Kisokaidô: Takasaki - Station 13

Utagawa Hiroshige - Series of the 69 stations of the Kisokaido: Station Takasaki (14th print) (Takasaki)

© Trustees of the British Museum

Takasaki is located at the confluence of the Karasu-gawa and Usui-gawa rivers. It was the castle seat of the Matsudaira family, one of the major clans in feudal Japan, close allies of the Tokugawa family (The Tokugawa are originally a branch of the original Matsudaira clan). The land is rich and the castle was quite famous. There was also a grand temple dedicated to bodhidharma Daruma (see previous station). But Hiroshige depicts neither landmarks, choosing instead a scene at the outskirts of the station. In a teahouse, a man (1) reclines, leaning against the balustrade of a veranda over the river watching the sunset over Mt.Akagi and Mt.Haruna in the distance. A couple (2) on the road has been accosted by a beggar (3). Another one (4) runs to join them. The 1830’s saw considerable economic difficulties in the countryside after heavy rains and poor harvests and this print is unusual as it shows social interaction and problems.

There were few changes in this print, only the clothes which saw a palette change and the color gradation of the setting sun getting more orange.

(Source: The 69 stations of the Kisokaido, Sebastian Izzard, Brazillier 2008)

Takasaki - Remains of castle walls (1597)

Takasaki - Tower on external castle defences (1798)

Takasaki - Castle East Gate (vers 1680)

And now ?

The Takasaki castle was destroyed in 1871 as part of the Meiji restoration and the abolition of the clan feudal system. Only remain a tower, part of the external wall built in 1798 and a few stone blocks from the keep built in 1597 where now a hospital stands. The honjin rebuilt in 1860 and a waki-honjin are still standing as well as a few old houses. A shop, built in 1882 used the first floor as warehouse and had fire-proof shutters as seen in the picture below. Takasaki is now a large city which has grown from absorbing the surrounding villages and stations. It is known for its Daruma dolls (see previous station Kuragano). But in 1955, this was still very rural as can be seen on Kawase Hasui’s print below.

Takasaki - Honjin

Takasaki - Chaya honjin

Takasaki - Inside Chaya honjin

Takasaki - Shop dated 1882 (Note the fireproof shutters)

Daruma de Takasaki

Aerial view of Takasaki (2009)

Kawase Hasui - Kawahara, Gunma Prefecture, near Takasaki (1955)