshige - Series of the 69 étapes of the Kisokaido: Station Sakamoto (18th print) (Sakamoto)

© Trustees of the British Museum

There were two major checkpoints on the Kisokaido road: At Usui and at Kiso-Fukushima and two smaller ones at Fuwa (Sekigahara and Ausaka (Otsu). The purposes of these checkpoints were to ensure that the Daimyo’s wives which were held hostages in Edo did not escape, to ensure that no firearms were imported or smuggled and to check on people such as peasants which were not supposed to leave their village or their clan’s territory. Sakamoto was just before the first checkpoint located at the Usui-pass. The Usui-pass at 1200m or 4,000ft is the first difficulty of the itinerary. It was an important station with two honjin, two waki-honjin and 40 inns where the travelers could rest before the ascension or before the crossing of the long Kanto plain towards Edo. Eisen chose to depict the main street in early morning with a channeled stream running through the centre and the roadside with bustling shops and inns. Beyond looms Mt.Haneishi and a range of mountains appears in the right background as the rosy pink dawn rises.

This print is never signed. As with the Itahana print, the drawing appears to be in Eisen’s hand while the title is written with Hiroshige’s script. It is thought to have been left incomplete by Eisen and finished by Hiroshige. This hypothesis is most likely as not a single print of this station with Hoeido seal is known to exist. In the early printing, an extra block is used on the mountain to exaggerate its steepness and roughness, the sky is rose with a blue gradation. In latter printing, the surface of the mountain lacks the extra block and appears smooth. The sky is printed blue with no pink and the scene is rendered as night instead of dawn.

(Source: The 69 stations of the Kisokaido, Sebastian Izzard, Brazillier 2008)

Usui-toge Pass in "Kisoji Meisho Zue" or Illustrated album of the famous places along the Kiso road (1805)

Usui-toge Pass, ca. 1890

And now ?

Matsumoto is a small town now and the stream has been covered. But the structure of the station is still visible. One of the honjin has been converted into a primary school and the gate of the other one is still standing. The main building of the checkpoint is gone, but the gate is still present. In the direction of Usui-pass, the Kagiya Inn which was used as a waki-honjin, is now a restaurant, but the buildings at the pass which could be seen on this 1890 picture (above right) have disappeared.. Beyond the pass, the road has now become just a narrow path wandering through the forest.

The Kisokaido at the entrance of Sakamoto with Mt.Haneishi in the background

The gate of the old checkpoint

The honjin, now a school

Kagiya Inn on the way to Usui Pass

The Kisokaido near the Usui Pass

Gate of the second honjin